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Diagnostics 96 Contour GL

Dustin

New CEG'er
Joined
Apr 3, 2007
Messages
14
I hooked up a diagnostic computer to my 96 Zetec GL Contour, no codes were there. I did the whole OBDII drive, and still nothing. But, it still drives like crap. No power and runs rich (it did tell me that much!) and eats the fuel big time.

I've replaced the MAF, spark plug wires, spark plugs, changed the oil, filter, air filter, coolant, fuel filter. I replaced the MAF after cleaning it, because I thought it was bad (unplugged it and the engine ran better), but now not so sure. I haven't checked the PCV valve yet, as the weather has been crappy.

But, I've got the raw details on the engine. I cannot find what normal is supposed to be. Any help? Thanks!

At 800 RPM Idle (stays around that, but idles rough):

O2 sensor 1/1 volts: 0.31 - 0.67
Spark Advance: 28 Degree (at 2172 RPM is goes to 36 adv)
Engine Load: 41.2% (drops to 37% at 2172 RPM)
Fuel System Status Bank 1: Closed
"" Bank 2: Disabled
Intake Air Temp: 68 Degrees
Long Term FTBank 1: 1.6%
MAF 2.97 g/s (at 2172 RPM goes to 17.10 g/s)
O2 Sensor 1/2: 0.91 volts
STFT Bank 1 Sensor 1: 23%
STFT Bank 1 Sensor 2: 99.2%
 
The voltage from your O2 sensor is too high which. That could be either creating the rich condition from being fouled or be a result of it. My money would be that it is causing the rich condition and rough idle.
 
I have the same problem with my 96 you are having. I have changed and replaced many parts including both o2 sensors and still have not fixed the problem. Hopefully you might get the problem solved and post it.
 
The voltage from your O2 sensor is too high which. That could be either creating the rich condition from being fouled or be a result of it. My money would be that it is causing the rich condition and rough idle.
Boss, putting that new scanner and information to good use, eh? Thank you. You The Man!
 
The voltage from your O2 sensor is too high which. That could be either creating the rich condition from being fouled or be a result of it. My money would be that it is causing the rich condition and rough idle.


O2 readings go from .1-.9 volts. stoich is .450 his O2 sensor appears to be good from the data but it could be switching to slow. also his LTFT is at 1.6% its trying to add fuel. he should reset the PCM and see if that helps. my guess is that he lready replaced the bad part but never reset the PCM so its still trying to correct for the bad part that is no longer there.

If your talking about the downstream O2 thats cause hes running too rich. the downstream O2 does not tell the PCM how the car is running only the catylist efficency.
 
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O2 Sensor 1/2: 0.91 volts


If his O2 sensor is switching slow and giving a high voltage, would that not mean it is bad? If it is producing a signal that high all the time, then that would be a problem.

Unless the O2 sensor hadn't come up to full operating temp, 600F, when the test was done or was done at WOT which bypasses the sensor.



Did you replace the MAF with a new or reman unit?

Something else you should check as well is for any vac leaks. I've seen in other forums where that has happened to people.
 
O2 Sensor 1/2: 0.91 volts


If his O2 sensor is switching slow and giving a high voltage, would that not mean it is bad? If it is producing a signal that high all the time, then that would be a problem.


Thats the downstream O2 (bank1/sensor2). its not supposed to switch fast or even at all really. the reason its so high is cause hes running rich as seen by his Long Term Fuel Trim (LTFT).
 
Thanks for the advice guys.

I replaced the MAF with a NAPA remanufactured (it was a Ford labeled part, though). I unplugged the battery for ~15 minutes to reset the PCM afterwards. Not finding any vacuum leaks or leaks after the MAF.

Is there a way to test if the O2 sensor is bad, other than replacing it? :)

And the Zetec is a bit underpowered, but its a great car. Usually runs really good. Respect the Zetec... Ok... At least give it a Special Olympics type of respect.

I'll look into the O2 sensor and see if that's the problem. :)
 
underpowered? mine does 0-60 in about 7.5-8.0 sec.(i know its nothing to brag about but for a contour its not bad) of course the MTX helps that alot.

as for your problem i dont think the downstream O2 sensor is causing it but that doesnt mean its not bad. the PCM thinks the car is running lean so its trying to add fuel that it doesnt really need. you could have an exhaust leak before the upstream O2 sensor. that would make it read lean even though its not.
 
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as for your problem i dont think the downstream O2 sensor is causing it but that doesnt mean its not bad. the PCM thinks the car is running lean so its trying to add fuel that it doesnt really need. you could have an exhaust leak before the upstream O2 sensor. that would make it read lean even though its not.

Cracked exhaust manifold? Just a small crack? Would that do it? I've got one of those. That is probably the problem. An exhaust patch kit should fix it up, right?

Thanks a lot for the help!

And it's underpowered to some other cars. Mine's all stock right now, and an automatic (bleh...)
 
I'm thinking it may be a vacuum leak. I can drive and hear a sqeaking noise. And when it shifts with a load, it has to get to a high RPM before shifting. I was thinking it was a vacuum leak, but where does the vacuum line go into the transmission? I'm waiting for the car to cool down right now, just repaired the exhaust leak and went for a drive.
 
under high load (WOT) it wont shift till almost redline. thats normal.

if its running rich its not a vacuum leak. you would be running lean with a vacuum leak as it would be sucking in unmeasured air.

your ignition timing is way off. it should be around -5 (5 degrees retarded) at hot idle and about +15 (15 degrees advanced) at about 2000RPM. the question is why. also the MAF is reading too high. it should be down around ~.4g/s at idle and it should never even hit 17g/s (i dont even hit that at WOT and 6500RPM)

were those readings taken in P/N or in gear?
 
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