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portmatched 3L questions

C

crackerican69

Veteran CEG'er
Joined
Apr 27, 2011
Messages
553
Location
Gilbertsville, PA
Hey guys! I have to replace my engine and I should be getting a 3L (2004 w/ 47K for $550) this week. I know the easiest thing to do is full 3L, but I dont have time/funds to have to all the extra stuff done to.make it work (fuel lines, forsomeoddrreasonIamforgettingsomething, TB). So portmatching is the second easiest thing to swap. But I also dont really have time to wait for porting to be done. I know NPG makes )the adapter plate so.you dont have to machine anything.

My questions is what else would i need to do the ”portmatch” swap that I dont aleady have from my 2.5? I need the car running ASAP! I know i shouldnt really rush this, but unfortunately at this point, i have no choice.
 
Just throwing this out there. If you bring it to Elizabethtown I can do the porting for you in a weekend maybe one night if you want to hang out on a fri or sat night for like 3-4 hours. I have a bugzuki plate for a guide so Youd just have to buy the two piece set for when you bolt the intakes on. I have all the tools and bits and ported my engine over last winter including swapping svt cams and timing components.

Check out the how to on necko and follow it to a t otherwise.
 
Also I know you have found an engine so im just throwing this out there. The place where I picked up my engine have one with 12k miles for $600. The salesman when i called worked a little with me on the price and took the price of tax off. It was listed $400 plus tax he gave it to me for $37x plus tax making it an even $400.

$50 more take 32k off the life of your engine. HERE is the link to that engine. Just throwing it out there as an option. They were great to work with and are a very well run business.
 
save yourself the hastle of porting and throw the 2.5 heads on. :D

or take them to solo, he'll hook ya up. I've been to his place a few times to buy things or drop parts off. Cool guy to deal with.
 
After doing some research for the past few hours, ive come to realize that either way is not as hard as I thought it would be. The porting looks simple enough and tools required seem cheap enough which would make the NPG adapter unneccessitated, saving me $392. Do not have an engine stand (drawback). On the flip side, the full 3L, according to what I found, is only requiring an NPG fuel rail adapter, TB modification (dont know full extent), and vacuum hose. All of which I can handle. If I go full, I can take time to everything right and not rush and not risk making potentially costly mistakes. I can get a backup set of heads, or use SVT heads, which will allow time to get cams freshened up and a PnP on the heads. Plus I have a funeral on Friday morning, then work at night for a whopping 3 hours (waste), off Saturday, but have picnic at the house, then memorial cruise/cookout then work on Sunday. Full slate for me this weekend. Gonna do some more research and price checks on supplies either way.
 
crackerican69 said:
After doing some research for the past few hours, ive come to realize that either way is not as hard as I thought it would be. The porting looks simple enough and tools required seem cheap enough which would make the NPG adapter unneccessitated, saving me $392. Do not have an engine stand (drawback). On the flip side, the full 3L, according to what I found, is only requiring an NPG fuel rail adapter, TB modification (dont know full extent), and vacuum hose. All of which I can handle. If I go full, I can take time to everything right and not rush and not risk making potentially costly mistakes. I can get a backup set of heads, or use SVT heads, which will allow time to get cams freshened up and a PnP on the heads. Plus I have a funeral on Friday morning, then work at night for a whopping 3 hours (waste), off Saturday, but have picnic at the house, then memorial cruise/cookout then work on Sunday. Full slate for me this weekend. Gonna do some more research and price checks on supplies either way.
Click to expand...



Other full 3L items (some you already mentioned):
-Tune needed ($500) due to the IMRC removal and possible EGR delete
-Almost all the vacuum lines need to be rerouted (shortened or extended)
-If using EGR then you will have to build a custom EGR tube.
-The TB bracket needs to be custom built. The cruise control setup is a bit tricky so something custom will have to be fabbed up to attach it.
-Fuel rail adapters or custom fuel rail needed.
-If you want to use 3L injectors and you have a return fuel system car you need to splice in the new style injectors clips.
-A few sensor wires need to be extended to reach there new sensor locations.
-The injector harness needs to have some of the plastic case cut off so the upper intake fits properly.
-Intake piping up to the throttle body can be a bit tricky but it's not rocket science.

