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Rear caliper piston won´t compress further for new pads!

H

hotdimmes

Hard-core CEG'er
Joined
Dec 26, 2003
Messages
4,112
Location
New Britain, CT
So I'm changing my rear brake pads, using pliers to twist the rear brake cylinder clockwise as I've read a million times, and it just wont go any further even though it has to, to accept new pads.

similar to this thread:

http://contour.org/ceg-vb/showthread.php?t=2141&highlight=rear+piston

Not sure what to do and I need help by morning! Did front drivers side pad, put everything back on, went to driver's rear, then ran into this problem. Hadnt pumped the brakes since doing the front, so I tried that and the rear piston came out to the rotor like it should have. We were able to turn it back to its original position so it accepts the old pads but thats it! Cap is off the reservoir. Ebrake is down. Is that maybe the problem?
 
The ebrake should be released but you might need the caliper tool that locks into the piston and turns it.
 
SVT Loki said:
Have you tried a big old C-clamp and a pair of pliers?
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Click to expand...

NOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!

Not on Contour rear disc brakes. The piston doesn't compress that way. They need to be turned in either using a special tool or using long nose pliers.

Can you tell us a little more? Do you have the Warmonger rear big brake kit?
 
nope, stock rear brakes. Just trying to put new pads in. The fronts went smoothly, upgraded to svt rotors and caliper brackets. I go to change out the rear pads, and the piston stops going in after a certain point and it just keeps spinning with no change. The piston itself works since it moved towards the rotor when i pumped the brakes. :shrug: Maybe im not pushing in hard enough when twisting that piece on the piston, but im under the fairly correct impression that you dont want to push the caliper in too much or i will ruin it since the twisting mechanism is what is supposed to recede said pison into the caliper.
 
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Big Jim said:
NOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!

Not on Contour rear disc brakes. The piston doesn't compress that way. They need to be turned in either using a special tool or using long nose pliers.

Can you tell us a little more? Do you have the Warmonger rear big brake kit?
Click to expand...

:shrug: Thats how I did mine, slow turned the piston with the pliers while compressing the C-clamp
 
Thanks for the suggestions guys. I didnt think there were too many variables to this...either it works or it doesnt. I'll give it one more go and if it doesnt work, i'll run the stock pads a bit longer. Maybe it will be easier when I switch over to stainless steel lines and everything is disconnected :shrug:

Update: Finally got it on but holy crap that was alot of twisting and pushing in. And even then, I had to take a rubber mallet to the caliper to squeeze it back on over the pads! My hands hurt! Fully uncushioned rusty iron pliers FTL!
 
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SVT Loki said:
:shrug: Thats how I did mine, slow turned the piston with the pliers while compressing the C-clamp
Click to expand...


Its much easier with the $2 square tool that just clips onto a 3/8" socket. Or you can just rent the loaner tool caliper set from autozone.
 
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