• Welcome to the Contour Enthusiasts Group, the best resource for the Ford Contour and Mercury Mystique.

    You can register to join the community.

Help an old gal out, Please???

melba

New CEG'er
Joined
Sep 21, 2005
Messages
10
I have a 1995 Contour SE (V6) with an automatic transmission. It has about 99K miles on it. I live in California.

My Check Engine Light has been coming on and off for a few years. I was forced into retirement (layed off) so I'm not driving it very much. Maybe 500-1000 miles a year. I read in my owners mannual that it had to do with emissions and so I did not worry about it too much until I had to have my car smog tested. It has passed the smog test twice.

In October the car stopped moving and I was told it was the transmission. I debated with myself on whether I should put so much money into this old car but I do like the car. It is so comfortable for me and fun to drive, so I had the transmission rebuilt and it is still under warranty. I noticed after the re-build that I could feel when the car changed gears. Prior to the re-build, it changed gears so smoothly that I never even felt it.

Last week when I was driving on the freeway, traffic came to a stop. I was on an incline and when we started to go again I noticed that my car did not want to. I had to give it extra gas to get it going. It seemed fine once it got going. When I got home and tried to go up the driveway, the same thing happened. Basically the car is running sluggish, especially from a stopped position. I immediately thought it was the transmission. I took it back to the transmission shop and the man told me that he suspected it was a clogged catalytic converter. A few hours later he calls me and says he's getting a EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) error and it will cost $300-$700. I decided to get a second opinion. My son has a friend who is a mechanic and he said the EGR wouldn't make the car act like that. It must be the catalytic converter. Bring the car to his shop, it will cost $300-$700. His shop is 15 miles away and I was not convinced that it was the catalytic converter and so I took it to a near-by muffler shop. The man at the muffler shop could not get the codes out of my car and so he did a pressure check (I think). He put a hole in the exhaust system and then he welded it back up when he was finished. He said the catalytic converter seemed fine and he suspected a fuel problem. I called another friend of my son's who works on cars and he has changed the fuel filter but it did not help. He thinks the tranny is bad.

So what do you guys think? What should I test or change next and in what order?

Thanks sooooo much for any help you can give!

Melba
 
When was the last time the tranny fluid was changed?

Put in 2nd Gear, and drive. If the symptoms are the same, then it is not the tranny. If it works well with 2nd Gear, then it is an auto tranny problem.

Sometimes, it could be dirty fluid or low fluid.

Drive to Autozone or Advance and have them scan for Check Engine Light codes. This is a free service. Then post the exact codes here and we will go from there.
 
this service is not free in California, for the record. Just make sure to do as Tony said and post the EXACT CODES (not a description, or what the autozone clerk SAYS is the problem)

Also, just saw you had a 1995. This year had OBD-I (vice OBD-II), and cannot be scanned at Autozone, etc.

you can do it for free, though, by going to www.contour.org, clicking on "faq", then "common problems". Then under "engine" find the link with the CEL(Check engine light) codes listed, as well as the method to test your codes for free with nothing more than a paper clip.. (here is the link, to speed you up.. but navigate there manually, to learn where this info is.. its got a TON of info there..)
 
When was the last time the tranny fluid was changed?

Put in 2nd Gear, and drive. If the symptoms are the same, then it is not the tranny. If it works well with 2nd Gear, then it is an auto tranny problem.

Sometimes, it could be dirty fluid or low fluid.

Drive to Autozone or Advance and have them scan for Check Engine Light codes. This is a free service. Then post the exact codes here and we will go from there.


Hi Tony, Thanks for the reply.

The tranny fluid was changed when I had the tranny re-built in October. The fluid is clean and full.

I didn't quite understand your tranny test:
"Put in 2nd Gear, and drive. If the symptoms are the same, then it is not the tranny. If it works well with 2nd Gear, then it is an auto tranny problem."

I am in California and from what I've read, Autozone does not do the testing for codes here. I've never heard of Advance. Anybody know a place in California that will check the codes for me for free?
 
Hi Ray, Thanks for the reply.

I did find that self test but frankly it's pretty much greek to me. I've showed it to my friend James (who changed my fuel filter) but he thinks the codes were probably cleared by the transmission shop after they read them. James is going to check out the EGR stuff and if it seems good he thinks I should take it back to the transmission shop.
 
What now?

What now?

1. This did turn out to be the transmission. Tranny shop had my car for 3 weeks rebuilding it again. Reason it took so long was they wanted to make sure they got it right this time, mechanic out sick, etc. When I picked up my car the owner of the shop tells me 'oh by the way the air bag light is on". I checked with my friend James since he was the one driving the car when the tranny went completely out and he assured me that the air bag light was not on. After doing some research we have concluded that it is the clockspring and the mechanic is accepting responsibliity for it. They ordered the new part and said it was okay to drive the car.

