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New To Group, New to Contours, and have 2 questions

so im getting my hoses tomorrow, autozone had to order them. I have found the upper and lower hoses, they were easy. But where are the blasted heater hoses?

Wow, this thread is all over the place!

They're there, but they're SO hidden that my Mitchel on Demand doesn't even SHOW them! Mine appear to have been replaced or moved at one point or another; they don't appear to be the factory hoses. So, I can't really give you a descrption as to where they're supposed to be. Just start at the left side of the firewall, and work forward...

As for rotors, they're all junk nowadays. Even the TRW's and that are worse than ever before. Slotted or drilled rotors will definately be a 500% improvement, but as the other guys here said, they're pricey.

To me, it's the old "disposable society" thing at work. Produce a product with a very attractive price, without regard to quality, and people will buy it, irrespective of whether or not they have to replace them in a year.

I've ALWAYS hung Goodwrench rotors/drums/brakes on my trucks. They lasted a long time. Now, it doesn't even matter anymore. The $28 rotors from Advance, or the $145 Goodwrench rotors - neither are like they used to be. And of course, with the wife and daughter performing record breaking stops, they wear even faster. Did you know that my wife can stop my pickup truck from 80 to zero in only 60 feet? Quicker if there's a stop sign...:laugh:
Just my 2 cents....

Rick
 
thanks ill take a look in the morning.

Also, rotors and drums are getting ridiculously cheap and poor in quality. i just did rear drums and i got the good ones which were only around 50 compared to 20 for both! After changing them i realized that the ones that had been put on the back were so crappy the had actually warped. I had previously been told that drums were really hard to warp or that it may not even be possible. Stuff is so crappy these days...even if im only 17 ive heard enough to know that the stuff today is horribly made.

just a thought dont take it to seriously
devan
 
drums seem to be made of a harder metal than discs (but maybe it's just my imagination). if you mount your shoes correctly, i don't see why you should have any issues with drum warpage.
 
i didn't do it. the idiots who had the car before me did. All i know is i had a pulse while breaking, which was worst at 30ish mph. Which was gone when i replaces the rear brakes.
 
im still in the process of working on my cooling system. All i can say i i hate where they put those hoses, like 1 was easy to get to and the others were the biggest pains ever. i replaced the heater inlet hoses and the upper hose. This and drainin the system took me alittle over 5hours. gah... the are in the most in accessible spots thought of.

Ive decided to leave the lower hose and heater outlet till it blows then i already have the tube. today i still have to drain(the secondtime) flush, the refill.

I do have a question out of all this. Is their and easy way to get to the drain screw on the radiator?
 
sadly there is no easy way. i just undo the connection from the lower hose to the hard heater hose line that runs under the engine and bolts to the oil pan. that will drain the majority of the cooling system.
 
good idea... once i get th radiator drain plug back on...with a whole lot of cursing.
 
I do have a question out of all this. Is their and easy way to get to the drain screw on the radiator?

Take the deflector off the bottom and set it aside. After that there's a part that is bolted right there, under the petcock, by the lower hose. I can't remember for the life of me what it is, but it was in the way. The petcock on mine was plastic, but, a good set of pliers and some patience made it come right out. I sprayed a little PB Blaster on the threads once I had it loose. Although it's plastic, the threads were still a little ratty.

Hope this helps...
Rick
 
well thanks for the help guys. im going back out to finish up, shouldn't take me more then an hour now.
 
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