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New bushings installed $800?

H

Hodge Podge

New CEG'er
Joined
Sep 6, 2003
Messages
25
Location
Ohio
My 2000 csvt's front end has been completely shot, it pulls hard to the right under load and there is an audible pop when I slightly turn left. It is all over the road at higher speed. It's the bushings, the left one is completely gone, and the right one is nearly there. I took my car to Menekie to a guy I'm pretty cool with and he said the bushings will go for about $100, and the install will be another $700 because he has to take the tranny out to get to the bushings?? I haven't gone through with it as of yet. I have found bushings for my car for like $16. Anyone with any type of experience here would be greatly appreciated.
 
What bushings are you needing to replace?

There is no bushing that requires the trans or motor to come out. The sway bar bushings can be reached from the side and from underneath. It is very tight in there though.

That's the only thing I can think of that he may think needs the tranny to come out.
 
I don't know exactly, I'll have to call and ask. The info was given to my roomate, and then passed to me. He just told me bushings, left is shot, and right is nearly gone. And the tranny would have to come out to replace them. Ill find out asap.
 
Surely he is talking about the lower control arm bushings. For left side the "book" way is to unbolt and lift the engine and tranny to clear space to remove bolt. So tranny doesn't have to come out but quite a few book labor hours none the less. $700 is a rape job though as right side is easy.

Many here, myself included have simply cut the one forward bolt off on left side and replaced it upside down with nut on top. Carbide hacksaw blade and about 40 minutes of sawing cut the hardened bolt for me. Would have been quicker but limited space makes slow work of it.
 
ya, id think it would be the control arm cause I have limited control of my car. so 700 is a jail house rape on the labor, and I know my ford dealer would charge even more. Should I look into doing my self, my bro is some what inclined with cars. He's got a 3.0 cougar n all, but he has never touched the suspension.
 
If he was comfortable doing the 3.0 swap himself then he should be more than comfortable turning a few bolts for the suspension.
 
That's true, assuming he did the swap himself, but he didn't, I never said he did. We will see what we can do. Does anyone have any idea what the labor should cost, if $700 is too much.
 
It would be CAKE to put in new LCA's. Dorman puts out new LCA's w/ new balljoints for $40 on RockAuto.com. It'd be easy because your 2000 has the 2-bolt style. The tranny doesn't really get in the way. If you are gentle you can probably do a bit of prying to fish the bolt out. Worked on my ATX w/ 4-bolt LCA's.
 
Hodge Podge said:
That's true, assuming he did the swap himself, but he didn't, I never said he did.
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I never said you said he did. :) Total costs shouldnt be that much if you can find a shop that will let you bring the arms and doesnt overcharge you for them right off the bat. Plus you'll want to fork out the $50-75 afterward for an alignment once everything has the slop taken out.
 
I'm sure a local CEGer would install anything you need at a much smaller cost. How far away are you from Detroit or Cleveland? A few CEGers in each area. Post in the W. Great Lakes.
 
The passenger side LCA is fairly easy, biggest problem is popping out ( and reinstalling later) the balljoint. I found it a PITA to remove. Its should be much easier if you jam something into the steering knuckle to pry it open more.

The drivers side is much harder because as stated the tranny gets in the way of removing the LCA bolts. Dropping the subframe or cutting the bolts is usually the only way to remove the bolts. I got a mechanic to do the drivers side LCA as I didnt have a hoist and a sawzall or grinder. If I did it again I'd borrow/rent the tools and do it myself the ghetto - bolt cutting way and save a good chunk of money.
 
enduro said:
The passenger side LCA is fairly easy, biggest problem is popping out ( and reinstalling later) the balljoint. I found it a PITA to remove. Its should be much easier if you jam something into the steering knuckle to pry it open more.

