Taasman
CEG'er
Anyone have a solution to remove the egr valve. I had two wrenches one on the valve and one on the tube....And I can,t get the thing to budge. If I had a torch...I would heat it up....but I dont have one.
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removng egr valve
- Thread starter Taasman
- Start date
rollinstylee
Hard-core CEG'er
Engine? I don't know where the valve is on a Zetec or if it is any different from a Duratec...
Assuming Duratec, you shouldn't need two wrenches and I don't know where you're putting the one you say is on the valve. You only need one on the tube. It's a threaded sleeve that slides on the tube and threads onto the valve. Put the appropriate sized open-end or adjustable wrench on it (I don't know the size because I used an adjustable) and loosen the fitting. You'll be pulling towards yourself standing on the driver's side. You may need to remove the IAC valve to get the wrench on the EGR tube, but that is very easy. The EGR valve itself should still be bolted to the UIM until you loosen it from the tube. If it's not budging, spray it well with PB Blaster and let that sit for a couple hours and then try again, use more leverage if needed. When reassembling, use anti-seize on the threads! High-temp anti-seize if available since this is an exhaust component. Good luck.
Assuming Duratec, you shouldn't need two wrenches and I don't know where you're putting the one you say is on the valve. You only need one on the tube. It's a threaded sleeve that slides on the tube and threads onto the valve. Put the appropriate sized open-end or adjustable wrench on it (I don't know the size because I used an adjustable) and loosen the fitting. You'll be pulling towards yourself standing on the driver's side. You may need to remove the IAC valve to get the wrench on the EGR tube, but that is very easy. The EGR valve itself should still be bolted to the UIM until you loosen it from the tube. If it's not budging, spray it well with PB Blaster and let that sit for a couple hours and then try again, use more leverage if needed. When reassembling, use anti-seize on the threads! High-temp anti-seize if available since this is an exhaust component. Good luck.
Anyone have a solution to remove the egr valve. I had two wrenches one on the valve and one on the tube....And I can,t get the thing to budge. If I had a torch...I would heat it up....but I dont have one.
The easier way to do it is to take out the tube from under the spark plug coil housing and remove it with the whole tube (from the headers). I had to wiggle the crap out of the egr tube to get it out. Not positive on this , but if you're planning on replacing it Autozone's egr valve comes with the tube. The part that sucks is removing the other tube that goes into the intake manifold.
rollinstylee
Hard-core CEG'er
Ok after seeing other posts by the OP, I'm guessing he is in fact asking about a Duratec. Judging by your sig, your advice is based on a Zetec, as I hope you're not suggesting that dropping the Y-pipe, pulling off the DPFE hoses, disconnecting the EGR tube from the rear bank manifold, and pulling the entire tube out is easier than spraying the connection with a penetrant. :help:The easier way to do it is to take out the tube from under the spark plug coil housing and remove it with the whole tube (from the headers). I had to wiggle the crap out of the egr tube to get it out. Not positive on this , but if you're planning on replacing it Autozone's egr valve comes with the tube. The part that sucks is removing the other tube that goes into the intake manifold.
Ok after seeing other posts by the OP, I'm guessing he is in fact asking about a Duratec. Judging by your sig, your advice is based on a Zetec, as I hope you're not suggesting that dropping the Y-pipe, pulling off the DPFE hoses, disconnecting the EGR tube from the rear bank manifold, and pulling the entire tube out is easier than spraying the connection with a penetrant. :help:
Yeah on a Duratec I have no idea. If it is on a Zetec i couldn't get the egr tube out so I disconected it from the headers.(ended up removing the egr valve with the tube). It also gave me a change to clean the tube.
Taasman
CEG'er
Sorry for not clarifying...its a 2.5 litre. I took the EGR off the plenum and it does have a flat spot to place a wrench on to hold it...and I used another wrench on the nut that fits into the EGR....that thing was solid. The reason I unbolted it from the plenum was I was putting so much pressure on it that I was frightened I would rip a chunk out of the aluminum and break the whole EGR off the plenum. Im also worried about damaging the tube itself, and I could not see where the other end of the tube went to. But really I was reefing on it and that nut that threads into the EGR casting wont move. I have the new EGR ready to go on....but it comes with no tube, so I need to get the old one unscrewed.
rollinstylee
Hard-core CEG'er
Ok thanks for clarifying...I figured the only reason you'd try to loosen it without the valve bolted to the UIM was for the exact reason you said, risk of damaging the aluminum UIM if you're really wailing on that thing. Without a very careful application of a torch, I'd say give the PB Blaster (or if unavailable, Liquid Wrench) a shot. Never underestimate the freeing power of a good penetrant spray. I've twisted out corroded broken bolts after using the stuff. Unfortunately, if you can't get it loose from the top, your chances of having luck getting the bottom loose where it connects to the exhaust manifold are even slimmer due to the limited space to get leverage on it.
Definitely hit it with a penetrant and let it sit for a while, then just give it your all. Difficulties like this give you a real appreciation for anti-seize lubricants.
Definitely hit it with a penetrant and let it sit for a while, then just give it your all. Difficulties like this give you a real appreciation for anti-seize lubricants.
twocontours
CEG'er
Sometime an impulse is better than a slow strain. If you're sure you have a good grip with the wrench try tapping with a hammer. The impulse of steel on steel can sometime break it loose.