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P0171 and idle problems, engine loud

The plugs have about 10,000 miles on them, maybe less. Autolite Double Plats. What I've checked:
  • All 4 plugs, and the gaps. Fine. Plugs looked normal.
  • All 4 plug wires, and connections. Fine.
  • Removed entire air intake, including plenium, and ran quickly w/ the throttle exposed to open air to see if it was an intake problem. Everything ran just as bad.
  • Partially pulled off timing belt cover, checked integrity of belt, and watched it while the car was running.
  • Had the codes pulled 3 times, all 3 times it was the P0171.
  • Cleaned the MAF. Made a little difference but got worse right away. I just blasted it but I'll have to try cleaning it with a pipe cleaner.
  • Checked the entire engine multiple times with carb cleaner and heard no difference in idle.
  • Visually inspected everything very closely. Nothing obvious.
  • Check belt, hoses, etc.
  • Had the charging/electrical system tested. Everything tested good.
  • Checked all fluids, especially oil, all perfect and changed recently.
  • PCV valve changed 8,000 miles ago by the dealer.
Also, this was a problem before: The bottom of the air intake box has oil in it, and the air filter has oil all on one side. It is obviously coming from the crankcase breather hose. The PCV valve and breather filter were changed, never made a difference. It's been like that since around 40,000 miles.

I'm not totally convinced it is a problem with the injectors or fuel-related. Especially because of the fact that it runs fine with the engine above 1000 RPMs, and is only affecting idle.

The part that is puzzleing me is the steady surging between 600 RPMs and about 900 RPMs, rhymically, only when stopped and sitting, like at a light or in a parking lot. And it seems worse when the car is warm.

Does any of the above sound like symptoms of a dirty/sticky IAC? Or maybe the O2 sensor actually going bad? Or anything else?
 
Have you gone through this list for the cheap and easy ones yet?

From TSB for P0171.

The Adaptive Fuel Strategy continuously monitors fuel delivery hardware. The code is set when the adaptive fuel tables reach a rich calibrated limit.

Fuel System:
· Contaminated fuel injectors
· Low fuel pressure or running out of fuel (fuel pump, filter, fuel supply line restrictions)
· Vapor recovery system (VMV)

Induction System:
· MAF contamination
· Air leaks between the MAF and throttle body
· Vacuum leaks
· PCV system concern
· Improperly seated engine oil dipstick

EGR System:
· Leaking gasket
· Stuck EGR valve
· Leaking diaphragm or EVR

Base Engine:
· Exhaust leaks before or near the HO2S
· Secondary air concern

Powertrain Control System:
· PCM concern
 
I'm slowly working my way though the list. Soon I'm going to run a can of Seafoam through a vacuum line. I ran a good sized container of injector cleaner on an empty tank, no difference. But now, the stumbling only seems to happen when I stop harder. A slow gradual stop doesn't do it. Also, the brake pedal is softer in a soft stop and harder in a hard stop. Fluid level is fine.

Listening to the noise, I'm thinking it maybe be the engine mount. The engine seems to shake an awful lot when ideling. Could that be the reasoning behind some of this? It is coming from the belt/timing cover/passenger mount area.
 
The mechanic I took it to said the ideler pulies on the timing belt are shot. That is what is causing the problems. Wonderful how those are failing on a car with 68,000 miles on it.
 
Hey, don't get too frustrated! You're not the only one!!! Mine failed at 78k and shredded my timing belt into 3 parts!! I was thrilled and had no clue except that it was taking longer and longer to start in the morning. Will you be doing this yourself or having the dealer do it?? I did it myself and it was a PITA, but at least gates makes a kit for it!
 
I'm going to try to find someone help me do it. I have no clue what I'm doing. A garage said they would charge me between 4 and 6 hours of labor at $62/hr.
 
You'll need the Gates Timing Belt kit (which has all the pulleys/tensioners, belt, and instructions!) and the OTC Zetec Timing tool kit (which is a straight piece of metal you slide in the ends of the cams when you have them in the timed position and a plug you put in the block after you have the #1 piston at TDC) Anyways, I just did mine last month so if you have any questions, feel free to PM me. There is a how-to on these forums that will help you with the part numbers for the Gates kit and the OTC kit. :cool:

-Kyle
 
I'm going to have a garage do it instead of risking driving it around and damaging something else, and I know I won't be able to do it myself. How bad of a hit money-wise will I be taking??
 
Get QUOTES not estimates. You should be able to find a shop that will do the timing belt kit for around $350 installed. Be sure they get you the full Gates timing kit, not just a belt or pulley.
 
TourDeForce said:
Be sure they get you the full Gates timing kit, not just a belt or pulley.
Click to expand...
Yes!!! The idlers are plastic and one of mine desintegrated and that is what shredded my belt. Replacing them all at once is the BEST thing to do! I think the above estimate would be about right for having a shop do it. I paid almost 150 for the Gates kit and the Timing Tools. Have you thought about having the water pump done while you are in there?? Thats what I did..just for peace of mind.
Good luck and hope you find a shop that is good to you. Keep us updated.

-Kyle
 
After taking the car to a trusted mechanic, he said a bad PCV hose was causing the idle problems. But he also said the noise coming from the timing belt area wasn't good, and something probably was going to break. He told me they didn't do those engines there because of needing a special tool (which I know he meant the camshaft tool).

I'm going to buy the Gates kit, and drive down to a CEGer in Rhode Island that volunteered to help me do the job. He said the waterpump doesn't really need to be done, because it can be done later w/o removing the timing belt stuff.
 
I did the Gates kit on my Zetec & I used a piece of 1/4" aluminum bar as a cam tool, then used the bar to make new slide pins for my hurricane shutters. Cost = $0.
 
If I'm correct... I've got a Gates kit number of TCK294 (my car has a build date of 02/99). I'm guessing I also need to get an oil seal, 2 of them, with part number KS16487, unless they are included in the kit.

I'm thinking I'll also need some coolant. I replaced my valve cover gasket about 10,000 miles ago, so I'll reuse that. Anything else I'm missing?
 
The Gates kit sounds correct (my box ended up in my storage garage so I can't check for sure) but Idk about the oil seals. I didn't replace those.
 
So the final results:
  • Bad idle due to torn PCV hose. $50 replaced in a shop. ($35 labor= 1/2 hr, $15 part).
  • Loud noise- timing belt pully. $160 plus tax for the Gates kit. Approximately 3-4 hours of labor, depending on where it is done.
 
anyone have instructions and pics for replacing the pcv on a duratec? i have seen the pics for a zetec but that dosent really help me. I have the same idle problems as listed here except my codes are p0171 and p0174. this pcv hose or valve seems like it could be the likely culprit.
 
Wow! I couldn't have logged on at a better time. I'm new to CEG. I'm having the same problems with my 98 Zetec 2.0. I've cleaned the MAF sensor, replaced the fuel filter and ran fuel injector cleaner because I thought I wasn't getting enough gas to the injectors. My car is out front now as I type this because I noticed my T-belt is starting to shred. But I didn't think the problem lied just with the belt. After seeing Matt go through the same thing and he ended up with a problem with his PCV system, I think I'll change my hose and PCV valve. Hopefully this will work for me. Thanks guys, you all have been a big help. Mike-1998 Contour GL.
 
With the help of a fellow CEGer, the timing belt was changed yesterday. One of the pullies on the bottom had about 1/4 of it missing. It was shreading up one side of the belt, and glossing it. It also melted a hole right through the lower plastic cover. Save yourself the trouble and replace everything at 60,000 miles.
 
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