Roll Resistor

[jimbbski]

I have been playing around with the rear roll resistor, filling them with various urethanes. I did one for my manual V6 by filling it with 80A urethane. I found that it's to stiff. I didn't like it. i made another one using 60A urethane and I think this is a good comprimise of stiffness and noise and vibration control. I have enough 60A urethane to fill 3-4 more resistors. Cost would be $50 to clean & fill it. Shipping and core charge would be extra.

I hope to have 1-2 manual resistors ready in a couple of weeks then I can just ship to you and then you can return your old one to me. If you send me you old one first to fill turn around would be about 1 week door-to-door.

I do still have the 80A resistor that I can sell if anyone is interested. Cost would be $50 plus shipping & core charge.

I'm not doing this to make any money, just covering my costs.

PM me if interested or have questions.

 

[SVTRacer]

60A, 80A and i believe 90A have been the 3 "standard" choices I've seen around here. 60A being closest to stock, and it goes up in stiffness from there. I have 80A front and rear and i love it. I highly recommend anyone who doesn't have this modification done to do it!

 

[jimbbski]

I have received some PM's so if your still interested don't wait to long to let me know.
I have installed the 60A bushing on my own car and feel it is firmer then stock but not to the point that it's stiff or increases vibrations transfered to the body from the eng/trans.

 

[jimbbski]

I've been doing some further thinking about the rear roll resister on the manual trans. It didn't really matter before but the OEM rubber bushing is removeable. The bushing has 3 elements. The two outer round parts with holes molded in them and then an smaller oval piece in the center along with the aluminum sleeve the bolt goes through. There is a good bit of air space in the center of these bushing. That's why they are so soft even though the rubber is firm. To remove the bushing you take a screw driver or pin punch and force it into one of the holes molded in the rubber and into another hole on the other side and then against the back side of the metal ring that is pressed in on both sides to hold the bushing in place. A few wacks with a hammer and the ring should pop out. The bushing can then be removed. A wire wheel or sandpaper flap wheel will clean up the inner bore of the housing.

What I'm am thinking is to make a urethane bushing in a mold. I then remove the bushing and send it to you. Then all you have to do is swap bushings. No sending me your old roll resister or my having to get some from the pick-n-pull.

At this time I can do this only for the rear roll resister on the manual trans cars.

 

[CSVT#49]

Say what?

That bushing is not a straight piece. You must have an aftermarket one. The bushing has flanges on it to grab the rubber from the factory. You can't just place it in a urethane sleeve. You have to mold the urethane around it :nonono:

Here is a complete set, which I bead blasted clean. As you can see your not poping out that bushing on an OEM rear RR. Maybe on the front you could... but definitely not the rear.

 

[jimbbski]

I may have not explained everything. Yes I know that the center aluminum sleeve needs to be molded into the urethana. I have two of them right now that I can mold into a manual RR.
What I didn't say and didn't think that far ahead was that I would most likely need people to send me their old bushing after they receive the new one so that I can make more.
But really, I just want to make a few to use up the urethane that I have and then most likely stop.
If I wanted I could make a center bushing out of aluminum or steel with stock I have. It would be a machined and welded piece that I can then mold into the bushing in place of a stock one.

 

[jimbbski]

Looking for a couple of more people who need this done. I have one RR that I can fill and send out. I would need your old one sent back so a core charge would be part of the shipped price.

PM me with questions, etc.