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RAD's 3L build

Ok another question. Anybody know what the most I can mill off the heads would be? I want to take off thirty thousandths and that should bring my port match 3L to about 11:1 compression
 
Alright so I'm trying to figure out how much I can mill off the heads. But my Chilton doesn't tell me the Valve lift or rocker arm ratio. So if anybody knows the valve lifts for the SVT cams that would be great, or give me the rocker arm ratio and I'll just find the lobe lift on the SVT cams I have
 
I don't think that anything can be milled off. I would think that if one did there would be a risk of the tensioners not being able to function correctly, let alone it might allow the piston to contact a valve.
 
Well I figure that the tensioner will be capable of making up for the increased slack in the chain. (Not sure though) And if I can get the numbers I need I'll do the math to figure out how much can be taken off or I'll just assemble it with some modeling clay, rotate the engine, and measure how close the piston is to the valve.
 
Ok another question. Anybody know what the most I can mill off the heads would be? I want to take off thirty thousandths and that should bring my port match 3L to about 11:1 compression
Just a heads up;
do you have forged rods ?
From what i've read; the slightly raised compression of the SVT engine, accelerates the demize of the powdered metal con rods and leads to early spun bearings. I can only think that this compression ratio with stock con rods will do the the same ....only quicker ....G.
 
Ok, So I'm ordering all my parts and I called Ford for some stuff like the oil pick-up. I also asked them about 2S7Z-6513-AA ST220 Valve Springs (measured 161-163 lb/in) (From the 3L part number sticky) and he said it was replaced with another part number for springs that are on the taurus, sable, escape and so on. Would those springs still be the heavier duty ones the ST220 had?


Yea if you check out the 3L part number thread, I updated it showing they are all the same and listed the new part number.

As for machining the heads, I'm having BPE Racing do a resurface on my heads for the mating surface and they will remove up to 0.02" with out problem. However they may just be a general number they toss around and may not be something to hold true too.

I'll have to do some digging for the valve lift and get back to you.
 
Found it. I actually picked it up off of the Taurus Club forum, but it was pulled from DemonSVT's website before it went down. Here's everything he had listed. Also the post from the Taurus Club is this, http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/87-engine-drivetrain/114740-duratec-cam-info-svt-cams-3l-taurus.html.

DemonSVT's Old Website said:
2.5L Specs (Pre 00)

Bore: 82.4mm* (3.24�)

Stroke: 79.5mm* (3.13�)

Displacement: 2544cc

Chamber Volume: 44.5cc

Combined Chamber Volume: 45.1cc

Head Gasket Thickness: 1mm* (.034)

Intake Valve: 32mm (1.26�)

Exhaust Valve: 26mm (1.02�)



2.5L Specs (00 and on)


Bore: 81.67mm* (3.22")

Displacement: 2499cc



3L Specs

Bore: 89mm* (3.504")

Stroke: 79.5mm* * (3.13")

Displacement: 2967cc

Chamber Volume: 48.2cc

Combined Chamber Volume: 52cc

Head Gasket Thickness: 1mm* (.040)

Intake Valve: 35mm (1.38�)

Exhaust Valve: 30mm (1.18�)





All Duratecs

Block Weight: 130lbs

Fully dressed 2.5L: 365lbs

Deck Height: 208mm* (8.19")

Deck Clearance: Minimum 0.415(0.016) Below to 0.115(0.0045) Above

Piston Compression Depth: 1.1811"

Connecting Rod Length: 5.44"

Bore Spacing: 102mm* (4.02�)

Block Length: 396mm* (15.6�)

Rocker Ratio: 1.80 to 1



Compression Ratios by Chamber Size




* * * * * * * * 2.5L

44.5cc = 9.70 to 1

50cc = 8.91 to 1



44.5cc 98-99 SVT = 10.02 to 1

44.5cc 00 SVT = 10.31 to 1

50cc 98-99 SVT = 9.28 to 1

50cc 00 SVT = 9.49 to 1



* * * * * * * * 3L

44.5cc Hybrid = 11.24 to 1

44.5cc 89mm bore Hybrid = 10.85 to 1

44.5cc 90mm bore Hybrid = 11 to 1

48.2cc - 01+ Oval Port = 10.07 to 1

48.2cc 90mm bore = 10.24 to 1

50cc = 9.78 to 1

52cc = 9.47 to 1



You'll lose about 0.125cc chamber volume for each 0.001in of material that you remove during surfacing.

Taking off, say .003" will only raise your compression ratio by about 0.06 point.

