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Warmonger brake info/install thread

Are you talking about the single caliper slide pin/bolt on the rear? Those things are a pain to put in if you have teh park brake cable on when you install them. I find it easier to unhook the cable form the lever, depress the metal clips and then remove the cable first than to leave it hooked up while attempting to line that bolt up due to the pressure from the cable.

Also, you guys will want to pop loose the cables by depressing the little tabs and let the cable lay free. The caliper angle is changed and the cable sheath may pop loose if you don't.
 
Yea thats the one. The problem is that it is so stripped out that I cannot remove it. I would rather not totally destroy it, until I have a replacement. The hardware store near me didn't have anything that would work. I'll try and expand my search tomorrow, but I forsee myself having to go to a scrap yard for it.
 
OK, I have one small problem. The sheath (sp?) for the drivers side parking brake cable does not like to stay in the retainer cup where it meets the caliper. It doesnt cause any problems, but I cant think of a good way to get it to stay put. Do you think if I move the attachment point on the trailing arm it might help? Ive already moved it forward a good amount.

I suppose I can live with it if it keeps happening. Ill be sure to cover it in grease to keep water out if I cant get it to stay put.
 
OK, I have one small problem. The sheath (sp?) for the drivers side parking brake cable does not like to stay in the retainer cup where it meets the caliper. It doesnt cause any problems, but I cant think of a good way to get it to stay put. Do you think if I move the attachment point on the trailing arm it might help? Ive already moved it forward a good amount.

I suppose I can live with it if it keeps happening. Ill be sure to cover it in grease to keep water out if I cant get it to stay put.

Like I said, you need to leave it OUT. Pop the metal fitting that goes on the end of the cable loose form the mount it has on the caliper and leave it in there at an angle. This does not hurt anything and prevents the plastic sheath from separating from the metal fitting.
 
Oh, I must have missed that. Sorry. So the "cup" as Ive called it is still on the cable (on the sheath end), and free of the caliper? Ill check that out this weekend. Hell, maybe Ill get a chance to get my car on the lift tomorrow and do it without removing the wheels :cool:
 
My local junkyards are devoid of contours or cougars with rear disks. I've been too busy for the last two weeks to really do anything else with it. Everything is all prepped and ready to be put on, so as soon as I get that silly bolt I'll be in business.

With just the front done I'm loving the extra braking power. It has saved me a few times, the most notable being, doing about 70 on the highway and entering a construction zone. Someone decided they couldn't see the cones blocking the road so pulled in front of the car ahead of me going around 25. I stopped with room to spare although the land rover LR3 behind me had to go into the median. Which brings me to the only problem I have had so far. After that stop the rotor started rubbing the bracket. I got home and took it apart and it seemed that the adapter bracket shifted a bit. I positioned it back to where it didn't rub and tightened it down to about 40 ft/lbs, hasn't happened since.

I'll give you an update when I finally get the rears on.
Thank you again Tom!!!
 
Does anyone know what the littlest wheel will fit over these brakes? Like maybe a 16 in Fpcus wheel? If I decide to get a set of slicks or drag slicks?
 
Hey guys, i am having a local shop put my rear brackets in seeing i am doing rear drum to disc conversion at the same time. i was hoping for a definitive list of things that i need to have them do or problems that people have had come across when installing the rears. any and all help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks. Matt
 
Any issues with the rears are well documented in the instructions.

Im somewhat surprised you found a shop that would be willing to install these. Seems a little bit "too custom" (if you know what I mean) for them to touch b/c of liability issues.
 
it is the same shop that put my wilwoods on the front...so they are pretty familar with my car. the instructions i have seen dont come out right when i go to view them...therefore i was asking the groups seeing most of you have already done this. anyway thanks for the help.
 
I just want to know if anybody doesn't want to go through the hassle of installing these? I will gladly take the kit off of anyone that doesn't want it! Shoot me a PM!
 
I installed the rear kits yesterday and thought I would pass on some observations.

A reasonable option to opening up the hat area of the rotor to fit over the hub is to reduce the size of the hub. Since I started enlarging the hat diameter before realizing this option, I ended up doing a combination of both. I think the best answer is doing the hub by itself. I used the same drum sander for the hub as I did for the rotor, and spun the hub by hand while applying the drum sander to maintain concentricity. There is less area on the edge of the hub and it takes less time to reduce it compared to increasing the rotor hat diameter. If I had access to an on the car brake lathe I would investigate rigging it to make this cut. Also if I had access to a machine shop I would investigate machining the hat (just like a miniture brake drum) slightly oversized.

When enlarging the factory caliper slot to accomodate the thicker rotor, I used a grinding wheel similar to the way that Warmonger pictured in the how to. I used a 9" wheel. It was hard to hold the piece. If I were to do this again, I would either try to find a less agressive cutting wheel or find a way to reduce the speed. The wheel cuts very agressively, and would be easier to control if it was either a bit slower or if the wheel were less agressive.

If I had access to a mill in a machine shop I most certainly would have preferred cutting this out instead of grinding it. It would be more precise and much easier to control.

But it is finally done and it looks great. I havn't driven it enough for the pads to seat into the rotors yet so I still need to reserve judgement on how much it helps, but even now the brakes are more agressive than with the large fronts only.

I lost a little pedal firmness which I mostly atribute to the bads not yet bedding in, however I will be bleeding / flushing the system once the rears have had a chance to settle in.

Not only does the car stop much better than it did with stock brakes, it looks more like the high performance car it really is with the larger rotors front and rear.

I mentioned the machine shop options for anyone that does have such access. In my earlier hot rodding days one of my best friends family owned a machine shop and we were able to perform some small projects of this nature after hours or on weekends. I would love to have such access now, but time moves on and friendships drift away.

War, thanks again for seeing this through.

PS I forgot to mention that I ground enough away from the nuckle that I have room to slip a box end wrench over the upper retaining bolt.
 
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Sounds Great. I'm glad to hear that if people just take their time the rears will go together nicely. I kept shaking my head thinking "...this isn't that hard..." but wondering if I overestimated the difficulty for the mainstream.

Thanks for the report Jim. I'll be looking forward to your full review after the rear pads bed in.
 
A partial update. Pedal has improved but I think I can get it up a bit more with bleeding (not done yet).

When the larger fronts were first installed, I reported that in my subjective opinion braking was improved about 15% to 20%. With the larger rears it has improved some more, however the biggest improvement is that the brakes seem more stable. I feel that I have better control when braking in turns.

I'll report again after I've bled the brakes.
 
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