Before you go replacing it, why not see if it really even needs it? Pull the upper timing belt cover, and look at it, it should be free of cracks and fray. maybe crank the engine a couple times without starting to check several points of the belt. But if you really want/need to replace -
It is one of those tasks that seems daunting but once you do it once, it is like "is that all there is to it?"
These instructions assume the belt has not jumped and everything is still in good timing. With this method, the valve cover need not be removed.
Time consuming yes but here is what to do -
Disconnect battery.
Move that hose that is in the way of the upper belt cover.
Loosen passenger wheel lugnuts but do not remove.
Jack up the car enough to get wheel off, and remove wheel.
Remove the plastic splash guard to access the belts and such.
Remove the coolant reservoir for easier access. YOu might be albe to just set it aside without removing the coolant hoses but it must be out of the way.
have something like a jack to support the engine, don't jack it up but just have something for it to rest on, make sure and have a block of wood between the engine and jack or whatever support.
Remove the 6 bolts holding the passenger side engine mount, remove it, and the lower part of the mount. (this is why the engine needs supported.)
Make sure you have a diagram handy for the belt route. Should be on passenger strut tower. Verify the accuracy...
From the wheel well area (don't try to do it from above like I did, it is a pita), loosen the belt tensioner and remove the serpentine.
Remove the middle timing belt cover.
Once you get to the belt itself, create your own timing marks on the camshafts by placing a level across both cam sprockets and making 4 marks. Don't bother mark the belt itself as it is getting replaced. Say at the center of the sprockets,make your marks 180 degrees apart so in re-install, you know the cams are at the right points.
Somehow you are suppose to remove the crankshaft pulley to get the lower belt cover off and you will see the crank sprocket for the timing belt.
Once you DO get to the crank sprocket, mark it's relation to something stable, maybe make 3 marks inline for best accuracy, 2 on the crank sprocket, one on the stable area.
NOW it is time to remove the belt.
Loosen the center bolt on the tensioner, and turn it using an allen key (forget the size of it, maybe 6 mm?) and the belt will slide right off.
The tricky part is putting the belt on so that the timing marks you made line up correctly. The best way is to try to duplicate the previous tension between the cam sprockets and the right cam to crank.
Installation is the reverse. For free play, the belt should be able to wobble about 1/2 inch up and down between the cam sprockets.
If you do this, now would be a good time to replace the serpentine, since it is already off.
I think that is everything, I am writing this from memory of when I did it, if anyone cares to correct.
This actually isn't a horrible job to do.
Now with removing the valve cover, if you have to figure out the timing from scratch (meaning you don't have your own timing marks made) then on the driver side of the cams, there are these two slots that you stick a ruler or something about 2/10 an inch into that align the cams, but I forget how to set the crankshaft in relation to that.