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Ok im tired of this battery light need some intense help here..

fordman302 said:
Ok just tested the mega fuse and never droped below 14volts when reving high..
Tested the battery and same thing..Im unable to get under the car but it should be the same reading at the first lead into the Megafuse coming right off ALT right and thats where i tested.
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should be fine.... maybe it's not the electrical system then...?
 
fordman302 said:
Maybe then what else could it be?
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fordman302 said:
Ok just tested the mega fuse and never droped below 14volts when reving high..
Tested the battery and same thing...
Click to expand...

stocksvtcontour said:
So your battery light is on, well read this:

First thing you do is test your battery..............

Battery test first : Engine off, headlights on for one minute. Voltage across battery terminals should be 12 to 12.5.
http://
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Maybe a bad battery. How old is it?
http://www.contour.org/ceg-vb/showthread.php?t=3535
 
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Let me start as if I just read your original post.

1) Test battery
2) Test alternator
(both using the method prescribed in the how to in the M&M how to)
3) Check all connectors. At the megafuse ends, battery clamps, Fuse 5 (change Fuse 5 just for grins), Fog lamps, altenator.
4) Check all ground straps (especially the one which goes under the battery tray).
5) Check wiring harness for chaffing or kinks.
6) You may want to consider doing the wiring fix by goldentour.
 
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Tony2005 said:
Let me start as if I just read your original post.

1) Test battery
2) Test alternator
(both using the method prescribed in the how to in the M&M how to)
3) Check all connectors. At the megafuse ends, battery clamps, Fuse 5 (change Fuse 5 just for grins), Fog lamps, altenator.
4) Check all ground straps (especially the one which goes under the battery tray).
5) Check wiring harness for chaffing or kinks.
6) You may want to consider doing the wiring fix by goldentour.
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Everything as been checked here..I will be going and looking at the Fuses tho in a second..Altho my Dash lights and Fog lights work but i will still check them to Double check everything.
 
Ok just checked fuses everything is fine..Altho i didnt see where the Foglamp fuse was at..Anyways rev the car up slowly while in N and no battery light came on around 6K..Now when i drive it will come on as early as 4250..
Is this due to the load on the car?..
 
The high rpm problem is caused by chatter in the brushes. It will not show up since it's happening too fast for the gauge to respond. If you have a scope you can look at the output and see if it's breaking up. You might also be able to see some sign of it if you have a true AC voltmeter that will respont to the voltage fluctuations not the steady state value.
 
Alittle high tech there are we?..Im not that smart now come on..I have a Multi meter
I guess when i get the ALT i just purchased from bagged i'll throw it in and see what happens..I just like to pin point the problem so i know..
 
Not too high tech. The brushes are the things that make the electrical connection with the part of the Alt that rotates. They are pieces of graphite like a big pencil lead that press in on copper rings on the part that rotates. When the rotating part really gets going the vibration makes the contact intermittent. this causes the alt to blink off momentarily (like for .01 sec). The gauge in the car can't respond to the short drop so you don't see it. Most meters have an AC and a DC setting. If you set it on DC and measure the battery with the car not running if you have a true AC meter it will show zero. If that's the case you can then crank it up and look for an increase in AC volts when the RPM get high and the light turns on.
 
correct me if i am wrong, but iirc according to ford, the svt alt is rated to have higher amps than the alternator of the regular contour.. if the reman alternators we buy from advance and other auto stores are not from a svt, but their database/system does not distinguish between the two, could that be part of the problem?
 
8000RPM said:
correct me if i am wrong, but iirc according to ford, the svt alt is rated to have higher amps than the alternator of the regular contour.....?
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Don't remember reading that anywhere. Can you post the thread or citation? Thanks.
 
well, when i had my problems with the light (which i still do, but i'am so sick of it, so i just ignore it) i spent some time researching and throubleshooting and what not. and there was a local stelership, where the guy at the service dept claimed that the svt alt was rated at 20amps higher than the regular contour's alt. iirc they were also different price... but that was at least two years ago, that's why i am a 100% sure about it. maybe someone can check with another dealership - compare the specs of the the two alts, assuming they are different part numbers. and if that's the case, the chances are that the reman units from advanced would have come from a regular contour.
but maybe i am wrong....
 
Tony2005 said:
Don't remember reading that anywhere. Can you post the thread or citation? Thanks.
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The contour 2.5 alternators were designed for no more than 6400 rpms. Since we rev to 6800 we over rev the alternator obviously resulting in a shorter life span.

Fordman302 its your alternator. Replace it with a ford alternator and call it a day.
 
hi

hi

fordman302 said:
IIRC this one was 130AMP.
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something is wrong with new alternator current regulator (it is in the alternator), or probably diodes. As most of the time when an alternator dies it is because of brush shortening ( I assume that this was the matter with your old alternator) so
try this
Remove the brushs from new alternator and put them on the old one, put that on the car if it works then you can even open it change the bearing, ( if it is needed, you can just get an idea by turning the alternator in hand by listening to the noise there should be almost no noise from good bearings) .
 
Harrry said:
The contour 2.5 alternators were designed for no more than 6400 rpms. Since we rev to 6800 we over rev the alternator obviously resulting in a shorter life span.

Fordman302 its your alternator. Replace it with a ford alternator and call it a day.
Click to expand...

Im replaceing with it with a OEM that Bagged is sending me..This makes sense to me..But my battery light was coming on way to early 4250 in 1st 2nd 3rd..
 
fordman302 said:
Im replaceing with it with a OEM that Bagged is sending me..This makes sense to me..But my battery light was coming on way to early 4250 in 1st 2nd 3rd..
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Thats because its life got taken real early.:crazy: . So we just recommend sticking with what works. Ford/motorcraft parts.

Now for the light kicking in, well Its just letting you know that it can not keep up with the amperage needed from 4250+ rpms. Resulting in the battery to feed the remaining energy.
In return, making the battery light scream help i am dieing. When in all honesty it isn't its just getting drained real fast which kinda scares him lol.

Everything should work fine when bags alternator reaches you:laugh:
 
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