bigboyricky93
Hi-Def Porn King
Right I was planning on using the 3L water pump but can I use the 3Ls wiring harness? I doubt it bc it is from a 2005 Mercury Sable engine. But it is so nice lol.
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Ricky's Stallion 3L Build!
- Thread starter bigboyricky93
- Start date
Right I was planning on using the 3L water pump but can I use the 3Ls wiring harness? I doubt it bc it is from a 2005 Mercury Sable engine. But it is so nice lol.
Blackcoog
Hard-core CEG'er
Wiring can't be used.
As mentioned, you'll strip most of the stuff off the base 3L.
bigboyricky93
Hi-Def Porn King
Ok just checking! Thanks!
bigboyricky93
Hi-Def Porn King
I would just like to say how much of a pain the extended crankshaft pulley/harmonic balancer thing is a pain to get off... I still cant get it off... and yes I am going clockwise lol.
bigboyricky93
Hi-Def Porn King
also... when facing the timing side of the engine, which way is safe to crank the engine? Is it clockwise or counter-clock wise? I know you have to spin the extended pully clockwise to get it off but is it safe to turn the crankshaft for the whole engine that way as well?
bigboyricky93
Hi-Def Porn King
haha well I got the pully off... I got fed up called my mother out and I jammed the 30" crowbar in the balancer from the front and I had her hold that in place there. Then I got my 24 inch breaker, slid a shower curtain rod over it for 40" and effectively had over 60" of leveraging power with me pushing all 230 pounds of myself downwards on the breaker.. haha smooth as butter!
bigboyricky93
Hi-Def Porn King
SOOOOO after two weeks I am back to update on my progress. I have been moving a little behind due to work, a broken a/c and shot logic board that I had to repair, and a trip to NC with a friend to visit his family. Here begins my picture story from a while back yet!
On June 13, I picked up the engine from Weber Bros. in Lebanon, PA.
So here starts my tear down and prep of my 2005 3L Mercury Sable engine on June 21st. Here is a pic with the intakes removed.
Some pics of my RH camshafts... So clean only 12k miles!
Absolute misery and hell! The 3L pulley... my attempts to get it off are documented above. Here are before and after!
And then starting today... My new favorite tool from my local Harbor Freight! only 13 dollars. It is the 46 Piece Bolt-Type Wheel Puller Set. It worked in 5 min on my harmonic balance and when I used the bolts from the kit and the nuts from my exhaust system, I also was able to pull the water pump pulley so I can swap cams and sell off the 3L stuff separate. Here is the linky for those who might be looking.. http://www.harborfreight.com/46-piece-bolt-puller-set-37824.html
And a pic of the 3L timing setup.
On June 13, I picked up the engine from Weber Bros. in Lebanon, PA.
So here starts my tear down and prep of my 2005 3L Mercury Sable engine on June 21st. Here is a pic with the intakes removed.
Some pics of my RH camshafts... So clean only 12k miles!
Absolute misery and hell! The 3L pulley... my attempts to get it off are documented above. Here are before and after!
And then starting today... My new favorite tool from my local Harbor Freight! only 13 dollars. It is the 46 Piece Bolt-Type Wheel Puller Set. It worked in 5 min on my harmonic balance and when I used the bolts from the kit and the nuts from my exhaust system, I also was able to pull the water pump pulley so I can swap cams and sell off the 3L stuff separate. Here is the linky for those who might be looking.. http://www.harborfreight.com/46-piece-bolt-puller-set-37824.html
And a pic of the 3L timing setup.
bigboyricky93
Hi-Def Porn King
And for my first major problem and/or f-up that occurred. I have an older spark plug removal tool and upon removing the center plug on the LH side, Part of the hard plastic covering on the handle broke off and fell down the oil drain back in the head and got jammed. You can see a little red.. so I got thinking!
And for some creativity on my old creativity! I had an old coat hanger I bent and folded to make into a radio DIN removal tool a while back that I keep in my tool kit. So I got a piece of gum, chewed it up, stuck it on the end and used it like a chopstick to straighten it out so it could drop into the oil pan.
Plastic chunk removed from bottom of oil pan!
Picture of removed cam caps..
Picture of LH head with cams removed
All timing removed...
RH cams removed..
