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Fuel Issue?? or something else???

J

jnuke25

New CEG'er
Joined
Dec 7, 2010
Messages
26
I figured I'd check with you guys here first since there are more 3.0l here than on NECO. I bought daniel's 3.0l turbo Cougar he was selling on NECO (list of mods after post). When we were talking he said that when it gets under a 1/4 tank it sometimes with have a short loss of fuel due to how the Walbro 255 setup. It has happened a few times the first month or so I had, now it is happening on a much more regular basis regardless of how much gas is in the tank. I have only had it physically stall out maybe twice, where I actually had to restart the car, today was one of those days. At first this was a issue that I would assume I had to live with since the car was never designed for what is in it now, and I was ok with that. It seems to be more than just a minor issue. And please bear with me I have done nothing to the car myself so I can't say how things are setup but I can find out shortly. I would really love some guidance on this issue, and yes I have searched and my results came up with nothing that I am describing.

And to Clarify my problem - driving down the road at any speed foot still on the gas I loss power (just motor) car. I guess imagine you are driving at 65-70 and the car just goes into a idle. I let of the gas pedal completely and press it back down it picks right back up. It occurs at any fuel level now, at any speed/gear, any length of driving. no CEL besides the P1000

List of mods

-2006 ford taurus engnie swap
-xcal3
-Analog Input Cable
-AEM wideband A/F gauge
-oil pressure gauge
-volt gauge
-boost gauge
-NP fuel rail mod
-walbro 255 fuel pump swap
-stage 3+ racing clutch
-42lbs Precision injectors
-90mm maf
-46mm Precision wastegate
-Synapse Synchronic Blow Off Valve
-60-3 masterpower turbo
-msd header with v-bands going to the y pipe
-custom y-pipe 2.25in pipe form manifolds into a 2.5in to the turbo
-custom 3in down pipe with 2x 70 degrees bends not the hard 90degree bends
- y-pipe and down pipe are heat wraped
- all exhaust clamps are v-band
-custom full 3in racing exhaust all the way out
-2.25in fmic pipe
-1000cfm 12x36x3in fmic
 
what does the wideband show when it happens? I suspect its a fuel pump issue, is the car return or returnless? if its returnless does it have the updated sending unit setup or the stock style?
 
striker2 said:
what does the wideband show when it happens? I suspect its a fuel pump issue, is the car return or returnless? if its returnless does it have the updated sending unit setup or the stock style?
Click to expand...
I am going to take a guess and say returnless, I will find out for sure tomorrow as well as about the sending unit. The wideband will start to "climb" moving towards the right (numbers increase) like am coasting and goes to all dashes or reading nothing, like I just took my foot off the gas while driving to coast on the highway or something like that.
 
If things work out for me tomorrow, i'll be doing rear struts at work. While that is happening me and my mechanic will take a look using the Xcal to check the pressure, what pressure should I ideally be reading?? I am also going to pull the rear seats and check everything out as best I can, check the lines and stuff. Anyone think it might just be something stupid, i.e. a loose or blocked line??
 
and thank you guys for helping out and no given me a hard time about anything so far. I never really thought I'd have this setup but I found a insane deal on this setup and had the cash at the right moment. It worked out pretty good for me but its a interesting learning process for me. So thanks guys!!!!!
 
for a returnless setup, fuel pressure should be 50PSI at idle or KOEO and 39PSI at both 30 and 55MPH
 
Well my starter took a dump yesterday morning so my time has been wrapped up taking care of that issue I should have some information on Monday, the fuel pump has around 13-14k on it. I got everything tore apart and the new starter put in today just have to reassemble the turbo tomorrow. Its a pain in the A replacing the starter with this type of setup.
 
if it's returnless then the fuel pressure sensor is probably dirty/bad. also check the wiring from the sensor to ecu or wherever it goes to. you could also have a glitch in your tune or something possibly? if you have a flashed tune try reflashing the ecu.
 
Well got the starter in and that was a pain the A, starts fine and now its idling really rough. Did throw some CELs all related to the IAC. Took it out cleaned that and the TB really good, runs slightly better by that i mean it doesn't stall out. So call the auto store and ordered, went and picked it up at 3:00 and with my luck I need a 01-02 cougar IAC not a 99-00. So I'll throw that bastard in tomorrow morning and hopefully my problems will be solved. The IAC was one of the first things someone mentioned so maybe I'll be lucky that will take care of that issue.
 
Be careful just replacing parts that cause a code. Due to the heavy modification, those codes will help track an issue, but might not be the root cause. Just my two cents having gone thru it a few times. I replaced a variety of things only to find out it was a vacuum leak from the blow off valve.

If you still have issues after the IAC replacement, check your BOV to make sure it is air tight at idle (which is virtually the same amount of vacuum the motor will produce at steady state operation).
 
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