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BrApple

No Life But CEG
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since I am new to this would high temp powder coat good to 1000 degrees be able to stand up to the exhaust gas temp from a turbo application?

I know Jet hot would be the best way to go but was wondering what other types of coating could be used to coat the exhaust pipes for the NPG turbo kit.
 
RawBurt said:
Just an FYI, my EGT's see between 1400 to 1500 degrees when I'm full into it :eek:

I would go with either jet hot or exhaust wrap.
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ok but where is that reading taken? and do you know what NPG used as their coating?
 
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You need a real ceramic coating. For gods sake screw heat wrap. Worst stuff on earth. Especialy on mild steel. Your ONLY option is Swain coating! Trust me. Yes its expensive, but well worth the money. That plus turbo blanket = cool engine compartment. Do it!
 
BrApple said:
ok but where is that reading taken? and do you know what NPG used as their coating?
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The temp probe is mounted at the up pipe (ypipe) where it bolts up to the rear header. Yes I know its supposed to be further up on the header for accuracy. But I did not want to drill into the pretty headers for part out reasons.

I'm not 100% positive what Joey used, I remember seeing the process in the first thread he started. Anyway, he can clarify that.
 
RawBurt said:
The temp probe is mounted at the up pipe (ypipe) where it bolts up to the rear header. Yes I know its supposed to be further up on the header for accuracy. But I did not want to drill into the pretty headers for part out reasons.

I'm not 100% positive what Joey used, I remember seeing the process in the first thread he started. Anyway, he can clarify that.
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well what ever it is how is it holding up over time?
 
I believe Joey uses the vht stuff. Boosted EGT's can read up to 1600 degrees on our duratech motors. However, that is not how hot the pipes get obviously. 1000 degree should be plent fine if you really want to go a painting route... but I would recommend real ceramic coating.
 
yeah I am just starting to look into this because I have a few of the pipe to coat myself, the y-pipe, intercooler pipes and the dual echaust pipe that runs under the trans. would like to coat black so they are less visible. I was hoping that I could just have ctmystique powder coat them with high temp powder coat but he can't cure items this large at the moment, so I will either wait alittle or find a company that can do it for me or worse case paint them myself ...
 
whatever the ceramic coating is on Joey's kits, it's holding up perfect on mine. i also have all of my hot piping wrapped with header wrap and a T-blanket. my underhood temps are very mild.


Livinsvt said:
You need a real ceramic coating. For gods sake screw heat wrap. Worst stuff on earth. Especialy on mild steel.
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there are alot of myths about heat wraps running around and some may be true, but i am 30 years old, and people have been using it long before i was born without a problem. that is good enough testing for me.
 
Lol. They most certainly have but I wouldnt say without a problem. They main flaw with heat wrap is two things. Its meant to keep heat in the pipe correct? It also keeps moisture in, bad. Espeicaly for mild steel. Also by trapping this heat, the heat stays in the steel longer as its trapped, thus allowing fatigue over time. A good ceramic coating, and I emphasize good will allow the heat to be released from the steel, and keep the heat in the exhaust stream.
 
The best options are always the most expensive and if it was up to me I would do all 321 SS and forget the coating all together but when we don't even have the option of the SS headers why make the all the pipes cost three times more when the headers are the first to rust out anyways due the extreme heat and abuse. The headers rust from inside out even if you coat them but when you look at the big picture you can get 5-7 years out of headers MS coated for only $285 a set you are looking at $50 dollars a year and 80% of the people here will not even own their car for that long before selling it. The key to good coatings is the prep work just the like painting if you do not bead blast your headers and prime them first they will flake off or build rust under them. I jusy impoved the coating which in my testing really didn't need to because I still have headers a year on the car not even a flake or rust spot on the header. I use a three stage coating primer/base coating/clear where all the levels are cooked up to 600 degrees in increaing levels where it the clear biggest benefit I added keeps the fragile ceramic coat from chipping or scratching easily. Here are some pics of the new pipes. I also say that if you coat the headers like I do the header wrap will help you on heat where the water should not see the metal if the coating is sealed thanks to the clear now.
Jan 11 2008 017.jpg
 
Livinsvt said:
Lol. They most certainly have but I wouldnt say without a problem. They main flaw with heat wrap is two things. Its meant to keep heat in the pipe correct? It also keeps moisture in, bad. Espeicaly for mild steel. Also by trapping this heat, the heat stays in the steel longer as its trapped, thus allowing fatigue over time. A good ceramic coating, and I emphasize good will allow the heat to be released from the steel, and keep the heat in the exhaust stream.
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those are good points and two things i kept in consideration when doing it. in my case though, my car doesn't see winter, rain, or wet pavement and for the 2k miles or less my car sees a year heat wrap is a perfect choice value and performance. as long as you drive the car long enough for temps to come up moisture shouldn't be a problem. heat wrap isn't the only choice, but for some people is the best choice, depending on driving conditions.
 
00TourSVT said:
those are good points and two things i kept in consideration when doing it. in my case though, my car doesn't see winter, rain, or wet pavement and for the 2k miles or less my car sees a year heat wrap is a perfect choice value and performance. as long as you drive the car long enough for temps to come up moisture shouldn't be a problem. heat wrap isn't the only choice, but for some people is the best choice, depending on driving conditions.
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Good point. So how is the car running is it still a blast to drive ? When are you ready to turn the boost up...........:) I am just picking I know you like it to be a daily driver like most. .
 
BurritaSVT said:
Good point. So how is the car running is it still a blast to drive ? When are you ready to turn the boost up...........:) I am just picking I know you like it to be a daily driver like most. .
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yeah, it's still fun and runs a tad rich, but great. i posted it's numbers in a previous post. i never have had it up any higher than 8 psi. and don't drive it but maybe once every couple of weeks, even longer now that winter is set in, so i really never get used to the power it has now. i go from my 99 GMC truck that i drive daily and then get into my car and it feels like a monster, every time. my wife bought me an AEM wideband for x-mas and have it installed now, cruising it sits right around 14.5-14.9 and when you mash it it runs around 11-11.5 so it's right on, if not a little conservative.

edited a/f at wot after looking back at the dyno sheets...
 
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don't go leaner than that on boost :)

i want the turbo kit! (counts pennies)

couple more weeks joey.......couple more weeks :(
 
00TourSVT said:
those are good points and two things i kept in consideration when doing it. in my case though, my car doesn't see winter, rain, or wet pavement and for the 2k miles or less my car sees a year heat wrap is a perfect choice value and performance. as long as you drive the car long enough for temps to come up moisture shouldn't be a problem. heat wrap isn't the only choice, but for some people is the best choice, depending on driving conditions.
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Well I think there is a mis-conception about coatings. People only seem to think coating is for corrosion resistance and there fore mild steel only. When actualy thats more of a secondary reason. The main being heat control. This is the exact reason why you DO coat stainless as well. I have 321/304 stainless, and there all coated, and they dont see winter or much rain. Stainless still gets hot too... I will just say this, heat wrap is never the best choice in any situation, IMO. With that being said, GL with your setup and have fun!
 
TRicker said:
don't go leaner than that on boost :)

i want the turbo kit! (counts pennies)

couple more weeks joey.......couple more weeks :(
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well if you on't have one by the time of SZ2008 you can some ride in two of my cars I will have the SC VVT Contour there and the 3 liter 450whp+ there too I am sure I will make you break your piggy bank then........:)
 
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