And bc I am gone all day tomorrow for the 4th and all day Friday for a historical adventure to Gettysburg, I will continue on Saturday now that all the cams are removed and the valves are closed I am going to attempt my first head porting.
And for some creativity on my old creativity! I had an old coat hanger I bent and folded to make into a radio DIN removal tool a while back that I keep in my tool kit. So I got a piece of gum, chewed it up, stuck it on the end and used it like a chopstick to straighten it out so it could drop into the oil pan.
Plastic chunk removed from bottom of oil pan!
Picture of removed cam caps..
Picture of LH head with cams removed
All timing removed...
RH cams removed..
And bc I am gone all day tomorrow for the 4th and all day Friday for a historical adventure to Gettysburg, I will continue on Saturday now that all the cams are removed and the valves are closed I am going to attempt my first head porting.
solo92s10
Hard-core CEG'er
Good to see that engine finally went to good use. I highly recommend replacing all seals. That engine has been sitting for a bit like the one I got from them and when seals sit they dry up and when run again they leak. Ask how I know. Good buy though. I told many about that engine and if I had planned on keeping my first svt I would have got it. What kind of deal they give you on it? Great work so far.
bigboyricky93
Hi-Def Porn King
Thanks! And I was planning on buying the full felpro engine gasket kit. I have had good quality from them before and I can sell off the extra gaskets I don't need. I'd rather just replace them all and seal the joints with that black permatex rtv so it doesn't leak. I know I don't want to pull this engine again anytime soon!
I found this weber bros through the car part website and when I came back here I then found a thread where you recommended them and that specific engine so I decided I'd give them a shot and I was very impressed. I bought it for like 550, its the lowest they'd go, but I figured it was the closest nearby i could get quick and at that mileage it's barely broken in. They also threw in a lot of stuff they were gonna strip off it like the headers and pumps but they didn't know I can't use the headers and the other stuff. anyways so ill just sell it off to recoup some money.
bigboyricky93
Hi-Def Porn King
So quick question... Should I replace the rear main seal before throwing this back in or am I better off letting the original stay put and not disturb it?
crewchiefpro
Hard-core CEG'er
Leave the rear main alone. Most of these seals will be fine. Front crank seal comes with the lower seal package so replace it.
bigboyricky93
Hi-Def Porn King
I was planning on replacing the front seal but the rear one kinda concerned me with replacing it. I'm replacing all the other seals except for the wp shaft off the intake can. It wasn't leaking on the old engine so I'm not gonna mess with that one. I'm just taking the whole cam out as one assembly. Thanks! Time to put 'er back together!
Beans
Addicted CEG'er
Do yourself a favor, go oval port.
bigboyricky93
Hi-Def Porn King
Haha a little to late for that... I've already reshaped the ports... I want to and am going to keep the 2.5 look and intakes but for curiosity why do you say that?
BAD SVT
Addicted CEG'er
As a habit i reckon.
bigboyricky93
Hi-Def Porn King
Hello again everyone! So anyway the engine is complete and is just waiting to be dropped in. Anyways I do have some questions about the motor mounts and roll restrictors.
1. Is it better to reattach the roll restrictors to the car before dropping or after the engine is already in?
2. Does anyone have a list of all the bolts and nuts and what their sizes and grades are for them for the mounts and restrictors and staboshock? Some of my old ones are severly rusted and worn. And some have been overly abused and impacted from even before me.
1. Is it better to reattach the roll restrictors to the car before dropping or after the engine is already in?
2. Does anyone have a list of all the bolts and nuts and what their sizes and grades are for them for the mounts and restrictors and staboshock? Some of my old ones are severly rusted and worn. And some have been overly abused and impacted from even before me.
BAD SVT
Addicted CEG'er
Keep the mounts and restrictors off until u drop the engine into the bay. Doesn't add any considerable time to the process, and is easier to drop in with them off
bigboyricky93
Hi-Def Porn King
Thanks! That's what I ended up doing today. I measured the clearances and realized it wouldn't work but it's a bit of a hassle to align it without the tool. I also found the bolts and nuts I needed at sears hardware. So it all worked out! Tomorrow is all the plug and play stuff like wires and hoses so hopefully it will turn over and run. Ill post in tomorrow and let everyone know.