Maximum safe limit is .006�





* * * * * * Cam Specs

*98-00 2.54L & 2.49L SVT*
Intake Open = 18 deg. BTDC primary & secondary
Intake Close = 52 deg. ABDC for primary
Intake Close = 60 deg. ABDC for secondary
Intake Duration = 250 deg. for primary
Intake Duration = 258 deg. for secondary
Exhaust Open = 61 deg. BBDC
Exhaust Close = 21 deg. ATDC
Exhaust Duration = 262 deg.
Max Lift = 9.8mm

*95-00-2.54L & 2.49L Non-SVT and 95-99 3.0L Non Lincoln LS*
Split Port/Dual Pattern. Only LH 2.5 Intake has the accessory drive W/P pulley.
Intake Open = 17 deg. BTDC primary & secondary
Intake Close = 47 deg. ABDC for primary
Intake Close = 53 deg. ABDC for secondary
Intake Duration = 244 deg. for primary
Intake Duration = 250 deg. for secondary
Exhaust Open = 67 deg. BBDC
Exhaust Close = 13 deg. ATDC
Exhaust Duration = 260 deg.
Max Lift = 9.8mm

*2000+ 3.0L Non Lincoln/Jaguar*
No primary or secondary. Head is Oval Port.
Intake Open = 4 deg. BTDC
Intake Close = 48 deg. ABDC
Intake Duration = 232 deg
Exhaust Open = 56 deg. BBDC
Exhaust Close = 12 deg. ATDC
Exhaust Duration = 248 deg.
Max Lift = 9.8mm

*All 3.0L Mazda 6*

No primary or secondary. Head is Oval Port. Engine has Variable Valve Timing
Intake Open (low) = 25.5 deg. BTDC
Intake Open (high) = -9.5 deg. BTDC
Intake Close (low) = 20.5 deg. ABDC
Intake Close (high) = 65.5 deg. ABDC
Intake Duration (low) = 222.5 deg
Intake Duration (high) = 235.5 deg
Exhaust Open = 71 deg. BBDC
Exhaust Close = 17 deg. ATDC
Exhaust Duration = 268 deg.
Max Lift = 9.8mm

*All 3.0L Jaguar*
No primary or secondary. Head is Oval port. Engine has Variable Valve Timing
No cam timing specs. (any one have them?)
Intake Max Lift = 9.36mm
Exhaust Max Lift = 9.47mm



* * * * * Setting Cam Timing

You cannot go wrong if you line up the colored links on the chain with the marks on the front of the cam sprockets and the mark on the crank sprocket. If you do this, the engine will be correctly timed every time. Don't even pay attention to the arrows on the back of the cam sprockets.


 
Holy crap that is a sweet find. That answers all my number needs. It says that .006 is the max limit for surfacing. Is that with Piston and Valve clearance already accounted for? So .003 should be safe?

Also in regards to gorman, those numbers state that milling .003 off won't drastically affect the engines compression in terms of worrying about bearing failure. While I was concerned with the Rod issue as well, after talking to my machinist who has worked on engines for most of his life, (although he is not very familiar with the Duratec) He claims that it is almost definitally an oiling issue or the fact that people are just abusing the engines. Finally my auto teacher who has been around the world of automotive claims that the powdered design is a better design seeing as they are cast as a whole then broken so the caps match up perfectly with the rest of the rod and therefore is creating a better "grasp" on the bearing to the crank. Now note this is what the auto people I turn to say about this issue and they do not have extensive research with the Duratec motors.
 
Holy crap that is a sweet find. That answers all my number needs. It says that .006 is the max limit for surfacing. Is that with Piston and Valve clearance already accounted for? So .003 should be safe?

Also in regards to gorman, those numbers state that milling .003 off won't drastically affect the engines compression in terms of worrying about bearing failure. While I was concerned with the Rod issue as well, after talking to my machinist who has worked on engines for most of his life, (although he is not very familiar with the Duratec) He claims that it is almost definitally an oiling issue or the fact that people are just abusing the engines. Finally my auto teacher who has been around the world of automotive claims that the powdered design is a better design seeing as they are cast as a whole then broken so the caps match up perfectly with the rest of the rod and therefore is creating a better "grasp" on the bearing to the crank. Now note this is what the auto people I turn to say about this issue and they do not have extensive research with the Duratec motors.



It is not an oiling issue. If it was then the MAIN Bearings would be junk, and that is simply not the case. The mains get priority oiling, they would be the first to go. Oil tends to fall out of larger gaps when the rod big end stretches. This causes additional wear on the bearing because the pump cannot keep oil pressure high enough. Eventually the rod bearing heats up to the point it welds itself to the crank, spins and eventually grabs the rod until it breaks in a million powdered metal pieces.

The cool stuff happens after that when the broken rod, now free to explore the block, starts banging into every object it can find until it encounters a weak spot, such as the side of your nice aluminum block. It punches a big azz hole then continues to poke anything in its path until it no longer can hit anything.

