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Light Bar
- Thread starter KennyT772
- Start date
what do you mean by a light bar? like on the roof or something like a Jeep?
zorrex
Enjoys the Abuse
Possibly through the grille area. Upper grille of course.
umm ...... 
if you wanted some extra light you could have gotten some driving lights that would have fit in the lower grill openning. would have looked alot better, imho .....
if you wanted some extra light you could have gotten some driving lights that would have fit in the lower grill openning. would have looked alot better, imho .....
mmc757
Veteran CEG'er
Wow. I really think thats going to catch on. Maybe you could fab up some kits and start selling them!:nonono:
Now you need a lift kit though...
Now you need a lift kit though...
blu_fuz
New Member Classroom vulture
"Rally Sport Edition"
Smokinjoe
Hard-core CEG'er
You guys are sooo mean for not embracing these "wonderful" modifications.
Now throw a rusted hood on there to complete the ugly as hell look. :laugh:
Now throw a rusted hood on there to complete the ugly as hell look. :laugh:
98Mystique2
CEG'er
it's still not as bad as this guy
You probably cant tell by the picture but he's got about 10 washers stacked on the one side of the light...
this is a better one
You probably cant tell by the picture but he's got about 10 washers stacked on the one side of the light...
this is a better one
95_Mystique
Hard-core CEG'er
"Rally Sport Edition"
atleast someone understands what he's doing!
SVT-R-US
CEG'er
:shocked: WOW! :nonono:
oh I understand. still doesn't look right. maybe putting the lights in the grill opening, or going with some driving lights in the lower grill would work. or at least center the lights in front of the grill openning.
I had a set of optilux driving lights on my tempo and they where 55 watt lights. well one burned out so I got 100 watt bulbs. well what I didn't know was the bulb was actually 35 watt and the optics made them 55 watt. well let me tell you, they where bright. the idle of the engine would change when I turned them on. But according to my father, when he was out after a really bad storm and there was alot of fog, he had no trouble seeing at all :laugh:
@BrApple - Optics do not change the current draw of the bulb and only focus output. Wattage is wattage. 200w of power will make the idle change as you are loading up your alternator.
If you are using a 'driving' beam pattern the light will flare in fog and essentially make you blind. 'Fog' beam patterns are flat and do not allow stray light up and down to prevent light flare, helping you see in incliment weather. 'Driving' lights are setup like highbeams in that all light is directed out, not cut off. The exception to the rule is a projector based light as those can create a pencil or spot beam without stray light. What you describe makes no sense. I don't get why I have to explain this to you, you should know better.
Real fog lights have bulbs with a shield on them (like low beam bulbs) driving lights do not (like high beam bulbs).
To those who reccomended a set of driving lights instead of these, I have already gone through 1 set of Hella Optilux 4" lights in the fog holes, and 2 sets of Walmart lights. The roads are simply too rough in the UP, and rocks crack the lenses in a matter of months. I'm done spending money on lights that will break, and now have a setup that may not look very nice, but is incredibly functional. I can see farther over crests because the lights are mounted high, and farther due to the more ideal optics of larger reflectors. I could spend a couple hundred on a set of projector fogs, brackets, and shields, or I could spend less than $100 and have much better lighting. Not to mention I'm not blinding people with HID's, and I'm making the roads safer for me. The existing set I bought second hand for $25, and the 2nd set from Amazon for $63. My car is rusting out, the paint is in terrible shape, and it's worth maybe $1500. I'm not going to spend a lot of money on it.
I don't care if most of you don't like them. These will at least be used compared to most of the R.I.C.E. lights on SUV's today. They have already lit up 5 deer on my trip from Houghton to Muskegon. Another set of 500FF's are on order for the center and the current 500's are going on the outside for corner lighting.
I really need to pull the bar off and paint everything and then fab up a bumper support to keep the lights from vibrating.
Here is the light output with lows+highs+500s
If you are using a 'driving' beam pattern the light will flare in fog and essentially make you blind. 'Fog' beam patterns are flat and do not allow stray light up and down to prevent light flare, helping you see in incliment weather. 'Driving' lights are setup like highbeams in that all light is directed out, not cut off. The exception to the rule is a projector based light as those can create a pencil or spot beam without stray light. What you describe makes no sense. I don't get why I have to explain this to you, you should know better.
Real fog lights have bulbs with a shield on them (like low beam bulbs) driving lights do not (like high beam bulbs).
To those who reccomended a set of driving lights instead of these, I have already gone through 1 set of Hella Optilux 4" lights in the fog holes, and 2 sets of Walmart lights. The roads are simply too rough in the UP, and rocks crack the lenses in a matter of months. I'm done spending money on lights that will break, and now have a setup that may not look very nice, but is incredibly functional. I can see farther over crests because the lights are mounted high, and farther due to the more ideal optics of larger reflectors. I could spend a couple hundred on a set of projector fogs, brackets, and shields, or I could spend less than $100 and have much better lighting. Not to mention I'm not blinding people with HID's, and I'm making the roads safer for me. The existing set I bought second hand for $25, and the 2nd set from Amazon for $63. My car is rusting out, the paint is in terrible shape, and it's worth maybe $1500. I'm not going to spend a lot of money on it.
I don't care if most of you don't like them. These will at least be used compared to most of the R.I.C.E. lights on SUV's today. They have already lit up 5 deer on my trip from Houghton to Muskegon. Another set of 500FF's are on order for the center and the current 500's are going on the outside for corner lighting.
I really need to pull the bar off and paint everything and then fab up a bumper support to keep the lights from vibrating.
Here is the light output with lows+highs+500s
yes I am aware of that, I was jsut relating a story which is now 10 years old. my point was some high watt bulbs in the driving lights I had on the car worked great. The other point was the actual bulb wattage that came in the light was lower then I thought since it was listed as a 55 watt light, the bulb was originally like 37 watt. the optics of the light must have focused the light so it was a big different when I dropped in 100 watt bulbs. I was just noting how much draw those lights took. Again, relating the story from my father, he had to go get gas for the generator after a nasty storm 10 years ago and he commented how well he could see with headlights/driving lights/fog lamps that I had on what was then my old car. Yes one of the lenes did end up getting cracked and those lights got junked with the car.
just relating an experience, thats all ....
just relating an experience, thats all ....
I can respect that fact that you didn't want to dump a bunch on money on your $1500 car. I think the setup you have is very functional for everyday driving, BUT thick fog may be an issues with all of them on, as fog sits 9-12" off the ground, that's why "fog" lights are always in the lower bumper. YMMV