• Welcome to the Contour Enthusiasts Group, the best resource for the Ford Contour and Mercury Mystique.

    You can register to join the community.

my very first 3l..

C

csvtguy

CEG'er
Joined
Nov 26, 2009
Messages
169
Location
denver
today im backing in my black 98.5 svt for the first time prepping to pull the blown 2.5. i may need some guidance help
 
Today I unplugged many of the sensors hoses etc thanks to sjon for stoppin in good to have local help. Tomo I will finish removing the rest of hoses wires etc and start hackin at the axles
 
Wow I thought I was in pretty good shape untill I got to the axles... I'm sure its been posted before but how in the world do I pull these axles out of the trans without ripping the boots??? PLEASE HELP!!
 
If you are having issues removing a stock motor you might want to think twice about a 3L swap. Anyway, go to the parts store and pick up a Chilton's/Haynes manual for install/removal help. You can also download a PDF to remove the motor from here. You might need to register with NECO to download it so register if you need to. I'd get both because the books are always nice to have and are pretty cheap.
 
axles are easy. on the passanger side just unbolt the carrier bearing and slide the half shaft out of the transmission. or you can just take a hammer and tap at the axle and leave the half shaft installed for now. on the drivers side a large screw driver could work. otherwise get a slide hammer with axle tool.

you don't need to pull the axle from the hub. just hand the axles out of the way.
 
Yea i was just at his house yesterday, hes got the ball joint disconnected on the drivers side. I think we need to get a larger pry bar or something to remove it from the diff.
 
SJon85 said:
Yea i was just at his house yesterday, hes got the ball joint disconnected on the drivers side. I think we need to get a larger pry bar or something to remove it from the diff.
Click to expand...


go to autozone and rent the slide hammer and FWD axle puller adapter

slide hammer PN: OEM27033
FWD adapter PN: OEM27058


make sure everything is out of the way, hook the adapter behind the inner CV cup, and give the slide hammer a couple good hard pulls. will pull the axle out every time.
 
Thanks striker your always of much help. I dont think he has very good internet access so I will let him know right now.
 
right on fellas!!! thanks for all the replys! striker you the man i will call tomo and see where i can rent one.........axle puller........i know exactly what that looks like maybe i can pick up a brain there too. im tryin to keep the newbie questions to a minimum. but im still gonna do it blackcoog ;) shout out to homie sjon! he answers most my noob questions
 
ok just got home with the axle puller and slide hammer rentals... hopefully everything goes smooth
 
slide hammer will be the answer to your prayers... take it from me!

although, i've seen pix of engine being removed with the axles just hanging from the diffs. (maybe u don't HAVE to remove them?)

good luck! i'll be watching this thread. PM with any questions.

...and YES! IT'S WORTH IT!
 
thanks ill be lookin for any insight on making things move along easier. well i had tons of interuptions today but i was able to get the axle on driver side out. but i ended up accidently pullin the rubber boot at the spindle going into trans? deeming my rental damn near useless. the boot itself is fine no rips but popped off at the spindle thingy? if im even saying that correctly. looks like it will pop right back on. anyways axle is loose and detached now . when i noticed the boot on the ball joint was cracked i flipped out and thought i ripped it out of carelessness but when i notcied on the passenger side it was even worse so guess they needed to be changed. i dont see how i could get the ball joints off... theres no like nut or bolt... anyways tomo after work i will be removing the passenger side axle at the half shaft... any special tricks to that? looks like theres a bracket on the middle of the axle just remove that?
 
Most people replace the whole control arm which you should probably do since it didn't look like they have ever been replaced. You can also just replace the ball joint but you have to grind those rivets off, I just did this on my car.
 
SJon85 said:
Most people replace the whole control arm which you should probably do since it didn't look like they have ever been replaced. You can also just replace the ball joint but you have to grind those rivets off, I just did this on my car.
Click to expand...

Ya I was afraid of that.. How much did your complete control arms cost you? If its significantly cheper I will grind the rivets out and just go ball joints
 
it depends on what type of control arms you have. if you have 2 bolt arms, the cost of the complete arm is not that much more than just the ball joints. if you have the 4 bolt arms then the ball joints are quite a bit cheaper (less than half or even quarter the price).
 
Im pretty sure he has the two bolt from what I saw the other day. And since my car only has 60k miles I only did the ball joints on mine because I ripped them. But you can always worry about that after the swap.
 
word just got home gonna check them now keep in mind everyone interested in helping me that i basically doing this all on the fly. ive never pulled an engine out ... i have always worked on all of my cars but never done an engine swap..and i dont even have a 3l engine in my possession!!! lol i will buy an engine but wanna get this blown 2.5 out first.. and i wanna go cheapest route but reliable...dude im broke but i want this car runnin so bad. guess i could take some pics... ill try to take some
 
i'd consider timing the "pulling out of the old engine" as close to "putting in of the new engine" as possible. Keeps your memory of where everything was / how everything looked beforehand clearer.

just a suggestion.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top