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PRT Aluminum Subframe Bushing Pre-sale GB

Order is placed! The fabricator bumped them up to a 7 day turnaround so I'm hoping to ship all orders early October. Things will be a little hectic for me as I'm moving to a new shop over the next two weeks.
 
Coming along!

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@Josh or someone: Can you clarify the procedure for changing these? My garage guys didn't like the sound of cutting access holes in the floor, or is that only a last resort if the bushings are too tight?

Dan
 
The rear subframe nuts will 99% likely break loose and spin. In order to loosen them. You need to hold onto the nut, cutting a access hole in the floorpan is the correct way to do ot. NOT THE FRAME.
 
Beans said:
The rear subframe nuts will 99% likely break loose and spin. In order to loosen them. You need to hold onto the nut, cutting a access hole in the floorpan is the correct way to do ot. NOT THE FRAME.
Click to expand...

thats is why i looooooove living in the NW. no rust except of like 15 year old cars and older. my coug only has a few underbody spots where i bottomed out. and i daily the sh*t out of it
 
did anyone take pictures of the bushing install? I'm just trying to get as much info as possible for my garage guys,, as they normally work on Japanese cars, but their rates are much less than my Ford dealer. Any comments or pics would be greatly appreciated.

Happy Canadian Thanksgiving to everyone!
 
You only need the floor access holes if the captured nuts in the frame break loose. If this needs to happen, it's an hour job to get to the floor openings from inside the cabin. There are ports for creaking/accessing these holes under the carpet in the foot well. But again, this only needs to happen if the bolts do not come out on their own.
 
Beans said:
The rear subframe nuts will 99% likely break loose and spin. In order to loosen them. You need to hold onto the nut, cutting a access hole in the floorpan is the correct way to do ot. NOT THE FRAME.
Click to expand...

I don't think you need to cut anything in the floor, it's been a while but I thought I just bent all those ribs out of the way, jammed a wrench in there on the nut, then bent the ribs back.
 
Redlineracer12 said:
I don't think you need to cut anything in the floor, it's been a while but I thought I just bent all those ribs out of the way, jammed a wrench in there on the nut, then bent the ribs back.
Click to expand...

Correct. This is all that is needed. If you pull up the carpet and the sound deading material you'll need to pick away and the adhesive back pad that they put over the floor boards, but once it is removed you'll see the 'vent' looking opening in the floor. If you cut or bend the slits or 'ribs' out of the way you'll be fine.

EDIT: It's a Cougar pic, but you get the idea...

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I got my installed this week...no problem for my garage guys, just about 2.5 hours. I noticed an immediate improvement. The car feels more solid, I no longer have to avoid manhole covers that used to jar my spine every time that I drove over one. I have a separate issue with my front sway bar, so I haven't really tested much more than the drive home from the garage.
 
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