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Weird?

Yeah I made sure that they were all torqued correctly. The problem was because the two of the cam caps got mixed up and were placed in incorrect places. All the cam caps are fine now and it all spins just fine. Now just to find that stupid oil leak. Big Jim, the only problem is that I have header wrap on my headers so putting any kind of liquid on them will just make the problem worse.
 
DyComet said:
Yeah I made sure that they were all torqued correctly. The problem was because the two of the cam caps got mixed up and were placed in incorrect places. All the cam caps are fine now and it all spins just fine. Now just to find that stupid oil leak. Big Jim, the only problem is that I have header wrap on my headers so putting any kind of liquid on them will just make the problem worse.
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It will take a long time to stop the smoke if you got oil in the header wrap if you just sit there and idle it. Believe me!

I hope you don't live in the middle of town, but the best way to get it to stop is to take it out and drive it, get the exhaust nice and hot like cruising on the highway and just let it burn off.
A nice 65mph cruise on the highway or 30-60min should do most of it and you won't have peoplehonking at you as if your car would burn up. :laugh:
 
Yup header wrap is definately a pain when you get oil on it. I have really grown to hate it for that reason. The car seems like it's always smoking after I had an oil line come off and dump a few qts out. :blackeye:
 
warmonger said:
It will take a long time to stop the smoke if you got oil in the header wrap if you just sit there and idle it. Believe me!

I hope you don't live in the middle of town, but the best way to get it to stop is to take it out and drive it, get the exhaust nice and hot like cruising on the highway and just let it burn off.
A nice 65mph cruise on the highway or 30-60min should do most of it and you won't have peoplehonking at you as if your car would burn up. :laugh:
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Damn contour owners and there spewing cars....stay out of Blue Ash!!!!!!


J/k looks like your getting close, take it down 22/3 (montgomery rd). That gets out into the farm area where there is little traffic and you can cruise.
 
Very good, just what I wanted to hear. Luckily it's not smoking that bad so I should be alright. I have to bleed the clutch again but besides that its ready to drive, oh, and while I'm here, is there a big difference between throttle pedal locations in the SE and the SVT because I installed the SVT throttle cable today and there is much more play in the line and the pedal sits lower than the brake and the clutch. Is there a way to adjust it?
 
Got it out on the road today, and good lord, 2.5L non SVT < 3L FTMFW!!!! Anyway, it all runs ok except the idle sits around 3k until the car comes to a complete stop. Also the clutch is mushy as hell, does it get stiffer as you break it in?
 
Yes, the clutch system was bled properly. I even re-bled it to ensure that it was done correctly. It doesn't feel bad I just expected a SPEC III to feel a lot stiffer than it does now.
 
DyComet said:
Yes, the clutch system was bled properly. I even re-bled it to ensure that it was done correctly. It doesn't feel bad I just expected a SPEC III to feel a lot stiffer than it does now.
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Yes, I figured that you did. I had to ask anyways because sometimes with all that's done to rebuild and swap the engines we forget the simple things. My current problem is that I cannot get the trans to bolt up to the engine. I suspect that my it has to do with the end of the crankshaft. The 3L appears to have somekind of bushing pressed into the end of the crank that the 2.5L motor didn't have.
 
Wow I come back to read the post and I see the problem was what I told you it probably was. The reason the cams caps are not interchangable is that they cast the blocks then they sit the heads in a jig on their side they take a long drill that is so centerlined and drill straight down where the cam gears are. So therefore the heads cast on the outer shell are slightly different in the thousands where that can throw of the hole by mics. So to find a excat caps is almost impossible. You would have to bolt a cap to another half moon peice of metal and redrill the hole out .002 over and then refinish it. Like Tom said the oil pressure will be less if you were to measure that oil port but the cams do not need as much oil pressure as rods etc.

Hope this makes people mark their caps when they take them off and ALWAYS place the cams in the heads without lifters and spin them with prelube when torqued before installing Best insurance you can imagine and what you really should have done is plastic guage every cap rod when builing the motor the plasitc guage is like $2 but time most people do not give.

Well I am glad to see you have it running now have fun with it. Joey
 
ctmystique said:
Yes, I figured that you did. I had to ask anyways because sometimes with all that's done to rebuild and swap the engines we forget the simple things. My current problem is that I cannot get the trans to bolt up to the engine. I suspect that my it has to do with the end of the crankshaft. The 3L appears to have somekind of bushing pressed into the end of the crank that the 2.5L motor didn't have.
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You have to shave that piece of metal on the end of the crankshaft off until it is completely flush with the engine. The tranny will not fit on unless this is done.
 
Got another 100 miles on it today. I figured out that part of the idle problem is that I stripped out the bottom bolt on my IAC like an idiot and that is creating a vac. leak. I'll pull the UIM and tap the hole so I get it on there. Also, for some reason my secondaries keep getting stuck open so that's creating some problems in lower RPMs. But besides those two little things, it runs just fine and good lord do I love this thing.
 
DyComet said:
You have to shave that piece of metal on the end of the crankshaft off until it is completely flush with the engine. The tranny will not fit on unless this is done.
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I understand what you mean but how did you do it. Mine appears to be a very substantial piece of metal, not a thin cap or anything. I suppose I could use a cut off wheel in my handheld grinder.
 
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I understand that you were expecting a stiffer feel from the stage 3 clutch but Spec uses the same pressure plate on all of their clutch kits so you only have a more aggressive disc than say a stage 1 kit. Its easy to push in the pedal but still grabs hard :cool:
 
Redlineracer12 said:
I understand that you were expecting a stiffer feel from the stage 3 clutch but Spec uses the same pressure plate on all of their clutch kits so you only have a more aggressive disc than say a stage 1 kit. Its easy to push in the pedal but still grabs hard :cool:
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Yeah I understand what you're saying. I also read a post a while back by beyondloadedSE about his SPEC III and he said it stiffened up as it broke in. I have already started to notice this 130 miles into the break in so I think everything is going to be alright with this.
 
ctmystique said:
I understand what you mean but how did you do it. Mine appears to be a very substantial piece of metal, not a thin cap or anything. I suppose I could use a cut off wheel in my handheld grinder.
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Yeah it is not a little thin piece that needs to come off. I used a handheld grinder to get mine off then ensured it was completely flush with a dremel and a smaller cutting piece. After you're done removing it, be sure to remove all metal shaving that may be left because you don't want that crap to start getting in your clutch.
 
just take the bushing out it took me 5 minutes to get mine out , probably takes forever to cut that damn thing off
 
Ok, started the car up this morning and the oil light was on for about 3 seconds and then I immediately shut off the car. I started the car up again and by the time the engine turned on the oil light was off and engine was running fine. Why am I having oiling problems already? I really don't want to spin a rod bearing.
 
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