Turbo list

[whodoescare]

ok so i am getting more and more anxious to save up the money and buy a turbo from nautilus for my svt. i was just wondering if anyone had a list of mods i would need to do, approx how much it would cost, and how much time to do them. things such as battery relocation, clutch replacement, etc. the cost of the turbo is high for my income, i need to know how much additional money ill need to put into it in order for it to be useful.
also, what are most of the guys here running? the .63 ar midrange power or the .82 ar topend power? master power, precision, or turbonetics? and whats the difference of each?
im not that experienced with cars so forgive me
also the tune. is the mail order one good or would i have to go to a place with a dyno?

 

[beyondloadedSE]

Not sure how crazy your going or what your power goals are, but I'll assume you'll get the 275 whp kit and do full installation of everything yourself, just to make this easy. Hopefully, you have the revised pistons in your motor (late 99 to 2000). I ran the .63 on my 3.0L with the ADC kit and could have made 400 whp, but its really up to you. With a 2.5L, you could probably get 350 whp out of a .63 but not with the base NPG kit. The .82 will definitely make 400 whp on the top of the line NPG turbo kit.

This is what I would consider bare essentials:
NPG Turbo Kit + Turbonetics upgrade - $3150
X-CAL 2 - $380
Battery Relocation and wiring - $100
MSDS Headers and y-pipe - $700
Aftermarket Catback or Custom Exhaust - $600
SPEC Stage 3+ clutch - $450
SPEC flywheel - $350
Quaife LSD - $800
Driveshaftshop Stage 2 Axles - $700
DMD - $80
Larger brakes - $400+
----------------------------------
$7710

If paying someone to install your turbo kit, clutch, lsd, etc expect about another $1500 ($9,200 total) just to be safe.

If your shooting for 400 whp, then you'll need the upgraded NPG turbo kit. FWIW, nobody has hit 400 whp on a stock bottom end 2.5L. It might be possible, so I'm not including the upgraded rods and pistons although it would be wise to get them.
NPG Turbo Kit + Turbonetics upgrade - $3525
X-CAL 2 - $380
Battery Relocation and wiring - $100
Lightning 80 mm MAF -$100
MSDS Headers and y-pipe - $700
Aftermarket Catback or Custom Exhaust - $600
SPEC Stage 3+ clutch - $450
SPEC flywheel - $350
Quaife LSD - $800
Driveshaftshop Stage 2 Axles - $700
DMD - $80
Baer brakes or equivalent - $850
Guages and gauge pod - $300
----------------------------------
$8935

Again, if your paying someone else to do it, expect at least $1500 ($10,435 total)

If your going for your all out turbo build not skipping anything.....
NPG Turbo Kit + Turbonetics upgrade - $3525
Pauter Rods/Diamond Pistons - $2000
Battery Relocation and wiring - $100
65mm throttle body - $50
Max Extrude Honed UIM - $300
X-CAL 2 - $380
PNP Heads/ST220 Valve Springs from Kinger -$1500
Lightning 80 mm MAF -$100
MSDS Headers and y-pipe - $700
Aftermarket Catback or Custom Exhaust - $600
SPEC Stage 3+ clutch - $450
SPEC flywheel - $350
Quaife LSD/Post 2000 shift forks/zetec final drive - $1500
Walbro 255 lph fuel pump - $100
Driveshaftshop Stage 3 Axles - $1000+
Pole120 Roll Resistors - $200
DMD - $80
Baer brakes or equivalent - $850
Guages and gauge pod - $300
----------------------------------
$14085 (or $15585 with labor)

I'm sure this is low for every one of them. Obviously, there are things you'll run into that you'll need like gaskets and such. I'm assuming you won't be installing clutch, flywheel, LSD yourself. If you are, you will need an engine puller which is more money. If you had all the parts ready to go and were able to complete this without any snags, you could probably do the 1st option in a weekend with some help. Realistically, it will be down for a 2 weeks minimum. Nothing ever goes as planned as I've found out. Bolts breaks or are rusted on, gotta buy replacement parts Saturday night and you have to wait until they open again on Monday, etc.

NPG mail order tune will be more than sufficient.

 

[BAD SVT]

Not sure how crazy your going or what your power goals are, but I'll assume you'll get the 275 whp kit and do full installation of everything yourself, just to make this easy. Hopefully, you have the revised pistons in your motor (late 99 to 2000). I ran the .63 on my 3.0L with the ADC kit and could have made 400 whp, but its really up to you. With a 2.5L, you could probably get 350 whp out of a .63 but not with the base NPG kit. The .82 will definitely make 400 whp on the top of the line NPG turbo kit.

