WantaSVT
CEG'er
I changed my oil last week I didnt know what weight to use so I went for the ol 10W30 Synthetic, I only put in 5qts either I guess I need to add some? dip says full though
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How-to: Oil change
- Thread starter GTO Pete
- Start date
You're in the safe operating range at 5 quarts, but the car calls for 5.8. A lot of folks on here will just go an even six, and that's cool too.
10w-30 is ok, you wont eff anything up, but next time, run 5w-30. I spend all the marbles and run Mobil 1. A terrific, cheaper alternative is Motorcraft synthetic blend 5w-30. Motorcraft even has a full syn out now, though its a bit hard to find on the shelf.
Use Motorcraft's FL-820S filter -- you can't beat it, and they have a silicone valve, which is supposed to help with oiling at startup.
10w-30 is ok, you wont eff anything up, but next time, run 5w-30. I spend all the marbles and run Mobil 1. A terrific, cheaper alternative is Motorcraft synthetic blend 5w-30. Motorcraft even has a full syn out now, though its a bit hard to find on the shelf.
Use Motorcraft's FL-820S filter -- you can't beat it, and they have a silicone valve, which is supposed to help with oiling at startup.
WantaSVT
CEG'er
Is the 10 30 to thick or something will the affect gas mileage? I think the stop leak I put in is what gives m the full reading? I use penzoil full synthetic 20 buck 5 quarts
Never put anything in the oil fill that isn't oil. That includes stop leak, slick 50, any of that garbage. You can get away with putting Bar's Leaks in the coolant to get out of a heater core replacement, for example, but only oil in the engine.
I don't like Pennzoil -- I think their base stocks are sh*t. The price you quoted supports the argument that you get what you pay for. Synthetic should be quite a bit more expensive. A really good blend, though, can be had for $2.49 a quart or less -- the Motorcraft I mentioned.
10w-30 won't sabotage your gas mileage, but it does put a little more stress on the bearings than necessary, particularly under heavy load. We're talking over time here, of course.
Here's a good discussion on oil from the Crown Vic folks:
http://www.crownvic.net/tech/oiltech.html
I don't like Pennzoil -- I think their base stocks are sh*t. The price you quoted supports the argument that you get what you pay for. Synthetic should be quite a bit more expensive. A really good blend, though, can be had for $2.49 a quart or less -- the Motorcraft I mentioned.
10w-30 won't sabotage your gas mileage, but it does put a little more stress on the bearings than necessary, particularly under heavy load. We're talking over time here, of course.
Here's a good discussion on oil from the Crown Vic folks:
http://www.crownvic.net/tech/oiltech.html
WantaSVT
CEG'er
Yeah didnt stop the leak either, the mobile1 synthetic was only 26 bucks for 5qts, Ill go buy a quart of 5 20 to even it out
azbobbybooshay10
CEG'er
I run 6.5 quarts of Royal Purple 5W-30, and switched to synthetic shortly after buying the car at 121k miles. No problems with leaks whatsoever. I ran Mobil 1 for one oil cycle, then I got a job that had a discount on RP products so I took advantage of it. The RP works great, and I run the 6.5 quarts because I do quite a bit of Autocrossing and hard cornering, so I run the extra just as "cushion" for that.
m4gician
Hard-core CEG'er
does the RP really make a difference in terms of power? 
BigheadVelaSVT
CEG'er
My dad's an independant AMSoil dealer in addition to his "Fleet Maintenance Foreman" (I guess that's his title) day job for Oxy in CA.
When I got the CSVT, he sent me some 0W-30 "racing oil", saying that it's the best thing that I can put into the car. He also sent an AMSoil Oil Filter and drop in "Dry Style" air filter. Being that he's been working on cars longer than I've been alive, I just took his word for it. :shrug:
I'm still going to make the MAF/RU-3530 upgrade when I get a chance, cause the K&Ns have better flow, even if they have lower "filtration" numbers. It's not like I drive through a dust storm everyday.
Car's been running fine, I definately noticed a difference after made the switch, but I just thought I'd ask if anyone here has ever run such a light oil in their CSVTs before.
When I got the CSVT, he sent me some 0W-30 "racing oil", saying that it's the best thing that I can put into the car. He also sent an AMSoil Oil Filter and drop in "Dry Style" air filter. Being that he's been working on cars longer than I've been alive, I just took his word for it. :shrug:
I'm still going to make the MAF/RU-3530 upgrade when I get a chance, cause the K&Ns have better flow, even if they have lower "filtration" numbers. It's not like I drive through a dust storm everyday.
