Engine running too hot

[m1a rocks]

Well, I got the 96' se (2.5 L)on the road today. I put a new engine (75k mi) in it recently.
All was great until I got going a few miles. Temp was fine until I got about 5 or 10 miles down the road. Traveling at speeds up to 55mph. Temp gauge went pretty much all the way up to the red. I put the car in neutral, turned on the heat and coasted. Temp seemed to finally start coming down. Continued driving and the temp seemed to oscillate back and forth near the red line (temp).
I thought driving at those speeds should keep the temp pretty low.

I did put a new thermostat in the car when I did the engine swap. I can't find the box but I'm pretty sure it was 180 deg. I don't think it's possible to put in backwards.

When I put my hand on the hose off the stat it seems to be a lot hotter on the engine side. I am not 100% sure of that but pretty darn sure.

When I started the car up and let it warm up yesterday for the first time I had missed the ground wire for the cooling fans and did lift the cap on the overflow and shut the car right down. I don't think I hurt anything.

I'm sure everyone will point to the stat. I wondered if the temp gauge sender might be sending me a hotter than normal signal.
Help....... I really need to get this car back on the road.

 

[TRicker]

sounds like the water pump might be out. the plastic style gets so hot it can melt the fins and it will "kinda" work but its not supplying sufficient pressure. another thing is it could have air in the system. take the cap off the coolant tank and let it idle and see if it will eventually take more antifreeze. i had that problem with my first 3L swap.

 

[m1a rocks]

Ok, I'll give that a try(burp it). I do know that it took 2 gallons exactly the first time before overheating it yesterday. I didn't really loose too much anti freeze during that little problem. I never did see exactly how much fluid to put in.
I can see a flow going into the overflow container. However(as you said) perhaps the water pump might not be moving a lot. I do know that this engine sat for about a year on the shelf at the yard.

If I see flow going into the overflow container, that means my stat is opening up, correct?
Does anyone know if the water pump off an 06' escape 3.0 would fit? Just a thought. I've got one sitting here.

 

[m1a rocks]

One other quick thing. When I get over 5k rpm's my alt light comes on. I used an old one. Tried to save a buck. Do you think it's putting out too much????
Probable the voltage reg?

 

[Tony2005]

Start the car to warm engine to normal temperature. Turn on heater. If the air coming out is hot, water pump is fine. If the air coming out is warm, then the water water pump is broken.

If the thermostat is installed incorrectly and not opening when it should, that could be a problem. If radiator fans are not coming on, that could be a problem too.

Battery charge light coming on at high rpms is a sign that the alternator brushes are "floating" and might be time for a new alternator.

Water pump R&R in Duratec how to.
http://www.contour.org/ceg-vb/showthread.php?t=9480

 

[PurdySVT]

yes the '06 escape water pump should work if it is driven off the intake cam. I know the 05 escape motor I had had the same water pump sure to be the updated plastic water pump.

I saw a taurus duratec at the yard yesterday driven off the exhaust cam with way different valve covers.....

what thermostat did you get? when I bought my last t-stat they had two temp ranges one was stock and the other wasn't

you could always try changing out your temp sender don't you have a spare from one of those engines laying around? make sure the wire to the temp sensor is good. and make sure those fan's are coming on.

 

[m1a rocks]

Yes Neal I am sure the fans are now working. i missed the ground wire the other day. Got that all set. The fans are kicking on now. I'm going to check the temp on the heat(Tony).
I chcked the manuals and it appears that the stat housing is in the correct oreintation. I am almost positive the stat is in correctly. Sure does feel like a diff temp on both sides. I am bringing home the laser temp reader from work. That should help pinpoint the temp differences.
The haynes manual says to squeeze the upper rad hose and then release it and see if you feel the water "whoosh" through.
I think the hose felt soft, then got a bit harder after holding it. (sounds like soft porn).
I'll get back on checking things out in the morning. I suppose I don't mind if the pump is bad. I just want to figure this out and get er done.
The car was running great. I bouth the thing with a blown engine. Replacement engine sounds great. Trans seems to shift fine(5 speed). Not even a check engine light! Thank God for those mil eliminators. I seem to have misplaced the insides of the pre cats.........:laugh:

Come to think of it, when I was driving and the engine was HOT, I had the heat on to help cool it down and the air was warm, but not that hot..........

 

[Mywhip]

Make sure to check your fan also.

When my car was over heating, that was the problem. It ended up being a blown fuse for the engine fan.

 

[m1a rocks]

A quick update.
I am going out right now to remove the water pump. I went out there this morning and let the car warm up, the heat blew sorta warm for about 30 sec then went cold.
I removed the overflow cap, and the level in it went up. Hot engine. I then put the heat back on high, the overflow level went up and down. I never saw any air "burp" into it and the level didn't really drop dow in it.
I felt the two heater hoses. The one on the bottom of the water pump was pretty cool. The other one was a little warm. Not much.
The thermostat housing is getting pretty hot. The cooling fans are coming on ok.

I've looked in my Ford repair books and the stat looks like it is in correct from the view of it.
I bought a new pump from NAPA this morn. I think that if I get a gasket tomorrow morn. I may put in a used one. I have 2- 2.5 parts engines and one 3.0 from an escape I could use. The escape calls for a different part number on rock auto. I may pull it to check out the diff.
Brian.............................

 

[m1a rocks]

Quick update. Impeller is cracked and spinning freely. Needs replacement.
Escape has white impeller and is deeper. Hose size off main block is larger.
I am going to replace with the new napa...............