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Oil pressure?

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Devanmc

Veteran CEG'er
Joined
May 14, 2007
Messages
589
Location
Novi, MI
Im curious of peoples oil pressure averages and if anyone knows where i can find the oil pressure chart(seen it referenced on auto zones repair guide)?


cold- idle at 80psi. if i hit the gas it goes above 100(GAUGE MAX)
warm- idle at about 30ish on the highway or WOT about 80-85psi.


this has always seemed very high to me. :shrug:
 
Location shouldn't matter as he is complaining that it may be HIGH. Different locations can lower it but not raise it. Pressure won't increase beyond what pump puts out. Could be cheap crap gauge. That does seem high, you do use the factory type bypass oil filter right? Could blow a filter case while engine cold. Maybe your main oil bypass in pump that sets pressure is sticking. The hot pressure not that bad, the cold is what can do some damage. I wouldn't be revving that sucker cold (you shouldn't do that anyway). What weight oil?
 
TX00SVT said:
Those numbers aren't at the head. Mine are way different.
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your right now that I think about it more it may not have been read at the head but its a zetec so the pressure could and most likely is different from the duratec ...
 
BrApple said:
your right now that I think about it more it may not have been read at the head but its a zetec so the pressure could and most likely is different from the duratec ...
Click to expand...


Ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh. Yeah, might make a difference. Still seems pretty high for the head.
 
actually, it does matter. if its tapped into the block by the starter, those numbers seem about right. i cant remember off hand what they should be but i seem to recall my Zetec running similar pressures.

Edit: just found the specs. idle should be between 18 and 36 PSI. 4000RPMs should be between 54 and 80PSI
 
Like I said, cold idle a little high, the filter bypass on almost anything starts bypassing around 30# to avoid blowing out the filter cover.
 
amc49 said:
Like I said, cold idle a little high, the filter bypass on almost anything starts bypassing around 30# to avoid blowing out the filter cover.
Click to expand...
actually, i dont think the cold idle is too high either. like i said, i cant remember exactly what my numbers where but im pretty sure they were similar.

and, FWIW, the oil pressure in my SVT at cold idle is up around 75 and will hit 100 under load, and thats tapped into the head
 
Those numbers sound decent to me. If you're that concerned, you can easily replace the relief valve in the oil pump. It's inside the pump but can be accessed from the outside with the engine and pump body in place (on a zetec, that is-- duratec is another story)
 
meh, il leave it till the timing belt needs to be replaced and throw a FRPP billet oil pump in instead.:laugh:
 
That may be normal pressure, I'm no expert on zetec. I do know that most people change a pump to increase pressure, pretty unusual to change it to LOWER pressure. I'd just someday check that bypass like he says. I'm used to many times using factory oil pump on hi-perf engines by just shimming that bypass spring up tighter (increasing pressure). Have found so called "high volume" pumps to be worthless, all they do is take more power to drive. They just bypass all the extra oil volume not used. If I have bypass piston valve in front of me I will just dress it up smooth with 600 sandpaper to slightly knock off any highs that might make it stick and throw it back in place (CLEAN!) provided no seizure marks on it. It needs to be able to slip and fall out in a clean dry bore with no lube in it.
 
just relax

just relax

If you are not blowing out filter cases, I'd worry about something of consequence, certainly not oil pressure. AMC is absolutely correct, installing a high flow oil pump in a good engine is a waste of money, time, and horsepower. In a perfect world, the oil pump flow would match the needs of the engine and no more. Actually you can get by with pretty low oil pressure. You only need enough oil pressure to flow enough oil to carry away the heat built up at the oil film / bearing interface due to friction generated by the shearing of the oil film. The oil merely serves to keep the metal surfaces apart and the subsequent shearing of the oil will cause the oil to boil unless it is replenished by cooler oil.
 
And it's a good thing oil pressure problems are nearly unheard of on zetecs- replacing the pump pretty much requires pulling the engine.
 
Yup, looks to me that one might have troubles getting the casting back in proper place, as in perfectly centered around seal (AND pan lineup too!) so that pump rotor not loaded sideways as to cause damage. Can you say "special tool" here? Have seen that before on certain Ford auto trans that had non-keyed front pump casting. Just bolting the part down off center could cause tremendous damage when motor started up.
 
from what i know the FRPP pump, is just billet to hold up to more power and RPM from a built motor. The only reason id replace it as apposed to just doing the valve is because shinny new parts make me smile. :laugh:

ill check the valve out and maybe replace it when it is warm outside.
 
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