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longer 60-110 times?

well I shifted to 5th before hitting 110 in the SE with the 2.5, and I'm shifting at the same time now. like I said before, I have no tach in this thing yet, so any idea of rpms is a guess.

or are you all trying to tell me I should need to leave it in a lower gear longer with the new engine? that just doesn't make any since with an engine with less top end power...
 
KAOS_3.0 said:
I dont think it would be a good idea to dyno the car before I get the trans work done.
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You know, I seriously doubt that your car is making THAT much power, the way you've put it together. Plenty of people have driven around with mild 3Ls and stock diffs without any problems. It's when you get stupid with it and start dropping the clutch and shifting hard that ???? starts breaking.
 
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really? I just remember getting a lot of cautionary advice about the open diff with the torque from the 3.0.

and I still dont see why some people think my car shouldnt be making power, people are putting down significant numbers with untuned builds.
 
dont worry about your diff on a dyno. wheel hop is the killer of diffs in these cars. if you shift properly you shouldnt worry about hurting the diff either even on fast shifts. (big difference between a hard shift and a fast shift.
 
thanks guys, how long does it normally take to tune a car?

I'm assuming just a dyno run would easily be under one hour, right?
so 70 bucks or so would at least let me know how far off my car is?
 
KAOS_3.0 said:
thanks guys, how long does it normally take to tune a car?

I'm assuming just a dyno run would easily be under one hour, right?
so 70 bucks or so would at least let me know how far off my car is?
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Well some places charge $50 for an afr reading with dyno :shrug: So no more then 70 dollars.

Tuning can take up to 3-4 hours depending on the tuners skill and what your car's afr is running at right now.

This is minus...a programmable chip....or an xcal.
 
well I have an X3 and a base tune from NPG for the taurus injectors, so I wouldn't imagine it being too far out.

it tripped a cell a while back for a fault in the rear bank down draft o2 heater, and for fuel trim corrected full rich from lean condition on the same bank. I mentioned this to some people in pm and the consensus was that if there wasn't an obvious problem back there, that it was probably a bug in the tune, and to reset the DTCs. I checked, and everything back there looked kosher, so I reset the DTC's and they havent come back up. I will say that after some driving, the car seems to have "learned" some, but in a fashion that seems to have reduced some of the output.

so yeah, I'm definately interested in seeing what an A/F monitor on a dyno turns up. I guess this brings me to a place I was at with the crap 02 engine, attempting to datalog it with the X3. I have no uego controller or wideband though, so how accurate would any of that effort be? would it be worth looking at? would I have to get my laptop going, or will the X3 store the data long enough to plug it into my PC?

thanks
 
KAOS_3.0 said:
really? I just remember getting a lot of cautionary advice about the open diff with the torque from the 3.0.
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yeah well driving on the road, not on the dyno. take a dyno jet. the two large rollers are connected together, the diff isn't going to operate because the wheels can only for one turn at the same speed and your not going around a corner where the diff is required to work ...
 
well I didn't touch any internals or do anything too out of the ordinary, but it does only have a cheapo NPG base tune, so I'm thinking I either have a bad downdraft in the rear bank, or I just need to get a dyno tune.
 
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