The drivers side is much harder because as stated the tranny gets in the way of removing the LCA bolts. Dropping the subframe or cutting the bolts is usually the only way to remove the bolts. I got a mechanic to do the drivers side LCA as I didnt have a hoist and a sawzall or grinder. If I did it again I'd borrow/rent the tools and do it myself the ghetto - bolt cutting way and save a good chunk of money.
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What did the labor run you on that work?
 
I got the written quote today. I'm just gonna give it straight.

Parts-
sway bar repair x2: $52.00
Control arm/Bush Kit x2: $93.00
MISC. Control arm/bush kit x2: $64.00

Labor-
Lower, right side at 1.3 hours: $117.00
Lower, left side at 3.4 hours: $306.00
4 wheel alignment: $70.00

This puts me at $670 parts and labor for the suspension. I was also quoted:
$60.00 for a serpentine belt and $75.00 to install it.

Totals parts: $300.00
Total labor: $540.00
Tax: $60.00
Total: Just shy of $900.00

I'm really thinking of buying the parts my self, and going at it to see what I can do.

Given the description of the problem, and the way it drives in my OP is my car safe to drive, even carefully? I don't want to cause more damage. Any help or feedback is appreciated.
 
How can that be when no one makes bushings for the LCA's. You have to buy LCAs with the integrated bushings. Did you not read my post about finding someone local? Buy the 2 bolt LCA's ($100 a pair) and have a CEGer put em in. They will have brand new balljoints riveted to them as well. I'll but them in for $100. Drive to Grand Rapids. Won't take me more than an hour to do the LCA's. Will save you about $600. I'll even let you buy me lunch.
 
todras said:
How can that be when no one makes bushings for the LCA's. You have to buy LCAs with the integrated bushings. Did you not read my post about finding someone local? Buy the 2 bolt LCA's ($100 a pair) and have a CEGer put em in. They will have brand new balljoints riveted to them as well. I'll but them in for $100. Drive to Grand Rapids. Won't take me more than an hour to do the LCA's. Will save you about $600. I'll even let you buy me lunch.
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AMEN. Mechanics are out to RAPE you. As long as everything goes smoothly, an hour is completely practical in changing out LCA's. Most CEG'ers who would on their own vehicles have things like LCA bolts and nuts, axle nuts, etc, lying around, so even a "problem" won't add much time! Ditch the mechanic.
 
Listen to Todras on this one. He is a good guy who won't screw you over. The trip up there, fixing it, and driving back will most likely be the same amount of time for the mechanics to "fix" it. Not only that but you can learn how to fix it yourself if you ever need to.
 
todras said:
How can that be when no one makes bushings for the LCA's. You have to buy LCAs with the integrated bushings. Did you not read my post about finding someone local? Buy the 2 bolt LCA's ($100 a pair) and have a CEGer put em in. They will have brand new balljoints riveted to them as well. I'll but them in for $100. Drive to Grand Rapids. Won't take me more than an hour to do the LCA's. Will save you about $600. I'll even let you buy me lunch.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I actually missed your post, I went on to page 2. It sounds like a good deal and I appreciate it. I'm trying to drive it as little as possible though cause it's all over the road. A long drive wont be possible. My bro is having one of his buddies look at his '00 cougar's suspension this week, maybe I'll have him take a look at mine too. I assume they are pretty similar.

What are some tools that will be required to do this.

...and yeah, you would be in for a damn good lunch after fixing this. Is the .99 cent menu ok?
 
Hodge Podge said:
What are some tools that will be required to do this.
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Since you wont be pushing in bushings or balljoints you wont need a press or anything else special. All you should need is some sockets, some wrenches, a mallet, gloves, PB Blaster and some time.
 
You'll need a large pry bar, air compressor, air hammer with attachment and maybe a pickle fork. You'll also need a Sawzall to cut one of the bolt heads off to remove the bolt. You install that bolt upside down on reinstall and then cut off the bolt tip so it doesn't rub on the trans. So you should just by 4 new bolts with nuts. The Cougar is identical to the Contour. Only difference in cars is the body.
 
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