The tensioner and idler pulleys all have normal right hand thread bolts, i.e. no left hand thread. Provided you are able to cut the bolt, just taking the head off should make remainder much easier to get out since the clamping force is now gone. If you haven't destroyed it yet, you could always chance that one part and leave it on if it still turns smoothly. Be a shame to waste a good part though, especially with the attendant damage it might bring on fail.
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FLYWHEEL BROKEN??? 2.0L DOHC 99 Contour SE
- Thread starter Trikeman72
- Start date
Trikeman72
New CEG'er
thats what im thinking..... i have replaced all of the other idler pulleys ... and noticed that the new one dosent turn as freely as the old one ( thinking it is that way because it dont have 220K on it)
so you think i should cut the head off b4 i try to remove it or would it be ok trying to turn the part the bolt holds on.. it is like a collar or something the bolt clamps against the block ya know?
Trikeman72
New CEG'er
Pressing on.....
Pressing on.....
well after alot of thought i came to the conclusion of leaving the old tensioner on because i think that the bolt threads thru the head into a water jacket so i figgerd it would break of and id be in worser fubar than i started with.
all is left is to put on the water pump pulley,serp belt, and the dayum starter again and im ready to start it (fangers crossed icon inserted here):laugh:
will let ya know how it turns out asap
thanks a heap for the help folks i really appreciate it
Pressing on.....
well after alot of thought i came to the conclusion of leaving the old tensioner on because i think that the bolt threads thru the head into a water jacket so i figgerd it would break of and id be in worser fubar than i started with.
all is left is to put on the water pump pulley,serp belt, and the dayum starter again and im ready to start it (fangers crossed icon inserted here):laugh:
will let ya know how it turns out asap
thanks a heap for the help folks i really appreciate it