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Transaxle grind, under low load.

Kresnik

CEG'er
Joined
Feb 12, 2008
Messages
212
Hey all!

I've had this scraping noise for quite a while, perhaps for as long as three years. I knew that the old clutch was bad and attributed the noise to the failing clutch, as the noise appears to be most manifested there. Recently I replaced the clutch (throwout bearing, flywheel, disc, pressure plate, everything) – and yet, I still have the same noise.

2000 CSVT, MTX, 180K Miles. Original motor and transaxle.

The noise is quite low when I have my foot on the gas pedal, while in gear. The moment that I let up on the gas (relieve the load) and keep it in gear, the noise gets really loud. If I depress the clutch or shift it into neutral, the noise is also quite low. I cannot tell if the noise is more well pronounced with speed or RPM, and the exhaust leak doesn't make it any easier. :( I notice that the noise seems to start and end when I shift it in or out of gear and can feel it in the shifter, almost as if there is something fubar in the shift-tower. Shifting in and out of third and fifth are slowly becoming more difficult, though second and fourth are pretty good – so there is a noticeable difference between 3/5 and 2/4.

I tried to capture the noise, here are two links for the videos @ youtube : http://youtu.be/sFw2j2avvcw
http://youtu.be/SnPxNmndCmE


I've inspected the wheel bearings, and even replaced the driver-side – so those are out of the question. I couldn't find anything physically touching, in regards to both the half-shafts and intermediate shaft.

The inner hub of the driver-side half-shaft was bad, as it appeared to have not been balanced well, so it didn't rotate in a perfect circle – Which was also replaced.

I miss first gear quite often, perhaps every other time. Before replacing the clutch this never happened, so I'm likely to believe that I need only to readjust the shift cable on the shift tower. The shifting mechanisms shift very smoothly by hand, so I'm hesitant to believe that the shift-tower is faulty, at least in that regard.

The other only note, which might be somewhat relevant, is that when bolting the transaxle back to the block was that the plate between the two was a pain in the ass and kept falling out of alignment. I gotta wonder if that was somehow bent up and caused this noise to be. I didn't notice any scaring on the old pressure plate or flywheel, so I'm thinking not.

Fluid has been changed a couple of times, and at the moment is running a mix of ford Honey and mobile one diesel (All I had left, :( ). I had full Ford honey before, as well as what-ever was in there before that.. and regardless of fluid, I have the same noise.

.. any thoughts or experience?
 
what ever you do I would stop driving it right now.


Do you feel any kickback in the steering wheel when this happens?


what does "loose gear mesh" even mean? the gears are all in constant contact.
 
what ever you do I would stop driving it right now.


Do you feel any kickback in the steering wheel when this happens?


what does "loose gear mesh" even mean? the gears are all in constant contact.

on mine i dont fill anything on the steering wheel but i have fill like a weird gain and lost of power on high rpm
 
what ever you do I would stop driving it right now.


Do you feel any kickback in the steering wheel when this happens?


what does "loose gear mesh" even mean? the gears are all in constant contact.

By loose gear mesh, I'd assume he means that sort of clicking that ya get when ya don't fully put the car into gear. I.e., the syncro hub doesn't fully engage the gear cluster to lock for power transfer. I only get that on first gear, though it feels as if I need to adjust the shift cable so that I can 'pull' it into gear more firmly. Third and fifth engage fine, though first gear usually shows the most wear when compared to others.
 
I hope someone can reply to this because I'm having same problem with my new trans

I read around some more, and my next plan of action is to relieve pressure on the front and rear motor mounts, jack up the motor as high as I can, then retighten the mounts. After putting my clutch in, I did notice that the mounts appear to have a LOT of play to where the through bolt can go. I've worked on a number of other cars, though I've never quite seen a mount with this much clearance to where the through bolt slides into. I don't recall seeing the hydraulic dampener on the rear side, as I did on the front, though I've seen a number of posts where people have stated that there should be one -- less I read that incorrectly.

If I notice any change in nose, then I'll invest into poly filled mounts or poly mount inserts. I put the poly mount inserts on my Probe GT, and wow, it made a HUGE difference in how little the engine rocks and how much less wheel hop I have. I'm really hoping it's *that* simple for us, just upgrading to mounts that are decent.

But whatever i do or don't find, I'll get back with everyone and update the thread accordingly. :)
 
I read around some more, and my next plan of action is to relieve pressure on the front and rear motor mounts, jack up the motor as high as I can, then retighten the mounts. After putting my clutch in, I did notice that the mounts appear to have a LOT of play to where the through bolt can go. I've worked on a number of other cars, though I've never quite seen a mount with this much clearance to where the through bolt slides into. I don't recall seeing the hydraulic dampener on the rear side, as I did on the front, though I've seen a number of posts where people have stated that there should be one -- less I read that incorrectly.

If I notice any change in nose, then I'll invest into poly filled mounts or poly mount inserts. I put the poly mount inserts on my Probe GT, and wow, it made a HUGE difference in how little the engine rocks and how much less wheel hop I have. I'm really hoping it's *that* simple for us, just upgrading to mounts that are decent.

But whatever i do or don't find, I'll get back with everyone and update the thread accordingly. :)

OK keep us post it
 
what ever you do I would stop driving it right now.


Do you feel any kickback in the steering wheel when this happens?


what does "loose gear mesh" even mean? the gears are all in constant contact.

I say this because when i uesed to run nitro r/c if the gear mesh was just a bit loose or not tight enough with my metal spur it made a similar sound... Idk the car drivres perfectly fine going on 1+ years. Maybe could be bearings, or clutch idk.
 
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