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Oil Issue options: Accusump, Clevite, New pan

That's just an assumption though. Oil pumps are designed to provide 100% of the flow needs at a wide range of rpm levels for quite a long time. I'd bet these engines passed all the Ford tests with flying colors when they did longevity testing since they continued using them in the majority of their vehicles.
 
Dyoel182 said:
That's just an assumption though. Oil pumps are designed to provide 100% of the flow needs at a wide range of rpm levels for quite a long time. I'd bet these engines passed all the Ford tests with flying colors when they did longevity testing since they continued using them in the majority of their vehicles.
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Yeah, it was just an assumption, but you never know, after the bearings start to wear down due to cold starts and what not, they might not meet the same specs as they did when the engine was new. So the engine could work perfectly until it hits a certain point and then the accelerated wear beings, then bam. There's no real use worrying about it though, when my engine went due to the connecting rod bearings going I wasn't to concerned, it was just 3L time and boy was it worth it. My svt now pulls as hard as my old stage II 2008 Subaru Legacy Spec.B that was pushing 16.5 lbs of boost, now only if I had AWD to put it down :D.
 
BrApple said:
seeing as it calls for 5.8 qts of oil. even the bondurant cars had markings for 6.5 qts of oil.
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Actually Brian, mine calls for an even 7 qts (see attachment). With the Accusump removed, it still took all 7 and registered ok on the dipstick.
 

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mnewxcv said:
so for a regular svt, 6.5qt, NOT 6, right? getting an oil change tomorrow and want to be sure.
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Yes 6.5qts

Also good to read that people aren't falling into the all the oiling hype that was started in the past. With that being said I never heard of Mumm or Capaldi having oiling problems ever.
 
OK, I have a question for those of you that are overfilling your oil.
How high is your cold oil engine pressure?
My startup pressure on my analog pressure guage is shockingly high (cold) with a standard oil fill and standard synthetic oil.
Once it warms up, it runs at perfect pressure (around 40psi) I think, but can't really remember since it's been a few months since I drove it.
I don't rev it at all until the engine warms up, if I do pressure almost goes off the scale.
This is a garage kept car in the PNW.

Just curious

Mikey
 
I don't overfill, I keep the oil at the top of the "full" hashing on the DS, but I really don't see why overfilling would make much of a diff in cold start pressures.

Here's some typical data.
http://www.contour.org/ceg-vb/showpost.php?p=537107&postcount=11

Some good info in this thread.
http://www.contour.org/ceg-vb/showthread.php?t=37494

I've seen up to 140 psi driving gently away after a very cold (0ºF all day cold soak) startup.

My garage runs ~50ºF in the winter, and I see 90psi running gently down my street at 25MPH in 2nd gear.

These engines make some astronomically high cold oil pressure.
 
j2automotiveart said:
Actually Brian, mine calls for an even 7 qts (see attachment). With the Accusump removed, it still took all 7 and registered ok on the dipstick.
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What exactly do you mean calls for?

mnewxcv said:
so for a regular svt, 6.5qt, NOT 6, right? getting an oil change tomorrow and want to be sure.
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You want at least 6. I know most oil change places here (I change my own but my girlfriend takes hers in) will only do 6 quarts before charging you $5 a quart for extra so if you're taking it in I'd just get the 6 quarts and then check the level in the parking lot with your own bottle of oil.
 
I saw that picture and wondered what was so official about some paint pen scribbles. :) I think I'm running right around 7 quarts right now with my oil filter relocation lines still at full length.
 
Yeah, it was a beer fueled question, but sounded good when I asked it.....cause overfilling really won't have any affect on cold pressure...I don't think so anyway. BUT, over filling does have a detrimental long term affect since as the crankshaft rotates it will churn the oil, causing aeration and eventually sustained foam will form. This can lead to overheated motor oil, oxidation and a loss of oil pressure. Spongy aerated oil is hard to pump. It starves the engine and critical lubricated surfaces. Perhaps this is why many people turn their bearings to crap.
Also when I said standard fill, I was kind of assuming that if you had a remote filter and an Accusump, that you added enough oil to bring the level up to the full line on the dipstick....

