JustTodd
New CEG'er
My car originally came with the 14" steelies which weren't terrible, but swapped to the 15" 8 spoke alloys from the parts car. I saw the offset was greater on the alloys and used those lugs. The alloys are also likely thicker. However, the stud lacks about one thread from coming flush with the outside of the lug nut. I worry the lugs will loosen without longer studs.
Does anyone know if the stud length was longer on cars equipped with alloys? Or the length? The thread is the same. Are the lug studs pressed in? Any experiences to share?
I've checked them periodically with a torque wrench and they stayed tight. However, last week after I rotated the tires I had a local shop re-balance the (new) fronts as I had a noticeable shimmy. The re-balancing didn't help much, btw. I just pulled the fronts to replace the front end links and had to use a long breaker bar to remove the lugs. I actually sheared a 1/2 to 3/8 adapter in the process. Dunno what he torqued them to, but any more would've surely sheared the damned studs. I was lucky I didn't shear them removing the lugs.
Anyway, I hadn't thought much about the stud length until this. Although the shop never mentioned any concerns about stud length and/or possible loosening, I'm guessing the tech over-tightened to try to compensate? They've worked on the car several times for tires, alignment, balancing etc.
Finally, if you're running the original steel wheels and want to see just how good your suspension can be, try to find a set of used OEM 15" alloys. The wider stance from the increased offset, and to a lesser degree the larger diameter, really open the suspension and allow it to work as designed. I think the cheapie steelies keep the suspension in a state of bind, mainly due to the narrow offseet. If you don't use OEM's, I'd stay with that offset. My car didn't just feel better, it felt like a different car.
If anyone knows the offset of each, that'd be great information.
All input appreciated.
Does anyone know if the stud length was longer on cars equipped with alloys? Or the length? The thread is the same. Are the lug studs pressed in? Any experiences to share?
I've checked them periodically with a torque wrench and they stayed tight. However, last week after I rotated the tires I had a local shop re-balance the (new) fronts as I had a noticeable shimmy. The re-balancing didn't help much, btw. I just pulled the fronts to replace the front end links and had to use a long breaker bar to remove the lugs. I actually sheared a 1/2 to 3/8 adapter in the process. Dunno what he torqued them to, but any more would've surely sheared the damned studs. I was lucky I didn't shear them removing the lugs.
Anyway, I hadn't thought much about the stud length until this. Although the shop never mentioned any concerns about stud length and/or possible loosening, I'm guessing the tech over-tightened to try to compensate? They've worked on the car several times for tires, alignment, balancing etc.
Finally, if you're running the original steel wheels and want to see just how good your suspension can be, try to find a set of used OEM 15" alloys. The wider stance from the increased offset, and to a lesser degree the larger diameter, really open the suspension and allow it to work as designed. I think the cheapie steelies keep the suspension in a state of bind, mainly due to the narrow offseet. If you don't use OEM's, I'd stay with that offset. My car didn't just feel better, it felt like a different car.
If anyone knows the offset of each, that'd be great information.
All input appreciated.