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Look at my new Sub/Box Setup!

:eek:


fyi, the clear material on my enclosure is 3/4" lexan, not some flimsy piece of plexiglass....

Be sure the clear panel you choose to use is as sturdy as the wood it is attaching to. Otherwise it will have a detrimental effect on the performance of the subwoofer system.
 
As long as the glass is thick. If its thick then your fine. I thought Bob would be here to post pics of his famous system. So I'll do it for him. Everytime I see this thing I drool.
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WHOOAA!! That thing is awesome! And elaborate too.... I mean I've heard of hydraulic hood-lifts, but hydraulic amp-lifts? Jeez. And that wiring job under the amp is freaking clean. Plus, the whole setup is obviously so incredibly powerful, but leaves so much trunk space! Inspiring build. I bet that was pricey.

I won't have THAT much plexiglass on the back of my box; it's a much smaller area, so I think it should be strong enough.
 
not to mention that the sub your refering to is a 4ohm sub which is not going to draw the most power from your amp like 2 sub bridged to bring your ohms to 2 ohm....just some info to help you decide.so even though your hooking it up to a 2 channel amp your only going to get half power from your amp...
 
I thought he only had components and the custom kick panels.

Nope... I don't have components in the kicks. I have point-source drivers in the custom kick panels, 8" subs in the front doors for SQ, and then the two 12" subs in the custom enclosure that were strictly for spl measurements (litterally 3 seconds at a show and nothing more) but they were never on otherwise.

In fact, the 12" subs and their enclosure have been out of the car for about a year now, since I take them out for track days and haven't had a reason to put them back in.

Wow.....that is a nice clean install.

Thank you


WHOOAA!! That thing is awesome! And elaborate too.... I mean I've heard of hydraulic hood-lifts, but hydraulic amp-lifts? Jeez.

They are not hydraulic. They are pneumatic struts from a fox-body mustang hatchback


And that wiring job under the amp is freaking clean. Plus, the whole setup is obviously so incredibly powerful, but leaves so much trunk space! Inspiring build. I bet that was pricey.

Take a guess at how much RMS power I have with those amps.

The entire install (building the kicks, modifying the front doors and glove box, building the sub box, amp rack, trim panels and false floor, running the wires) including materials was only $3,500 which was an awesome deal. That of course did not include the equipment.
 
I thought he only had components and the custom kick panels. Wow.....that is a nice clean install.

He didn't have the subs installed with him at Spring Zing since he was racing, and the subs would of been extra weight, so he removed them...
 
You can be 16 and not wanna show off the looks... My amps are facing different directions, not even bolted down, wire's everywhere, my sub box isn't even carpeted cause I built it and got too lazy plus i kinda like how it looks like a peice of :censored::censored::censored::censored: with epoxy and rubber nails all hanging off it. people see it and think its a POS :crazy: kind of a bass "sleeper" and there's no grill or LED's what so ever. Not to mention I had to make another trunk floor that looks absolutely horrid cause the carpet is peeling off in the middle, but hey, I'm the lazy type. Then again, I did buy an electronic fuse holder that has a blue LED readout which I love to show off ;) Of course...if I did see a system with LED's and spinning grills and all that jazz AND it sounded good...i'd prolly be more surprised than a :censored::censored::censored::censored:ty looking trunk sounding good...
 
not to mention that the sub your refering to is a 4ohm sub which is not going to draw the most power from your amp like 2 sub bridged to bring your ohms to 2 ohm....just some info to help you decide.so even though your hooking it up to a 2 channel amp your only going to get half power from your amp...

Uuhhh.... Wha...? 0.o
 
I got my new, roomier sealed slant-face box in the mail two days ago and promptly installed it. I sounds better than the tiny bandpass box. I still favor bandpass sound, but this speaker is clearly not built for a bandpass box, so I'm going to leave the system alone for a little while and focus on getting my exhaust mods installed now (Magnaflow hi-flow racing cat and resonator), and then get my new(er) tranny installed before my surrent one drops out on the pavement on the way to work.


not to mention that the sub your refering to is a 4ohm sub which is not going to draw the most power from your amp like 2 sub bridged to bring your ohms to 2 ohm....just some info to help you decide.so even though your hooking it up to a 2 channel amp your only going to get half power from your amp...