Car's been running fine, I definately noticed a difference after made the switch, but I just thought I'd ask if anyone here has ever run such a light oil in their CSVTs before.
m4gician
Hard-core CEG'er
the "racing oil" is less viscose, lower friction, so yes it is a racing oil. The Open air filter will be good at night when there is less humidity and HOT air. You DO need a good heat shield, something like aluminum, contact Pudmonkie and pay him for a good quality one.
drivebymashing
CEG'er
i use amsoil 530 its the bomb digity
i went 10 months 12000 miles without changing my oil cost like 51 bucks
im about to change it today
o btw
thats 12000 nascar miles revlimiter daily smoking tires
cold hard starts all that good stuff
i went 10 months 12000 miles without changing my oil cost like 51 bucks
im about to change it today
o btw
thats 12000 nascar miles revlimiter daily smoking tires
cold hard starts all that good stuff
Oh.. WOW! Dat's duh bomb yo! I bet U used ur speshul ":nascar milles" oil tester to see how that oil wuz holdin up, 2 huh?
:nonono:
The simple fact that you DID leave it in there doesn't mean that you CAN. I COULD never change my oil, but if I got on here and spouted off about how my oil can go forever, I would be an idiot. Just because I CHOSE not to change it does'n't affect what the oil can actually sustain.
Have THAT oil sampled by blackstonelabs.com(IIRC) and let them tell you what THEY think about the remaining viscosity, etc.
:nonono:
The simple fact that you DID leave it in there doesn't mean that you CAN. I COULD never change my oil, but if I got on here and spouted off about how my oil can go forever, I would be an idiot. Just because I CHOSE not to change it does'n't affect what the oil can actually sustain.
Have THAT oil sampled by blackstonelabs.com(IIRC) and let them tell you what THEY think about the remaining viscosity, etc.
69Boss302
Has mile high skills
drivebymashing
CEG'er
crap i took it to advance already to dump it
ill let ya know on my wifes taurus it has around 12k since i changed it
it was last july 4th amsoil 10w30 shes pretty rough on the ole taurus
it will spin hard to only have 140 hp
the ghetto tires prob have something to do with it
ill have it checked so you guys wont jump down my throat anymore
haha
how much oil do i send them a whole quart or what?and how much is it im a poor man
oh i put this 0 30 amsoil in my dads cobra it has 147k on it never had synthetic before
no leaks runs like a long tailed cat in a room full of rocking chairs
ill let ya know on my wifes taurus it has around 12k since i changed it
it was last july 4th amsoil 10w30 shes pretty rough on the ole taurus
it will spin hard to only have 140 hp
the ghetto tires prob have something to do with it
ill have it checked so you guys wont jump down my throat anymore
haha
how much oil do i send them a whole quart or what?and how much is it im a poor man
oh i put this 0 30 amsoil in my dads cobra it has 147k on it never had synthetic before
no leaks runs like a long tailed cat in a room full of rocking chairs
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http://www.blackstone-labs.com/tests_price_list.html The basic test is $23 bux. I think the kit they send you to put your oil in and send back, holds 4 oz.
--
On a side note, does anyone run Motorcraft full syn regularly?
I noticed today that my local AZ stocks it, and figured why not. I
was going to go with RP but, to obtain that is about a 30 min drive, where as the Motorcraft is 2 blocks down the road.
drivebymashing
CEG'er
sorry guys wifes oil had coolant in it its a dang 3.8 taurus
ill send mine off next year 12 months around 16k miles
so maybe my clutch will last that long
i just did nice dig yesterday bouncing off the 7 k fuel shut off
ill send mine off next year 12 months around 16k miles
so maybe my clutch will last that long
i just did nice dig yesterday bouncing off the 7 k fuel shut off
black98svt
CEG'er
Jiffy Lube coud'nt make a better how to.
Just wish they'd follow it, eh? I wouldn't let them work on a Snapper lawn mower.
NorMich99SE
CEG'er
diviniti, on the Motorcraft full Syn, it's only been out a few months, maybe 3 or 4. Here at the dealership I work at we've had a few (15-20?) customers switch to it, but I don't think we've heard much back from them yet, I don't think they're due for a change. Looks to be good stuff from what I've seen, but that's all coming from Ford, and what are they gonna say, our stuff isn't the best?