This is what I would consider bare essentials:
NPG Turbo Kit + Turbonetics upgrade - $3150
X-CAL 2 - $380
Battery Relocation and wiring - $100
MSDS Headers and y-pipe - $700
Aftermarket Catback or Custom Exhaust - $600
SPEC Stage 3+ clutch - $450
SPEC flywheel - $350
Quaife LSD - $800
Driveshaftshop Stage 2 Axles - $700
DMD - $80
Larger brakes - $400+
----------------------------------
$7710

If paying someone to install your turbo kit, clutch, lsd, etc expect about another $1500 ($9,200 total) just to be safe.

If your shooting for 400 whp, then you'll need the upgraded ADC turbo kit
NPG Turbo Kit + Turbonetics upgrade - $3525
X-CAL 2 - $380
Battery Relocation and wiring - $100
Lightning 80 mm MAF -$100
MSDS Headers and y-pipe - $700
Aftermarket Catback or Custom Exhaust - $600
SPEC Stage 3+ clutch - $450
SPEC flywheel - $350
Quaife LSD - $800
Driveshaftshop Stage 2 Axles - $700
DMD - $80
Baer brakes or equivalent - $850
Guages and gauge pod - $300
----------------------------------
$8935

Again, if your paying someone else to do it, expect at least $1500 ($10,435 total)

If your going for your all out turbo build not skipping anything.....
NPG Turbo Kit + Turbonetics upgrade - $3525
Pauter Rods/Diamond Pistons - $2000
Battery Relocation and wiring - $100
65mm throttle body - $50
Max Extrude Honed UIM - $300
X-CAL 2 - $380
PNP Heads/ST220 Valve Springs from Kinger -$1500
Lightning 80 mm MAF -$100
MSDS Headers and y-pipe - $700
Aftermarket Catback or Custom Exhaust - $600
SPEC Stage 3+ clutch - $450
SPEC flywheel - $350
Quaife LSD/Post 2000 shift forks/zetec final drive - $1500
Walbro 255 lph fuel pump - $100
Driveshaftshop Stage 3 Axles - $1000+
Pole120 Roll Resistors - $200
DMD - $80
Baer brakes or equivalent - $850
Guages and gauge pod - $300
----------------------------------
$14085 (or $15585 with labor)

I'm sure this is low for every one of them. Obviously, there are things you'll run into that you'll need like gaskets and such. I'm assuming you won't be installing clutch, flywheel, LSD yourself. If you are, you will need an engine puller which is more money. If you had all the parts ready to go and were able to complete this without any snags, you could probably do the 1st option in a weekend with some help. Realistically, it will be down for a 2 weeks minimum. Nothing ever goes as planned as I've found out. Bolts breaks or are rusted on, gotta buy replacement parts Saturday night and you have to wait until they open again on Monday, etc.

NPG mail order tune will be more than sufficient.

:shocked:...well... u pretty much covered it. and every item listed is definitely on the low end.

 

[SVT Loki]

Not sure how crazy your going or what your power goals are, but I'll assume you'll get the 275 whp kit and do full installation of everything yourself, just to make this easy. Hopefully, you have the revised pistons in your motor (late 99 to 2000). I ran the .63 on my 3.0L with the ADC kit and could have made 400 whp, but its really up to you. With a 2.5L, you could probably get 350 whp out of a .63 but not with the base NPG kit. The .82 will definitely make 400 whp on the top of the line NPG turbo kit.

This is what I would consider bare essentials:
NPG Turbo Kit + Turbonetics upgrade - $3150
X-CAL 2 - $380
Battery Relocation and wiring - $100
MSDS Headers and y-pipe - $700
Aftermarket Catback or Custom Exhaust - $600
SPEC Stage 3+ clutch - $450
SPEC flywheel - $350
Quaife LSD - $800
Driveshaftshop Stage 2 Axles - $700
DMD - $80
Larger brakes - $400+
----------------------------------
$7710

If paying someone to install your turbo kit, clutch, lsd, etc expect about another $1500 ($9,200 total) just to be safe.