You see it is simple physics. If it was an oiling problem the mains would do the same as the rods, and the motor would sieze up. This is simply not the case, the motor will continue to run until there is no more oil to the other rods, or fuel. It can unhappily run on 2 or 3 cylinders that will be left. Sure it will sound like a bad reggae band missing a few instruments but it will run.


Joy to the world to be are blessed with chitty powdered metal rods.
 
I'm glad you read that post and have considered it ... i have no desire to see anyone's engine fail.

The advice about the con rods came from Terry Haines .. a guy who was involved from the begining of this engine.

If you search his name, you may find the huge thread where this issue was thrashed out. Many senior members can advise you too ...since they all know what Terry Haines said.

could check NECO too ... G.
 
Yea I know who Terry Haines is and I read his thoughts on the Rods thats what got me concerned. I must have missed the part about the main bearings because that makes alot of sense.

As I was sitting eating a bowl of brain food (cereal) I realized something. Forget .003" thats nothing I want to take off .030"! So when it reads .006" is the Max safe limit does that mean you basically can't mill these heads at all?

Edit: Still looking for Fords DMD part number too if anyone knows that. Or should I just ask for the most updated pulley for the 2.5?
 
Edit: Still looking for Fords DMD part number too if anyone knows that. Or should I just ask for the most updated pulley for the 2.5?

Well I think you need to search harder... I did a google search for Cougar DMD damper and found this link to a NECO thread...

http://www.newcougar.org/forums/general-info/46734-dual-mode-damper-dmd-65-a.html

CougarGT@NECO said:
Dual Mode Damper (DMD) for $65

Part Numbers:

DMD: 1S7Z 6312 CA
Bolt: F5RZ 6A340 B

Price per Tousley Ford website seems to have gotten a bit pricey... might be worth searching the web (eBay, CEG classifieds, NECO classifieds) for a better deal...

DMD_price..JPG
 
Also since the OEM DMD is becoming more and more expensive... this option is looking more and more appealing....


Fluidampr for Duratec 3.0L. I contacted Fluidampr and they told me this will in fact work on these 3L engines. Even though it says that it is for the Mazda 3L. Just a bit spendy at $318.77, cheapest I have found it yet.

i-bf790e36-5c6c-4c98-80aa-846f237e7d36-800.jpg
 
RAD; here's something else you might like to know. I have been looking around for a 3.0L engine. While i was in the dealership buying parts, i asked about 3.0L part numbers. I was told that the ST220 engine has the same part number as all the other 3.0L engines in the mondeo range. This lead us to believe that the extra power of the ST220 comes from tuning. I'm not sure how much extra power you will gain by skimming the head ... but for the sake of reliability couldn't you gain it by tuning instead ? ...G.
 
RAD; here's something else you might like to know. I have been looking around for a 3.0L engine. While i was in the dealership buying parts, i asked about 3.0L part numbers. I was told that the ST220 engine has the same part number as all the other 3.0L engines in the mondeo range. This lead us to believe that the extra power of the ST220 comes from tuning. I'm not sure how much extra power you will gain by skimming the head ... but for the sake of reliability couldn't you gain it by tuning instead ? ...G.

Clearly no one reads what I post around here....

I said this a long time ago. The extra gain in horsepower comes from the exhaust system on the ST220. The engine is no different then the other 3L equipped Mondeo's. This is also why there is nothing special about the so called "ST220" UIM as it is the same as the std 3L UIM on any Mondeo and is not worth anymore because it came off of a ST220.
 
Clearly no one reads what I post around here....

i do try to read up ... but a 3.0l wasn't on my list
until i bought a Vortec kit.


I think the engine part number doesn't include the intakes and exhaust as you pointed out .... so there may well be a gain from the aluminium manifold. It also has the capability of being honed of course ...G.
 
I think the engine part number doesn't include the intakes and exhaust as you pointed out .... so there may well be a gain from the aluminium manifold. It also has the capability of being honed of course ...G.

The UIM is the same between the ST220 and the 3L Mondeo. This has been confirmed by MEG.

That said I believe it offers an improvement over what we have available here in the states, but it does not provide an increase in power for the ST220 over the std 3L Mondeo. This is however why I picked up a UK Mondeo 3L UIM and had it extrude honed.
 
Well if compression ratio is a concern for these rods let me ask you this, if the compression ratio on a 98-99 SVT is 10.02 and the ratio for a 00 is 10.31 do the 00 SVT's have a higher rate of bearing failure?
 
Well if compression ratio is a concern for these rods let me ask you this, if the compression ratio on a 98-99 SVT is 10.02 and the ratio for a 00 is 10.31 do the 00 SVT's have a higher rate of bearing failure?
From what i read about the 'test to destruction' tests that Terry Haines was involved with, SVT engines had a higher failure rate than the lower compression SE engines. Cranking the compression rate up by this much may do the same. Forged rods seem to be a first step if you are going to up the power by any meaningful amount. ...hope this helps ...G.
 
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