Mikey
 
mikey said:
Yeah, it was a beer fueled question, but sounded good when I asked it.....cause overfilling really won't have any affect on cold pressure...I don't think so anyway. BUT, over filling does have a detrimental long term affect since as the crankshaft rotates it will churn the oil, causing aeration and eventually sustained foam will form. This can lead to overheated motor oil, oxidation and a loss of oil pressure. Spongy aerated oil is hard to pump. It starves the engine and critical lubricated surfaces. Perhaps this is why many people turn their bearings to crap.
Also when I said standard fill, I was kind of assuming that if you had a remote filter and an Accusump, that you added enough oil to bring the level up to the full line on the dipstick....
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Crankshafts whipping up oil is one of those leftover tales from years ago. Cars come with baffles and windage trays to keep the crank away from the oil unless you really overfill by accident (and you'd probably be leaking oil out the oil pan gasket as well).
 
mikey said:
Yeah, it was a beer fueled question, but sounded good when I asked it.....cause overfilling really won't have any affect on cold pressure...I don't think so anyway. BUT, over filling does have a detrimental long term affect since as the crankshaft rotates it will churn the oil, causing aeration and eventually sustained foam will form. This can lead to overheated motor oil, oxidation and a loss of oil pressure. Spongy aerated oil is hard to pump. It starves the engine and critical lubricated surfaces. Perhaps this is why many people turn their bearings to crap.
Also when I said standard fill, I was kind of assuming that if you had a remote filter and an Accusump, that you added enough oil to bring the level up to the full line on the dipstick....

Mikey
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Overfilling has ZERO effect on pressure. Now underfilling yes that will effect pressure if you cavitate the pump. Which will in turn aerate the oil. it's not any harder to pump aerated oil,it's just harder on the pump as it tries to flow oil and compress the air through the system.
 
Exactly.

'Crankshafts whipping up oil is one of those leftover tales from years ago.'

If that were so there would be no need for dry sumps. Despite all those oil control plates and windage trays, some of the oil still gets wrapped around the crank as long as there are turns and straight ahead G force. The major tank design criteria for dry sump return tank is arranged around the idea of how to de-aerate the oil. In a well designed system most air in oil comes from crank windage. You cannot release oil from main and rod journals and expect it not to pick up air as the crank winds shear it all to hell. Improperly designed trays can actually make the problem worse if they allow oil just thrown off crank to bounce right back up into the rotating assembly.
 
mikey said:
OK, I have a question for those of you that are overfilling your oil.
How high is your cold oil engine pressure?
My startup pressure on my analog pressure guage is shockingly high (cold) with a standard oil fill and standard synthetic oil.
Once it warms up, it runs at perfect pressure (around 40psi) I think, but can't really remember since it's been a few months since I drove it.
I don't rev it at all until the engine warms up, if I do pressure almost goes off the scale.
This is a garage kept car in the PNW.

Just curious

Mikey
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40 psi warm is a lot higher than mine. I get about 20-25 and up around 70-90 cold. That is with 5w-30 synthetic.
 
A windage tray help keep the sloshing oil from hitting the crank and helps draw the oil coming off the crank away, if the level is too high and the crank is sitting in it it makes the effort to turn the crank much higher because it is turning in oil not air, besides there is no real "air" in the crankcase at high rpm, there is blow by vapors and oil vapor that is thick enough that you probably couldn't see through a couple inches, thus the need for dry sump systems that remove oil from the crankcase and the "air" from the oil, the slots in the tray allow oil coming off the crank to drain back but the main idea is to stop sloshing oil, a "left over tale" this is certainly not, if anything it is more of an issue with higher revving, more confined crankcases on modern engines
 
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