The ported 3L will require porting and then you'd use all your stock connections/parts so you can get away without a tune. For porting get some non-ferrous bits so they don't clog up on you when you are porting. Be very careful not to go too deep when porting, especially when cutting the new injector valleys. You don't want to put a hole in the head like some have done recently.
 
Blackcoog said:
Other full 3L items (some you already mentioned):
-Tune needed ($500) due to the IMRC removal and possible EGR delete
-Almost all the vacuum lines need to be rerouted (shortened or extended)
-If using EGR then you will have to build a custom EGR tube.
-The TB bracket needs to be custom built. The cruise control setup is a bit tricky so something custom will have to be fabbed up to attach it.
-Fuel rail adapters or custom fuel rail needed.
-If you want to use 3L injectors and you have a return fuel system car you need to splice in the new style injectors clips.
-A few sensor wires need to be extended to reach there new sensor locations.
-The injector harness needs to have some of the plastic case cut off so the upper intake fits properly.
-Intake piping up to the throttle body can be a bit tricky but it's not rocket science.

The ported 3L will require porting and then you'd use all your stock connections/parts so you can get away without a tune. For porting get some non-ferrous bits so they don't clog up on you when you are porting. Be very careful not to go too deep when porting, especially when cutting the new injector valleys. You don't want to put a hole in the head like some have done recently.
Click to expand...

Thanks for answering the unasked questions! I was aware of some of that, but not all of it. On that note, I did order the Bugzuki plates for the porting. Unfortunately I had a hard enough time getting a hold of a truck to pick the engine up, so repeating that process to go almost 2 hours away is going to be hard...to say the least. Throw into the mix a funeral tomorrow morning and work tomorrow night...that doesn't leave alot of available time to make that trip. So I will have to take this thing head on and spend all of my down time wrenching away. I ordered the pan gasket and valve cover gasket today as well. My drill managed to grow legs and walk away recently too (alot of shady things have been happening over the past
month and a half. Mystery scratches, missing/damaged property, oh...AND THIS!!!

IMAG0155.jpg

happened 2 days after an altercation with my neighbor!

Some other questions:
A. Do I stick with 3L valve covers,
B. Do I use the 3L pulse wheels in the 2.5 position, or do i use the 2.5. (same wheel)
B.2. Do I use 2.5 timing even though I will not be using the SVT cams
D. Do I use the 2.5 or 3L crank pulley?
E. Is there a good "finished product" pic to go by?
F. did you notice I skipped C.?
 
A. svt valve covers
B. 3L pulse wheel in 2.5 position works. not sure about other way around
B. If your not swaping cams dont change a thing with timing components.
D. 2.5l crank pulley
E. finished product of what?? The assembled timing? Or pulley configuration?

DSC02166..JPG

F. Just now did i notice. (going back to change my alphabetical order.)
 
E. Porting. But nevermind. I was looking at the neco link on the computer instead of my phone so I can now see what it is supposed to look like!
F. HAHAHA

That is a good looking engine. I see the blue screaming out from behind the crank pulley. Nice color combo!
 
Made ALOT of progress the past few days. Got the porting done. Gotta say, I think I did a good job for my first time...
IMAG0311.jpg

IMAG0312.jpg


Just have to finish a couple things and I should be good to go tomorrow, Thursday at the least.
 
blu_fuz said:
Not too bad rookie! :cool:


How long did it take to port?
Click to expand...

Thanks. It took about a total of 3/4 hours. I couldnt find the proper bits at any of the local stores, so I used my Dremel with the red cutting wheels and juat took my time. Got a nice round shape and a good smooth fimish with it. I was surprised it came out that well. Thanks!
 
You did that with a DREMEL in 3-4hrs?!?!?!?!?!?! :bow: "I'm not worthy"!


No freaking way would I do that with a dremel. It takes me 3 hours with the proper porting bits and a die grinder. Your hands must have felt like •••• for hours afterwards :laugh:.
 
I didnt go ”all the way” because this is my first time and if I made a mistake, I would be ****ed! Plus I feel like the airflow would be funneled in, almost ”forced in”. And from looking through the injector holes, it looked sufficient.

My hand were somewhat numb! Lol! And hot from the exhaust vents blowing directly on them. And yes...about 3-4 hours...and maybe 15 discs. 2 on each port for the rough stuff, then a couple more to smooth it out.

Thanks again! A few more things to do and I can throw it all back in the car. I also had a few labeled bags of bolts go astray. Need to track them down or figure out what sizes they are.
 
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