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shifting probs, anybody wana help look at with me? metro detroic area

M

myclodel

CEG'er
Joined
Apr 4, 2012
Messages
191
Location
Michigan
Hi, anybody in the metro detroit area that would maybe wana help check out my car with me? It has shifting probs(clutch does not slip at all) and I think its the cables or something, but I dont have tools anymore and dont really know what to do as far as the adjustment goes.

Even if you cant help fix it, if you could maybe like look at with me and point me in the right direction that would be great.

I hope it can just be adjusted and its good to go, I do have plans for this car but not really ready to pull the trans out yet, was hoping to all that this winter.

Thanx much either way everybody.

Btw, its 98 csvt
 
going to turn the wheel and check the cable ends tomorow when its light out, and look at the shifter

its hard or not able to get into gear, worse with higher rpms, can get into gear better in lower rpm, or have to turn car off and shift it.

clutch feels like i need to push a lil past the firewall to be enough

clutch has vibrations from it, that feel like they should not be there.


it was hard to drive home yesturday, used 2nd and 4th mostly
 
i would be more then happy to meet up with you and check out your car and help you figure out or fix whatever may be wrong with your car feel free to text me im about 20 minutes south of detroit.

734 -307 -9444
 
Sounds like a worn clutch disk more than likely.
If you get someone to look it over with you pull the rubber boot from around the slave line and watch in there as someone cycles the clutch, just to make sure the slave is working correctly as well.
 
Okay for sure, I'll check into that as well, and John, yeah I'de love if you could take a look at with me, are you ever out this way? Im at 15 and grosebeck,

The clutch itself does not slip or anything.
 
Okay, heres a pic I just took from under the car.

WP_000505..jpg

when I first start the car, i can drive it and it shifts okay(in lower rpms, all gears) but once i get on a lil or been driveing for a long while(hour) it gets hard to shift again,

when its hard to shift, i cant get into 1'st from a stop. however when coming to a stop if i can get it into second and downshift into 1'st im good. or turn the car off and and shift and start it back up.

Should I try bleeding the clutch? or would that not make a difference for me(if so, how do i bleed the clutch lol, ive never had a hydrolic clutch)

pedal still makes noise when i start to push it, i read that could be the TOB?


oh and also, about the same time my cruise control stoped working, and it used to work before this.


break fluid looks to be where it should.....


Thanks again for the help
 
The TOB and Slave are 1 part, you could have a problem there. Like i said before, pull the rubber boot and watch what it does as someone presses the pedal.

If you use a 1 man bleeder setup, you can crack the bleeder valve and just keep pumping the pedal until you get some good fluid out of it. Keep the catch can higher than the valve so it has to push the fluid up.
 
I will check under that rubber boot soon as I have a helper here, I hope tomorow.

Any tips for the clutch bleed providing I have another person here?
 
Okay, well I tried bleeding the clutch about 4 or 5 times, it 'seems' a lil better now, but all the way better...

i have alot of free play with pedal itself, if i grab it with my hand, i can pull it UP 2/3 inches, and puch it down a few inches as well....
so betweent up/down play i have a total about maybe 5ish inches that the pedal can freely go up and down before it gets a lil harder to push, does anybody else have free play with the pedal? or soon as you start pushing it is there pressure? also can you lift your pedal up a couple inches? or when you let go of the pedal does it go ALL the way up by itself?

I think this woudl be my prob, seeing as though it 'seems' like if i could push my pedal further, then i could shift better. and if my pedal does not do anything till halfway down, that would explain my prob, cept for how to fix it ;)

though, i did try bleeding the clutch by myself(along with some bricks to keep the pedal down, though I will try again when I have some help.


Any ideas? cable ends look okay at the trans, i can still move the shifter alot forward and backward when in gear so maybe that cable is messed as well?(the one that goes to the bottem of the shifter)

it shifts fine when the car is off, or im not moving, rpms go up, thenn 3rd is really hard, and the more i drive, the more the rest get harder as well(until the car sits for a bit)
 
damn.....it does not slip at all that much I do know, also I bought the car a few months ago and it had a new clutch put in not to long before that, so I'de hope that its good.
(though from what I read, the 'vibrations' I feel in my pedal could be the TOB?) so either way, I think the trans may have to come out.....and I have no tools anymore since I moved....lol great.

also on side note, my middle rear spark plug and wire shot out yesturday, I was able to get it back in, but it only spins a tiny it before getting loose(plug looks good, so its not the plug thats stripped) but its good for now till I can tap it(though I would like to do a 3l swap this winter, and was hoping to have the trans/shifting last until winter so I can fix/replace everything at once.

I will update at I know more, really hope the trans don't have to come out... if it does, should I pull it our from wheel well like I read about, or pull motor and trans(i do need to do rear bank o2 sensers, figured it would be easier with motor out too ;) (though i dont have the room/space/tools to pull the motor or trans)



(I am looking online and calling around for both a 3l and a 'used' trans, so if anybody local has either, plz speak up)
 
the clutch is not new in this car. also the slave cylinder is from the junkyard trans that i installed into it a few months back im fairly certain. be glad i gave this vehicle a spare set of exhaust manifolds and y pipe...this car was obnoxious when it first got dropped off...Im always glad to help out too mister!

Steve-O

ps...this is how the trans comes out!

IMGP1421.jpg


and the spit out spark plug is unfortunate. the aluminum threads for it from the cylinder head must be damaged. either use loctite red and hope for the best or have a shop install a Time-Cert thread repair sleeve into it for a permanent repair. a 3l will also cure this dilema along with taking care of the many oil leaks on this vehicle killing 2 birds with 1 stone.
 
lol how much avg ya think a shop would charge? I was just gona try to find someone with a helicoil kit and do it myself, (no threads in the hole, cant even get a 1/4 turn)

and lol, I'de LOVE to do the 3l right now, would also love to pull uim/lim and clean them out, and get rear o2 sensors, and..........

but sadly, this is very bad timing for me, and all I will be doing is getting the sparkplug hole fixed, and maybe try to track the shifting prob down.


this winter though, def gona be going 3l(also, I have had a t3/t4 turbo in the garage.....well, 2 left over my old stang, yes it was twin turboed)

and lol thanx again for fixing my car before I bought it, I can't remember what all you said was wrong with it, but the kid I got from sure didn't tell me any of this lol
 
and whats up with bagged's name signed on the motor? whats that supposed to mean?(have read i the past he does then he does work)
 
don't ever take your car to bagged or deal with him. that motor was out of my old black and tan 2k csvt i had with over 225k on the odometer when it was pulled.

still waiting to hear from you via text sense im almost never on ceg because im building my 3L. have you figured anything out on this car yet?
 
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