Wow... So my alleged 1,200watt sub, being bridged to my 1,500watt amp, is really only pulling a max of 750watts from the amp? It dims the crap outta my headlights every time it hits whenever I have it cranked up. Would a mere 750watts be capable of doing that to a V6 engine/alternator? Is there a bigger alternator available for the SVT Contour..? Do you think my battery could be weak or something? It's like 4 years old and has been drained and dead several times now... 0.o

What about those things called "farad capacitors"? I've seen them installed in large, multi-thousand-watt competition systems, but is this too small a system to put something like that into?
 
contotur come with 130amp stock which is plenty enough for 1000RMS or so with no dimming. The thing is, they use very tiny wire for power and grounds. Upgrade the wiring and your dimming problems will go away. I had the big 3 done (upgrading wiring) and a regular battery with a kinetik HC800 in the truck running around 1700RMS or so off a kicker 2500.1, I could keep the voltage above 13.2 at all times and there was very minumum dimming full tilt. Upgrade the wiring and 750wrms will not dim.
 
Wow... So my alleged 1,200watt sub, being bridged to my 1,500watt amp, is really only pulling a max of 750watts from the amp? It dims the crap outta my headlights every time it hits whenever I have it cranked up. Would a mere 750watts be capable of doing that to a V6 engine/alternator? Is there a bigger alternator available for the SVT Contour..? Do you think my battery could be weak or something? It's like 4 years old and has been drained and dead several times now... 0.o

What about those things called "farad capacitors"? I've seen them installed in large, multi-thousand-watt competition systems, but is this too small a system to put something like that into?

Lets talk realistic here. Your amp is not a 1500w amp. Your sub is not a 1200w sub. You have to look at the RMS ratings of equipment to get an honest perspective on things. Peak power is basicly just an advertising gimic. I thought there was a new industry rule passed a year or two ago that prohibited companies from advertising peak power.
The true specs on your amp:
RMS Power Rating:
4 ohms: 300 watts x 2 chan.
2 ohms: 380 watts x 2 chan.
Bridged, @ 4 ohms: 760 watts x 1 chan

Your sub is rated for 400w max RMS. If you put a true 1200w to that sub you would smoke it with the slightest increase on the gain. (ok, I may be a little extreme on that, but you get the idea)

So that being said, you are putting 760w to a 400w sub. You are "overpowering" it. This is not bad, you just have to be careful of how you have your amp setup to avoid blowing the sub.

As for your lights dimming, it means little more than your amplifier is highly inefficient. A more efficient amp pushing the same wattage wont dim your lights at all. The alternators on our cars are among the higher output found in vehicles. I'm pushing 890w RMS all together and I have very little dimming issues (and I dont have the upgraded grounds as stated above) . Its mainly my 4-channel that does it, My sub amplifier stays under 110 degrees (acording to amp-link) and doesn't dim a thing by itself even pushing out 550w rms.
IMHO caps are great, Some people hate them but they are a very cheap alternative to an optima battery and should fix the dimming problem. I would recommend upgrading your main ground under the hood like stated above first though because this will fix most dimming issues.
 
contotur come with 130amp stock which is plenty enough for 1000RMS or so with no dimming. The thing is, they use very tiny wire for power and grounds. Upgrade the wiring and your dimming problems will go away. I had the big 3 done (upgrading wiring) and a regular battery with a kinetik HC800 in the truck running around 1700RMS or so off a kicker 2500.1, I could keep the voltage above 13.2 at all times and there was very minumum dimming full tilt. Upgrade the wiring and 750wrms will not dim.
What all did you upgrade wire wise?
 
positive wire from battery to altenator, ground from battery to frame and block to frame, all done with 1/0 plus instead of grounding the amps to the floor in the back I had 4 runs of 1/0 running back (2 pos and 2 grounds)
 
Alright, I've settled on a system that allows both strong sound and plentiful trunk space, and even has a little bling to show as well without looking too ostentatious or ricey. The grill is by Panasonic.

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This was one of the best threads ever. I wish I had seen it sooner because I seriously would have donated better equiptment just to free up space in my house and know that your system wouldn't wind up sounding like crap. At least you ditched the bandpass, that was a step in the right direction. Remember one thing when it comes to audio; Do it right the first time otherwise you'll end spending much more than your original budget just to fix the mistakes. This site has some of the most knowledgable people I've come across on any audio forum and they're always willing to offer advice. If your new to building an audio system or are uncertain about whether or not equiptment will be compatible, take a few minutes to ask questions. Trust me, spend a bit time on here and I'm certain you'll have a much better sounding setup in the near future. ;)
 
What's wrong with bandpass enclosures?

Nothing's wrong with bandpass; in fact, they generally have deeper, thicker sound and look a lot better IMO. Their downside is that, having two chambers instead of one (like a sealed or ported box), they need to be much larger. That was my mistake in choosing that tiny bandpass; I was looking for some more trunk space, but small bandpasses generally sound horrible unless you get just the right sub with just the right box.
 
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