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Full 3l none start

squeek

Hard-core CEG'er
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Joined
Feb 25, 2012
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Location
Blacksburg, VA
Sigh ok here we go again. Just finished a full 3l install.

1) Rotated pulse wheel
2) Blocked egr
3) Cop conversion
4) Replaced harness with a 98 cougar
5) spliced in 04 knock sensor
6) Hear fuel pump prime
7) Pats light blinks normal

When I spray in starter fluid she acts like she wants to start. But right after she does it sounds like an exhaust pop that comes from the air filter. New battery in her so she turns very aggressively. Checked three plugs. With the cop set up so you have to do anything with the ground strap?

Please Help

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
 
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two red flags off the bat,

- people mess up the cop conversion all the time. I would go back to coil/wires temporarily

- you used a full cougar engine harness? I'm fairly certain the main engine harness is different, which is why they don't use rjl1 pcms...

From aircougar "Therefore: CODE RJL1 ecu AND its ENGINE HARNESS CAN NOT be used in a COUGAR.."
 
Have you confirmed you have spark? Are you sure you wired the coils up in the correct order? And I'm guessing your car is a 98.5?
 
I'm gonna pull off the cop setup and put in the coil pack and wires.

If no fire then gonna switch the main harness.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
 
two red flags off the bat,
- people mess up the cop conversion all the time. I would go back to coil/wires temporarily

I agree with this point. With that intake cough (pop sound from the air filter), it sounds like a firing order issue.

Also, about the Tapatalk sig... the damn thing keeps coming back for me every time the app updates. any way to keep that from happening?
 
I used a cougar harness when I had my car running on the OEM ecu. There were a LOT of differences between the two. pull a plug and check for spark, put a node on the fuel injectors to confirm you have power going or meter it. If you have those the ecu knows the engine is spinning and your coilpacks are probably wired out of order.
 
I have a full 3L with COP and my car wouldn't start out of nowhere the other day after running fine since I've owned it (3 months). I was also getting an occasional pop sound when the car tried firing up, or when I stop cranking it over. I did a bunch of troubleshooting, couldn't figure out the problem. Took SVTTOUR's advice and held the throttle down. Cranked the engine for about 15-20 seconds with the throttle mashed and it fired up. Give it a try. Good luck man!
 
Well pulled cop setup and reinstalled the coil pack and plugs. She wouldn't fire up. Sprayed some starting fluid in her and she fired up and died. Checked the rail and there is fuel pressure. So either no signal or injectors closed up. I did solder in the injector clips from the 3l harness.

Before this I was worried I didn't rotate my pulse wheel so pulled crank and it is correct. I'm gonna swap the harness back to see.
 
Throttle down shuts the fuel off. Was it flooded?

Hard to say. The first 7 times I tried starting it I gave it absolutely no throttle. Then I later gave it a little throttle on some tries, no throttle on other tries. The car say overnight, and would not start the next day when I didn't give it any throttle at all. When I finally mashed the throttle and held it to the floor that was the only thing that got it to fire up. I changed the fuel filter after this happened, just in case, and hasn't happened again just yet... but it has only been less than 2 weeks.

If we're running a full 3L, do we still have to have CSVT injectors to run? If so, my car has 179k miles.... maybe they are the original CSVT injectors and they are leaking slightly, when the car is off, causing the engine to flood? It was strange because this happened on the very first, very cold day we've had here in the area. It was in the 20's. I pulled the car into the heated garage for several hours and it still wouldn't fire up, so not sure if the cold weather had anything to do with it somehow in my case.


Well pulled cop setup and reinstalled the coil pack and plugs. She wouldn't fire up. Sprayed some starting fluid in her and she fired up and died. Checked the rail and there is fuel pressure. So either no signal or injectors closed up. I did solder in the injector clips from the 3l harness.

Before this I was worried I didn't rotate my pulse wheel so pulled crank and it is correct. I'm gonna swap the harness back to see.

Yeah does sound like fuel is the culprit... whether the injectors aren't firing, or they're clogged. How long did the injectors sit before you tried firing up the car? If they came off a junkyard motor in this is your first time using them, they are probably "stuck". No joke.... drop each injector on the ground (a hard surface.... cement is best since the smooth surface won't easily scratch up the outside of the injector) a few times. That usually gets them flowing/spraying again.

One thing you can do before trying to get them unstuck is clip a spare fuel injector connector from an engine harness and plug it into an injector. Take a fluid bulb like this LMX-LX-1616__18687.1361596077.1280.1280.jpg and fill it with fuel. Get a small worm-gear clamp and secure the end of the tube of the bulb filler to the top off the injector. Have someone tap the wires on the fuel injector connector to a 9-volt battery, as you squeeze the bulb firmly to pressurize the fuel in it and see if your injectors are spraying. If they're not, drop them on the cement a few times, and try again.

If you do the above test, just be sure to extend the wiring of the fuel injector harness that you're using. Use at least a couple feet of wiring between the injector and the battery, to prevent liquid fuel or fumes from getting ignited in the event that you get a spark when tapping the end of the wiring to against the 9-volt battery. Hope that helps.

You can also use a test light to probe your injector connections. Not sure if these injectors receive a ground pulse, or a 12v+ pulse... but connect the probe up accordingly and have someone turn the car over as your probe each harness to make sure you're getting signal to the injectors.

Lastly, be careful with using starting fluid on a fuel-injected engine. I would totally stay away from it, but if you absolutely have to ever use it, use very minimal amounts. I blew out my oil pan seals on a brand new motor I built for a '92 Taurus SHO I had that wasn't firing up. And after taking 3 days to get the engine in and everything buttoned up, I had to remove it again to change the brand new oil pan seals. BE VERY CAREFUL! Good luck!!

-Andrew
 
Something is wrong with the harness. IIRC a couple injector wires are different. If it wants to start up with the starter fluid something is whacked out with either the injector firing order or coil firing order. The only proper way to diagnose it would be to pull all the coil connectors and injectors, find a pcm pinout and check continuity of which one goes where. Guarantee you find a couple things out of whack.
 
Just pulled injectors and the won't even fire. So I'm gonna give the cleaning as above a try tonight. Which doesn't surprise me since the guy said the motor had been there about six years on the shelf. If she doesn't fire up I'll just install the old harness I've redone all the old connectors so it's almost just as good. Will have to repin the knock sensor in.
 
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If they won't fire when trying to run cleaner through them, drop them a few times. Trust me. Then run the cleaner through them once you get them spraying.

If you do the video above, which looks like it should work pretty well, put a thin amount of Vaseline on the outside of the O-ring.
 
Read another where the guy baked in an oven. Then soaked in seafoam. Probably not gonna bake them but probably soak them tonight. Then try the carb cleaner in the am.
 
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