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What else needs to be done?

N

Nerd2

CEG'er
Joined
Oct 24, 2007
Messages
35
Right - so the (NON-SVT) car's in the garage now, ready to fit with:

3L Engine, ported heads, 19lb injectors
SVT LIM,UIM, TB, Flywheel
4 paddle clutch
MSDS Exhaust Headers

My question is, what other mods should I do now, while the engine's out?

Thanks,
Sam
 
If you haven't got plans for a tune, get with Nautilus Performance. Running 19 lb injectors in a car thats tuned for 17 lb, will cause your car to rune rich.

Why are you going so overboard on the clutch? Unless your going FI later on, I have a feeling your really not going to like the driveability of what I'm assuming to be a SPEC Stage 3 clutch? At least from my experience with SPECs 6 puck clutch, its made to withstand high tq numbers while sacrificing essential things like easing into the clutch which is a must for quick 60' times, quick shifting (again, on/off engagement forces you to stay out of the gas longer). You have to wait until the clutch is fully depressed to get back into the gas.
 
I am a bit worried about the clutch too - but its coming all together with the block and fwheel off someone who prepped for the job but has pulled out.

I want driveability, what clutch would you recommend? I'm assuming reusing the 140kmiles original is not a good idea.

Tune = yes. :)
 
Either get a new OEM SVT clutch or a SPEC stage 1. If you buy a new SPEC, make sure they sent you the correct throw out bearing. They are bad about sending zetec throw out bearings. Some people just buy a new TOB from Ford just to make sure.
 
Cool, thanks for your help.

Can you think of anything else on or off my list I need to be thinking about? :)
 
Nerd2 said:
The 3L's brand new, do I still need new bearings?
Click to expand...

Brand new as in you bought it from the dealership or low mileage? If you bought new from the dealership, I would say no. If you bought it from a junkyard, then I would recommend it. Lots of people get a relatively low mileage 3.0L, swap it in, and 50 miles later...tick tick tick. There goes a bearing.
 
Sort of half way in between. Its been through a few peoples hands, but never put in a car. Never tasted gas or oil.

Someone along the line has had the heads ported.

The current plan is to leave it mainly intact.
(its a ST220 engine)
 
Nerd2 said:
Sort of half way in between. Its been through a few peoples hands, but never put in a car. Never tasted gas or oil.

Someone along the line has had the heads ported.

The current plan is to leave it mainly intact.
(its a ST220 engine)
Click to expand...

Well, if it has 0 miles, then you'll probably be alright.

Btw, are you from the UK or from the US?
 
LSD? You're gonna want to get rid of that weak diff, as it will be a major weak link after that power is added, and trust me, you don't want to put it all back together, drive it for a week, and then have to take it all the way apart again.
 
If you're going to put headers on the car, you're better off doing it with the motor out!
 
DanMyers said:
LSD? You're gonna want to get rid of that weak diff, as it will be a major weak link after that power is added, and trust me, you don't want to put it all back together, drive it for a week, and then have to take it all the way apart again.
Click to expand...

I'd kind of closed my eyes about the diff, hoping it would magically become better. I have no idea about diffs, where to source, how hard they are to fit etc

HolyRollerzC3 said:
If you're going to put headers on the car, you're better off doing it with the motor out!
Click to expand...

Yep, that's being done :)
 
Well my friend, it's time to open your eyes and lose some money, Torsens are discontinued (I believe) but you can sometimes find them on e-bay or in the classifieds, Quaife is pretty much your only source for a brand new one, which www.ultrarev.com seems to have a fair price on them (somewhere around $800 IIRC) but whichever you go with GET ONE! Definitely a must have if you don't want to pull the tranny again, it'll save you money in the long run.
 
FYI, a four-puck clutch is going to chatter and have harsh engagement. I think that a Kevlar clutch would be well suited, which I don't see widely used in the CSVT community. A 3.0L engine isn't going to produce nearly enough power to hurt a kevlar clutch like this, and this engages smooth like OEM style yet has a definite bite.

FYI: Kevlar clutches are hugely popular in the Probe, 626 and MX6 crowd. Boosted KLs (Mazda 2.5L) with ~300whp/wtq run just fine on these. When I upgrade my csvt clutch, which feels like a cheap dyno-wtf $50 clutch from Autozoe, I'll definitely use Kevlar.
 
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