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AliasJerk

Addicted CEG'er
Joined
Oct 13, 2003
Messages
8,525
I dont like buying cars that have been previously modified.

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EVERY speaker was being held in by 2 screws, and NOT on either side NO NO! both on the same side, so the speaker would flop around in the door as I drove around.. GOD! I mean, I know its easier to use the two pre-existing holes to mount aftermarket speakers, but ford puts METAL TAPPING SCREWS in the factory door speakers, YOU CAN TAP NEW HOLES IN 2 MINUTES! AAAHHHHHH!!!

So I get all other 3 doors done, get to the last door and I see what is in the below picture... Yup, factory speaker. :censored::censored::censored::censored:ty. So now I have to order two front speakers.... awesome....
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So im mildly pissed about that, I thought I had 4 nice kenwood speakers, nope, I dont. Good news is, the stock speaker is in the front door, which means NOW I have an excuse to put a component system in the front doors, :D yay!

someone suggest an inexpensive component system that I can look for.

But as a word of advice for anybody who decides to tear into their door panels, PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE put your door screws in a location where you will not loose them, all of my door panels were missing at least 2 screws, Thank god for my parts car never even being ripped in to, I had the screws I needed, but its so damn irritating.

KTHX!
 
When i did mine in the SVT, the previous owner had installed 2 sets of components. they were 6.5" held to the door by plywood. :nonono: so i installed 2 sets of these components (although i payed less than that)
 
never been a big fan of audiobahn, but that price is awesome, thanks for the suggestion!
 
AliasJerk said:
never been a big fan of audiobahn, but that price is awesome, thanks for the suggestion!
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audiobahn is terrible. I've always been happy with my phoenix golds but I think the company has been bought out since and quality has gone down the crapper. I've since kept my rear components but upgraded the mid-drivers in the front doors to 7" Vifa's and they sound great!

I think there are many on here that are happy with their Alpine components. I'd say check out some type R's or build your own components.
 
I liked my Alpine Type-R components that I had in my truck a lot. I have Infinities in the #801 car and they sound ok. They are better than stock for sure, the head unit just needs to be tuned, but I get sick of doing it every time that I disconnect my battery. The Y2K car has Alpine everything in it, but I like my Infinity with Pioneer HU setup better.
 
CarpePoon said:
audiobahn is terrible. I've always been happy with my phoenix golds but I think the company has been bought out since and quality has gone down the crapper. I've since kept my rear components but upgraded the mid-drivers in the front doors to 7" Vifa's and they sound great!

I think there are many on here that are happy with their Alpine components. I'd say check out some type R's or build your own components.
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yeah, im finding out that all of their wattage raitings and such are extremely optimistic, im looking another direction, I found a set of kickers for only like $20 more which seem a lot more promising.
 
If you can afford them, Focal's with a separate amp is the best I've heard. A set of 6x9's on a 200w amp sound like a single 10" sub. NICE!!!
 
Find someone that works at Best Buy and have them get you some Infinity Kappas....$72 a pair. 300watts peak power handling and they hit down to 40hz.
 
I work at ccity part time and can get you a deal on some stuff just lmk what you want.
 
TRicker said:
alias, they are still better than stockers. even with no screws and one of the four still stock. quit whining
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true, but annoying that it would be half ass like that.

Alias, if your gonna put components up front put 6.5 or 5.25 inchers in with a mdf adapter plate, stay away from the oval 5x7 and 6x8s as they distort midbass.
 
if you're getting components get pg rsd's .. by far best components for the month :cool:
 
AliasJerk said:
http://www.etronics.com/p-39304-ken...037363735323A313&svbname=403&bname=GoogleBase

I was thinking of doing something like that though.
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Do you have a sub to fill in the lows? Because all said and done your likely not going to be satisfied with bass in a contour no matter what you put in the doors. I dont think anybody has ever been fully satisifed using only door speakers without major modifications to the door.
That being said I think those kenwoods would be a nice choice. I had the pioneer version plate speakers once. They sounded great in my Probe before the SVT, but then as with any speaker in a contour, they sounded mediocre. If you do get them make sure you mount them tweeter down. The grill mesh on our doors only lines up with half of the speaker (thanks again Ford!). If you mount them tweeter up the tweeter is going to fire into the backside of the door panel.
 
