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SVT 2.5L Opinionated Rebuild....

I

i8bugs75

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Feb 7, 2010
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ALASKA TOOK MY HEART! Livin under the northern ski
So, im getting ready to purchase my beater with a heater in order to take my 98.5 SVT motor out and do a complete rebuild. What i want to do is ask you professionals what (in your opinion) are the best/most value In replacement parts. I want this to be a NEW block by the time I'm done with it. new pistons/rods, maybe cammed? and im undecided on if im going to set myself up later for forced air. So lets think of it this way.... Give me your opinion on a built motor for forced air, and opinions on a built motor for N/A. Quick question though, with probably more to come later. I realize typically people used standard compression pistons on forced air setups. Whats the particular reason for that? Would I not be able to use my high compression pistons already in my 2.5? or stronger aftermarket h/c pistons? All in all, no matter the application, i would like it to be bulletproof inside and out, left and right, up and down, and to last for a very long time. So, what do you think?
 
Bearings are a big deal. Spare no expense in finding the best bearings you can. Beyond that, our internals are good for around 300 HP at least before they start to get overstressed so its probably not worth it to splurge on fancy pistons, rods, etc. Focus on head work and replacing our restrictive intake manifold system with something that flows better.

But seriously...keep an eye out for a 3.0. Theres no replacement for displacement. If your planning on rebuilding anyway, you might as well rebuild a 3.0...you can get one that needs to be rebuilt for super cheap if your patient and pay attention.
 
The 3L came in some my mass production cars you shouldnt have too much trouble finding one up your way. Probably going to be cheaper than rebuilding the 2.5L.

And if you are think of forced induction, you can get near 350HP to the wheels on a stock 3L block/heads/pistons.
 
mmc757 said:
Bearings are a big deal. Spare no expense in finding the best bearings you can. Beyond that, our internals are good for around 300 HP at least before they start to get overstressed so its probably not worth it to splurge on fancy pistons, rods, etc. Focus on head work and replacing our restrictive intake manifold system with something that flows better.
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It's not worth the time to find the best bearings if you don't replace the rods. The rod bearings spin on these motors because the factory rods suffer stretch fatigue. If you rebuild the motor with new bearings but reuse the old rods, the probability of spinning a bearing increases. Don't confuse the ability to withstand 300 Hp output for short periods of time with long term durability; they are two different standards of rating strength.
 
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