2. The tranny shop has now hired my friend James.

3. But now I have a new problem with this car!!! While driving it the other night we stopped at a traffic light. The car died, put it in P and tried to start it. It would not start and it would not shift into neutral. Windshield wipers went on, speedometer moved up and down, dash lights came on. If it did start, it would die again if we tried to go and the windshield wipers and dash lights would come on. A nice bystander stopped and offered to help. He said he was a disel mechanic. We finally got it into neutral and were able to push it out of the street. Disel mechanic thought the wires on the wiring harness that goes to the intake manifold were touching so we found some duck tape and he tried to fix it. Didn't work. We had to walk home. When we went back to the car the next day the doors would not open. I have an electronic door opener but even with the regular key the doors would not open. Had to crawl through the trunk into the car to finally get the door to open. We bought it a new battery but it still hasn't helped. Had the car towed home last night. The tow truck driver messed around with it some and got it to start and got it into neutral. I tried to start it again last night. It wouldn't start but some of the dash lights came on and stayed on even after I turned it off and removed the key. Disconnected the battery so as not to drain it.
Anybody have any idea what could be wrong with this car. Could it have anything to do with the tranny re-build or bad clockspring?

Thanks!
Melba
 
I'm going to have to go w/ shorting wires. (ala the randomly moving/on electrical things.) Its got to be some kind of major wire though to trip up all the things your describing.

for future reference: To get the car into neutral though (when the engine isn't on) you need to pry open the case around the shifter and push down a spring loaded white rod on the right side of the shifter that prevents it from moving.

oh and the car doors should open w/o the battery in the car, the locks must've been forcing themselves closed. (unless remote entry locks are significantly different from regular power locks)
 
Battery is bad OR Alternator not charging battery. If the battery is old (5 or more years), most likely cause. The low voltage makes the car's devices act weird. When I got my Mystique the wipers came on and the engine wouldn't start, because of the weak battery.
 
Yes... I would start by looking in to the battery and/or alternator. Is there any chance that the "airbag" light could actually be the "system charge" light? It would seem to correlate with your problems.


Charge the battery.

Test the voltage at the battery terminals when the car is running:

It should be ~13.7-14.2 volts DC. If not., suspect alternator, or "mega-fuse" or wiring.

Turn the car off, turn the headlights ON for 60 seconds
Test the battery voltage at the battery terminals.

It should be 12.0 Volts DC or higher. if not, suspect battery.
 
Then do the test, and confirm that the alternator is outputting the correct voltage, would be all I can suggest at this point, until that is done..
 
Hi Ray, didn't see your post before I replyed. Yes, it is the air bag light. James wrote SRS Ind. light on my paper work from tranny shop. It gave a code of 3...2. The horn and cruise control also did not work. I'll have someone test the alternator.

Thankss!
Melba
 
Yes... I would start by looking in to the battery and/or alternator. Is there any chance that the "airbag" light could actually be the "system charge" light? It would seem to correlate with your problems.
the airbag light can come on as a result of undervolting. (as well as abs, and probably others.) but as far as i know the only light that officially correlates to power is the battery light.

at this point i'd say the most likely culprit is the alternator. (seeing as the battery is new, and it doesn't seem to be a short since nothing's fried really)

Possibly the mega fuse though, so look into that too.
 
Last edited:
Hi Ray, didn't see your post before I replyed. Yes, it is the air bag light. James wrote SRS Ind. light on my paper work from tranny shop. It gave a code of 3...2. The horn and cruise control also did not work. I'll have someone test the alternator.

Thankss!
Melba
Change the clockspring a.k.a. airbag sliding contact.
http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1b/d5/e5/0900823d801bd5e5/repairInfoPages.htm

http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1b/ce/fd/0900823d801bcefd/repairInfoPages.htm

Picture.
http://www.contour.org/ceg-vb/showthread.php?t=2958&highlight=clockspring
 
Last edited:
my 2 cents

my 2 cents

just an observation. that duct tape conducts electricity, i would take it off and rewrap it with super 66+ electrical tape and do the same on all of the harness connected wires. dub
 
Tony2005, The Transmission shop is supposed to do this repair when I can get my car going again to get it over there.

Your second link said:
"The clock spring assembly is located in the steering column, behind the steering wheel. The function of the clock spring assembly is to keep the electrical connection intact while the steering wheel is rotated while the driver is turning the wheel to steer the vehicle."

Do you think this is why my car is doing crazy electrical things? Should I just have my car towed over there and have them fix this?


 
This car has more problems than a math book. Mostly due to incompetent "mechanics"

This car has been good to me up until the tranny went out and I had it re-built. Tranny going out was probably my fault as I never had the fluid changed :-(
 
Back
Top