CarpePoon said:
Do you have a sub to fill in the lows? Because all said and done your likely not going to be satisfied with bass in a contour no matter what you put in the doors. I dont think anybody has ever been fully satisifed using only door speakers without major modifications to the door.
That being said I think those kenwoods would be a nice choice. I had the pioneer version plate speakers once. They sounded great in my Probe before the SVT, but then as with any speaker in a contour, they sounded mediocre. If you do get them make sure you mount them tweeter down. The grill mesh on our doors only lines up with half of the speaker (thanks again Ford!). If you mount them tweeter up the tweeter is going to fire into the backside of the door panel.
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I tuned my sub just right to give me proper low medium and high frequency bass, it was a matter of just tuning it properly, and fixing the rattles on the interior, I have the sub setup so if I go between hip hop metal and classical music, all I have to do is adjust the level of the sub from the head unit. I can make the sub SUPER intrusive for hip hop, and in a second can make it perfectly complement double bass from metal (with proper response times). Only took me a month of fiddling with the cross over and sub level and gains on the amplifier in the trunk to get it right. its so hard to adjust a sub so it sounds right for all kinds of music, because when it finally sounds good, you close everything up, drive for a day, and find a type of music that sounds like ass, then its back to the drawing boards, finally found a group of settings that work.

Now im concerned about highs, I have a mediocre headunit (that incidently was free) but its an alpine, and the amplifier in the headunit isn't really all of that sophisticated So when I really push the tweeters in the speakers, the sound quality starts to degrade, and I have a strong feeling that it has to do with my two front speakers being odd, components will fix that issue (mostly) because of the separation boxes for the woofer and the tweeter will improve that sound quality, especially if I can get the tweeter located on the door pannel so it faces the passanger, I wont need to turn the music up so high to hear all of the specifics of the music, its why im fighting with myself to get those kenwood plate component speakers, or traditional component speakers that I can custom locate the tweeters... its not a question of "am I qualified to do it?" because I have done so many stereos, especially in contours, I can do a full proper stereo install in right under 2 hours... its a question of "do I want to spend the extra money?" because if I buy those infinity speakers, I KNOW my headunit is going to be lacking, so I will need to shop for a headunit in the near future as well, which is a bad idea for someone like myself (starting classes again sometime soon).

Lots of stuff to think about :crazy:

in terms of getting a good bass setup on the door speakers, its actually fairly attainable, but requires quite a bit of rewiring, I spoke with SoundQSVT over spring zing, he gave me a lot of great ideas... Its a matter of finding 2 low profile 4 inch subs, and putting them in the doors, then you get two foot/kick pannel speakers, wire the speakers and subs up with two separate amplifiers and tuneing accordingly (this would be a budget system, if anybody has a chance to see SoundQ's Stereo/listen to it, you NEED to, its a surreal experience, and his sound system is wired and tuned so beautifully, its literally a work of art, I was afraid to touch it) However, in doing this you would eliminate the back door speakers, if you wanted to keep those rear door speakers, you could wire up the kick pannel speakers and the rear doors to a 4 channel amplifier (and I would put a set of components in the rear as well), however, a stereo like that, properly done would be... astronomical in price, and im trying to keep my cost low to create bragable sound quality, which I think can be done.
 
get a set of decent components and run them off a small amp. If your looking for mids/highs go with a set of PG RSD 6.5s with an ATLEAST 120wrms x2 amp. At best do a full active setup with something like a 75x4.
 
If your worried about the highs, Then I think you already answered your own question by leaning towards the seperate components. Plates are a good choice if you dont want to make any modifications. I was virtually given 2 new pairs of PG 6.5 tantrums a couple years ago so I have components in all 4 doors. I couldn't be happier without building kick panels. I mounted the front tweets up in the front sail panel where the sideview mirrors mount (I think there are a few others that have done this too) It really brings out the highs and brings the soundstage up.
 
yeah the first thing i did when i installed my stereo in my tour was make a braket to hold 4 infinity 6x9.hooked those up to a 2000 watt 4 channel and man do they scream....bet thing i ever decided to do...nothing sounds better than 6x9's.imo...:shrug:
 
COLER59 said:
yeah the first thing i did when i installed my stereo in my tour was make a braket to hold 4 infinity 6x9.hooked those up to a 2000 watt 4 channel and man do they scream....bet thing i ever decided to do...nothing sounds better than 6x9's.imo...:shrug:
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2000 watt 4 channel... really? What does it actually put out? (RMS wattage)
 
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