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MA 3.0l swap need help have $$$

S

slammedsvt

CEG'er
Joined
Nov 27, 2010
Messages
50
Location
Oxford MA
Im two weeks into this swap i have the old 2.5 ready to pull and the new 3.0l i had my dad here helping but my nana passed away and hes back in florida for the winter. due to the circumstances i need someone whos done this or wants to learn like me to help. i can pay for your time let me know your price and ill let you know if i can do it.
 
Wouldnt you prefer to just ask for help on the forum from guys that have accomplished this swap (like me and plenty of others)?

Given the circumstances which lead to your situation, Im sure many of us will assist where we can in guiding you to completion of your swap. Granted, there will be few cold-hearted fellows out there that will sneer at the thought of giving step by step instructions, but if all else fails I would be more than happy to personally guide you through and even give you my phone number so you can text/call for assistance. Obviously I wont be able to give you a physical hand to assist, but i can offer instructions and words of encouragement, especially through your difficult time.
 
i really appreciate it i have a build thread open ill probably get back going after the holidays. i got my cummins to get through for the next couple of weeks. i just hate having porjects lying around. the old motor is two motor mounts away from being out i really need a second pair of hands than anything. with the hours i work runing my transport business its hard to spend time with my wife and kids nevermind trying to meet friends that like cars. if no response from the add ill take you up on the offer ill just go back at it myself. i did most of it already solo. i just dont want to be stuck when im trying to pull a 600 pound motor and tranny from the car alone lol. thanks for your support cant wait to get this car back driving i love my truck 800hp 06 cummins dually but i like that car for some reason.
 
I understand what your saying. My project is taking me much longer than I had anticipated due to my work schedule and needing to spend time with my kids as well. Most of this work can be accomplished by one person. I have done many motor swaps by myself, one of which was without an engine hoist which I regretted terribly the next day when my back went out from lifting the motor out by hand, and you can accomplish it by yourself to granted you have the right tools.

Maybe taking a break for now and waiting till the holidays pass is a good idea. Get a fresh start in a couple of weeks and most of your problems will be at the back of your mind to allow the need to focus on what needs to be done to finish your swap.

Enjoy the cummins, I love turbo diesels lol, and if you dont find any help my offer still stands.
 
hey murky i got the old one out. my buddy let me use a bay at his garage. if you could send me that step by step list i could reaaaallllllly appreciate it i dont know if im going to take on the porting myself or have a machine shop port them i got the bits and the bugzuki plates at his shop just dont know how hard it is. i have to have my car out of there by tuesday next week im taking the next few days off to do it. once again thank s for your support so far.
 
Start with removing the valve covers from the 2.5
Remove the Crank Pulley (normal thread left loosey)
Remove the power steering pump (pulley has to come off first)
Remove the Timing Cover
Take not of the position of the pulse wheel on the crank shaft as this is how the pulse wheel on the 3.0 will have to be (basically you rotate the pulse wheel 180 degrees on the 3.0 and use the 3.0 pulse wheel)
Remove Alternator (if not already removed) and alternator bracket
Remove Coolant Bypass and all coolant hoses on the engine, you can leave the waterpump on, I removed mine but I used the 3L pump.


Now youre going to have to remove the timing tensioner on whichever head you are going to remove to get the passenger mount out. Once you remove the tensioner you will have enough slack to get the timing chain off the cam gears for that head. Remove the head.
Remove the mount
You can remove the oil cooler if you wish to use it on the next engine. I chose not to and have no issue with the oil.
Remove the oil pressure sending unit. Next to the oil cooler and above where the AC compressor was.
Remove the exhaust manifolds.
Remove the half shaft carrier bracket located on the back of the engine.

Im pretty sure thats all you have to remove from the 2.5

If you have not removed the tranny from the engine you can do so before or after the work stated above. Completely up to you. It is easier to remove the majority of these components with the engine in a stand as opposed to on the floor. If you want to do it in the stand then you need to remove the trans first.
 
Youre going to want to remove the same components from the 3.0 as you did with the 2.5 since the items that I mentioned are going to be swapped onto the 3.0 from the 2.5.

The crank pulley is a bit difficult to remove. There are two areas where you can place a wrench. One being a smaller 13mm at the tip and the other being a 15/16" wrench further up the shaft aft of the accessory pulley. Take the 15/16" wrench and you are going to want to loosen this in the opposite fashion than normal bolts. Righty loosey. It is a bit of a challenge but with enough attempts you can do it.

On the other side of the engine you are going to remove the flex plate (looks like a flywheel, but its not)
You will see the crank bushing that you can either try to remove using the fluid pressure method, or just cut it with a cutting wheel. If you cut it, try to make it as flush as possible, but a 1/8" sticking out will be ok.

When it comes to porting you can wait for the bugzuki plates to come in, or you can use the LIM gaskets and sharp wood screw to scribe the outline of the inner circles of the gasket. This will give you a template for porting.

Please use the rag and grease method to keep the shavings out of the runners and port only after installing the valve covers.
 
Forgot to mention the cutting of the tabs on the back side of the motor for the alternator bracket. Take the bracket and attempt to mount it to the back of the engine. You will see exactly what gets in the way when you try. Then cut the tabs off that are in the way.

For the passenger side mount, its kind of a cut to fit type of thing, but I did notice that your going to cut (with the mount in your hand hold it as if you are looking at the engine from the passenger fender) the lower right hand section at an angle (to make the 90* angle into two 45* so basically this "_| " into this " / ") take about a 3/4" inch of the corner off. On the left hand side far forward (the part that slopes down) on the left of the centerline you want to cut a flat spot into it. When I cut mine it made a hole because the mount is hollow inside. Keep test fitting it until you are able to get the mount to slip in between the heads. When you put it in angle it in from the top do not try to slide it straight in.
 
A tip:
Keep all of you bolts and nuts with the components you remove. Put them in a bag or tape them to the part, but keep them together. There is nothing more frustrating than trying to sort through a pile of bolts and nuts/
 
Feel free to ask any questions. I am on here everyday almost all times of the day. Yes I have a job, but my position allows me to do pretty much what I want, and helping people is something I enjoy doing :shocked:
 
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