SoopaCooga
Veteran CEG'er
Most insurers cover some aftermarket. I used to be with Progressive, and they covered the cost of getting my body kit replaced and repainted, up to $1000. Additional coverage was also available for a fee.
I know I am jumping the gun here as I have not inspected the rods yet.
Would it be possible to swap the rods from under the car and keep the pistions in and the heads on?
How about pistons from beneath, can that be done?
I have an extra set of 3L rods and pistons if they end up being damaged and man would it be much nicer to swap thoes in without pulling the motor/heads.
Just looked at some pics of my grenaded 2.5L There is NO way to acomplish this from below.
New question: Can the heads be removed without fully pulling the motor? IE can it be rasied up enough with trans and half shafts still bolted in place to get them off from above?
Normally I would just pull the motor but my car is in Chicagoland and the garage I use for major work is in Kalamazoo MI. In its current running condition I wouldnt start that drive without a tow truck following me.
I have most tools necessary here minus extended garage use and engine hoist. Which those are necessary for major engine work.
Soooo, im just bouncing around possibilities until I can get a detailed and accurate diagnosis.
It has probably been there since the 3L build but I only recently installed a solid roll resistor, so thats why it is so evident.
Still no update on what is causing the vibration. It is only apparent at low RPM. At highway cruise it is non existant and the car feels great.
I wish there was a simple way to check if its the clutch, flywheel, preasure plate? I thought SPEC stuff was neutrally balanced out of the box?
It has probably been there since the 3L build but I only recently installed a solid roll resistor, so thats why it is so evident.
I hate to say it, but when you ran it with that watery oil, you probably did some damage to your bearings. Water is heavier than oil and sits at the bottom of the pan where your pickup tube is. What likely happened was when you started it up, it was drawing mostly water into the oil pump and circulating it throughout. Problem is- water doesn't lubricate, in fact it corrodes bearing surfaces. I know you're happy that it's running and all, and I'm not trying to ruin it for you, but your engine may have a very short life ahead of it- especially running boost.