If your shooting for 400 whp, then you'll need the upgraded ADC turbo kit
NPG Turbo Kit + Turbonetics upgrade - $3525
X-CAL 2 - $380
Battery Relocation and wiring - $100
Lightning 80 mm MAF -$100
MSDS Headers and y-pipe - $700
Aftermarket Catback or Custom Exhaust - $600
SPEC Stage 3+ clutch - $450
SPEC flywheel - $350
Quaife LSD - $800
Driveshaftshop Stage 2 Axles - $700
DMD - $80
Baer brakes or equivalent - $850
Guages and gauge pod - $300
----------------------------------
$8935

Again, if your paying someone else to do it, expect at least $1500 ($10,435 total)

If your going for your all out turbo build not skipping anything.....
NPG Turbo Kit + Turbonetics upgrade - $3525
Pauter Rods/Diamond Pistons - $2000
Battery Relocation and wiring - $100
65mm throttle body - $50
Max Extrude Honed UIM - $300
X-CAL 2 - $380
PNP Heads/ST220 Valve Springs from Kinger -$1500
Lightning 80 mm MAF -$100
MSDS Headers and y-pipe - $700
Aftermarket Catback or Custom Exhaust - $600
SPEC Stage 3+ clutch - $450
SPEC flywheel - $350
Quaife LSD/Post 2000 shift forks/zetec final drive - $1500
Walbro 255 lph fuel pump - $100
Driveshaftshop Stage 3 Axles - $1000+
Pole120 Roll Resistors - $200
DMD - $80
Baer brakes or equivalent - $850
Guages and gauge pod - $300
----------------------------------
$14085 (or $15585 with labor)

I'm sure this is low for every one of them. Obviously, there are things you'll run into that you'll need like gaskets and such. I'm assuming you won't be installing clutch, flywheel, LSD yourself. If you are, you will need an engine puller which is more money. If you had all the parts ready to go and were able to complete this without any snags, you could probably do the 1st option in a weekend with some help. Realistically, it will be down for a 2 weeks minimum. Nothing ever goes as planned as I've found out. Bolts breaks or are rusted on, gotta buy replacement parts Saturday night and you have to wait until they open again on Monday, etc.

NPG mail order tune will be more than sufficient.

I vote Sticky

 

[BurritaSVT]

one revision no y-pipe needed or even precats can be ran remember I dynoed at 280whp with stock precats not gutted. JOey

 

[CSVT_2004]

I vote Sticky

Agreed

 

[whodoescare]

wow! let me just say that i agree with the sticky part. i didnt expect to get such detailed info lol.
i was gonna aim for the 300-350hp one and have a close friend help install. i already have the headers ypipe and catback, and larger brakes dont seem absolutely nessesary right away as mine stop from high speeds pretty well as is so i could atleast put that off i think.
also what would running stock axles and LSD do? would my car fall apart? also i have a 98 so i guess from your info i dont have revised pistons, so should i just forget about the whole thing since i basically have more important things in life to spend money on? lol i can deal with ~$4k but too much higher and i think itd be better if i just settle for new wheels to hold me over and perhaps until i get a better job

my goal was to aim for 300-350hp, even 300 at the wheels is perfectly fine for me, i dont think i need 400 haha i want to live longer

thanks once more for the info

 

[BAD SVT]

wow! let me just say that i agree with the sticky part. i didnt expect to get such detailed info lol.
i was gonna aim for the 300-350hp one and have a close friend help install. i already have the headers ypipe and catback, and larger brakes dont seem absolutely nessesary right away as mine stop from high speeds pretty well as is so i could atleast put that off i think.
also what would running stock axles and LSD do? would my car fall apart? also i have a 98 so i guess from your info i dont have revised pistons, so should i just forget about the whole thing since i basically have more important things in life to spend money on? lol i can deal with ~$4k but too much higher and i think itd be better if i just settle for new wheels to hold me over and perhaps until i get a better job

my goal was to aim for 300-350hp, even 300 at the wheels is perfectly fine for me, i dont think i need 400 haha i want to live longer

thanks once more for the info

you're right. if u drive like a sane person, you dont need bigger brakes till further down the road. i just bought a set of baer brakes after having my turbo for about 6months. stock axles are fine unless u're an aggressive driver ALL THE TIME. i have stock axles and a quaife. from experience, unless u punish the car, it should be fine. oh, u're getting a 3L. you're not gonna use the 98 pistons:laugh:. 400whp is not usable nor practical. we fi'd guys already have hard time as it is with over 300whp getting traction. as for the price? well... 4k is only gonna get u the kit and maybe an lsd. thats it.

 

[beyondloadedSE]

wow! let me just say that i agree with the sticky part. i didnt expect to get such detailed info lol.
i was gonna aim for the 300-350hp one and have a close friend help install. i already have the headers ypipe and catback, and larger brakes dont seem absolutely nessesary right away as mine stop from high speeds pretty well as is so i could atleast put that off i think.
also what would running stock axles and LSD do? would my car fall apart? also i have a 98 so i guess from your info i dont have revised pistons, so should i just forget about the whole thing since i basically have more important things in life to spend money on? lol i can deal with ~$4k but too much higher and i think itd be better if i just settle for new wheels to hold me over and perhaps until i get a better job

my goal was to aim for 300-350hp, even 300 at the wheels is perfectly fine for me, i dont think i need 400 haha i want to live longer

thanks once more for the info

You could get by with the stock axles, but the stock differential will blow for sure with that much power. Stock 2.5Ls blow the stock differential all the time. A quaife or torsen LSD is a must!

Yes, you have the unrevised pistons. You could probably run about 7 psi safely and be alright. However, to get about 300 whp with your 2.5L, I'd say you'll probably be blowing a ringland with the amount of boost to achieve that power level.

 

[whodoescare]

NPG Turbo Kit + Turbonetics upgrade - $3525
Battery Relocation and wiring - $100
X-CAL 2 - $380 (possibly a few weeks of driving cant hurt with stock tune)
SPEC Stage 3+ clutch - $450 (after mine starts to go bad)
SPEC flywheel - $350 (a little down the road?)
Quaife LSD - $800

so if i got all that (with parenthesis stuff comming afterwards as my income allows) i would be fine? or is it a much simpler process to buy the 2100$ kit and upgrade as i can afford?

$4425 right away
$1180 a month or 2 later :shrug:

the more i think about it the more the base kit fits my situation. as getting the basic thing installed would be nice, then adding one thing at a time.

and no, i am not getting a 3L lol! this is my DD and the engine install process is just too much for me (and even more money) lol, which is why im going with the turbo because its the best bang for the $

edit. i forgot about what you said with the pistons... dangit! so thats an expensive process isnt it? one more reason to settle for less, god doesnt want me spending my money!

 

[BAD SVT]

NPG Turbo Kit + Turbonetics upgrade - $3525
Battery Relocation and wiring - $100
X-CAL 2 - $380 (possibly a few weeks of driving cant hurt with stock tune)
SPEC Stage 3+ clutch - $450 (after mine starts to go bad)
SPEC flywheel - $350 (a little down the road?)
Quaife LSD - $800

so if i got all that (with parenthesis stuff comming afterwards as my income allows) i would be fine? or is it a much simpler process to buy the 2100$ kit and upgrade as i can afford?

$4425 right away
$1180 a month or 2 later :shrug:

the more i think about it the more the base kit fits my situation. as getting the basic thing installed would be nice, then adding one thing at a time.

and no, i am not getting a 3L lol! this is my DD and the engine install process is just too much for me (and even more money) lol, which is why im going with the turbo because its the best bang for the $

edit. i forgot about what you said with the pistons... dangit! so thats an expensive process isnt it? one more reason to settle for less, god doesnt want me spending my money!

ma bad. i thought u were getting a 3l:laugh:. honestly a base kit isn't bad at all. u get a nice increase in power. what is it, like 260 crank. it just comes without an intercooler iirc. simply cos u'll be running low boost pressure. that can always be increased as time passes. As for the pistons, its been shown that our pistons can handle quite a bit of power. iirc, the base kit keeps you at 5psi. my advice is, dont rush things. map out exactly how u're gonna go about this. it'll save u some heartache later by not just rushing and puttn sumthn together.

 

[whodoescare]

5psi isnt bad, its more than the 3.5psi advertised on the site, and 260hp is 65 more than what i have now . yeah i plan on taking my time, its a lot of money to waste and i dont wanna ruin my car by going halfway with things. not to mention i dont NEED any of this, so it can wait i just get anxious as if its the night before christmas and i really wanna open my presents lol

thanks again everyone for all the info, i think i should just go with the base kit and then i should be able to keep stock everything, plus i might just be satisfied with that and not feel the need to upgrade

bad svt: you are welcome to buy me a 3l at anytime:laugh:

 

[Livinsvt]

Flywheel and DSS axles are not needed so you can subtract from the list. But you can add machine work and assembly to the rods and pistons portion.

 

[Blackcoog]

FYI installing a differential as listed above is a must and if you aren't doing it yourself expect to pay $500-$700+ for a shop to install it.

Other things to keep in mind:
-Stock fuel pump is gone after about 300whp so you need a walbro pump for your return fuel system car. Expect about $200 for that plus install if you don't do it.
-Stock MAF is good to about 320whp so you need to pick up a 80 or 90mm F150 Lightning MAF (1999-2004) which has a wider range. You could find one used for a decent price ($100) online if you search. The kicker here is that you need a tune if you switch MAF's. You can't run without a tune if you switch MAF's so expect to pay $500 for a tune at a dyno shop. If you can do it now get the lightning MAF and make sure the base tune you get in the mail is setup for that new MAF. It will save you money later.

Oh and I wouldn't do this if this is your daily driver. While I'm sure people will tell you the car drives perfectly fine with there turbo/supercharger any time you add this much more hp you have to expect things are going to break. You need to have a back up car.

 

[whodoescare]

Oh and I wouldn't do this if this is your daily driver. While I'm sure people will tell you the car drives perfectly fine with there turbo/supercharger any time you add this much more hp you have to expect things are going to break. You need to have a back up car.

what if i stick with a lower kit, and try and make it about 75hp more? i always hear people saying 75 shots of nitrous are the perfect amount so that shouldnt change that much with a turbo, besides the fact . and its not like ill be romping on the gas 24/7 either.

only time will tell with what i decide, maybe by then the supercharger will be complete, maybe i wont have the urge to spend money.. who knows lol

oh any btw my stimulus check will be withheld and put towards school loans so i wont even see that $600

 

[Redlineracer12]

I like Blackcoog's advice on the daily driver.

I will add that if you are installing a Torsen/Quaife Differential at the time you install the turbo (you probably should unless you want to drive like a grandma ), you should also replace your clutch (and flywheel if you want a lighter one) at that time. Waiting a month or two would mean pulling the transmission or engine twice.

I bet you could hit ~260 crank hp with nitrous if you just wanted to have fun once in a while.

 

[111R]

ok so i am getting more and more anxious to save up the money and buy a turbo from nautilus for my svt. i was just wondering if anyone had a list of mods i would need to do, approx how much it would cost, and how much time to do them. things such as battery relocation, clutch replacement, etc. the cost of the turbo is high for my income, i need to know how much additional money ill need to put into it in order for it to be useful.
also, what are most of the guys here running? the .63 ar midrange power or the .82 ar topend power? master power, precision, or turbonetics? and whats the difference of each?
im not that experienced with cars so forgive me
also the tune. is the mail order one good or would i have to go to a place with a dyno?

while i agree with everything that is said, if you don't want to spend tons of money on modifications... why not do what i did.

my car was stock motor wise as of 95K miles or so. original clutch, flywheel, the lot...

i have changed no mechanical components other then gaskets prior to install. i have driven my car daily over 4000 miles and even on ty cali gas i achieve about 22/24 while on boost every drive;. i do NOT baby the car after buying the kit because its so much damn fun.

i have the stage I NPG kit. with NPG tune was the best combination possible. i am using 7psi every single day; drive at least 50 miles/day to/from work. my car has over 100K miles and drives better then the day i bought it with 30K miles.

please view my cardomain if you want specific's on what i have changed such as pole's roll resistors, ps/alt pulleys, and WR headers. i don't see why, if your car is in tip-top shape, you cannot use a entirely stock contour svt.

 

[Pope]

I must agree with Blackcoog, playing with the daily driver is a gamble. You might get lucky like 111R and not encounter any problems or you could have the luck I have had with my Mustang.

Round 1
Stock Block
Forged rotating assembly (crank, rods, pistons)
GT40P Heads
Explorer Intake
Felpro gaskets
ARP Head bolts
Garrett T4 7-8psi

Lifted head and blew HG at ~4 miles into 5 mile loop around neighborhood. (first 5 miles on engine)

Round 2
Replaced HG
Replaced ARP head bolts with ARP head studs

Broke engine block at about 500 mile mark, which came as a surprise since the factory blocks usually live until HP reaches a point commonly requiring double digit boost pressures.


Round 3
New Stock Block (I must like punishment)
Lower CR forged pistons (8.5:1 instead of 9.2:1)
MP T70 7-8 psi

Wiring short causes wide-open injector, complete tear-down and bearing inspection results.


Round 4
Reassembled Engine
Fixed Wiring

No oil pressure while attempting to prime for startup; in car removal of oil pump, pump inspected and working fine, intake removal reveals unsealed oil galley plug (likely result of solvent action of gasoline)


Round 5
Plug fixed
So far so good.... 200 miles on engine, unemployed, out of money, car in storage.


The point is that although you can play with your daily driver and it could work out trouble free, it might not and that is a gamble and a wager you must be willing to make. If my mustang were my daily driver I would have been in dire-straights.

 

[whodoescare]

wow that story is... well i feel sorry for you and your mustang. especially the 5mile problem. id be so angry not only the money and time it costs to repair it, the fact that basically the money used to buy the turbo was wasted as well. do you have an old foxbody? those are the coolest looking stangs imo.. anyways 1 success story and more unsuccessful ones... i might just have to go with the odds on this one. perhaps save up for a 3l turbo tour in the distant future! :crazy: im dreaming i know, we will see what i do decide

 

[fordrule]

+1 sticky info like this