• Welcome to the Contour Enthusiasts Group, the best resource for the Ford Contour and Mercury Mystique.

    You can register to join the community.

egr delete?

newb

Hard-core CEG'er
Joined
Nov 26, 2010
Messages
1,186
Location
55021
ok, i've been searching the forum for a couple days looking for a how to on doin gan egr delete on my car it has an 04 3.0l in it,full swap.

i'm going to be buying the RACEBITS headers and y-pipe and want to do an egr delete while i'm at it, pro's con's?
and how di i do this properly?
i KNOW that i'll have to get a tune, but hey i'm going to have to get one anyways since i'm doins a few more mods to it also.
thx guys
 
remove the egr tube and cap off on the intake and exhaust manifold. dpfe sensor needs to stay installed and connected. other then clearning up the engine bay there isn't any advantage. the egr is only open during cruise events, not wot.
 
Yeah you can get the block off plate from Steve at Tousley (think it was around $10 when I bought it)... Depending whether those headers have the bung for EGR or not, you might need an additional cap for that.
 
remove the egr tube and cap off on the intake and exhaust manifold. dpfe sensor needs to stay installed and connected. other then clearning up the engine bay there isn't any advantage. the egr is only open during cruise events, not wot.
DPFE does not need to remain if the EGR system is tuned out properly.

Yeah you can get the block off plate from Steve at Tousley (think it was around $10 when I bought it)... Depending whether those headers have the bung for EGR or not, you might need an additional cap for that.
if its needed the cap can be had at lowes for a couple bucks. IIRC its a brass 5/8" compression cap.
 
No EGR or DPFE on mine and Joey seemed to tune it out fine, no cel.
 
Yes a tune is needed no matter what.

interesting. I keep reading about people who have to leave it plugged in to prevent a cel when the egr system is turned off.

Sounds like it's hit or miss. Some need it no matter what even when tuned out. I think it had something to do with the start up sequence that checked the DPFE which couldn't be changed.
 
Keep an eye on the group buy forum as I (PRT) will be selling EGR delete kits that include a water-jet cut 6061 aluminum manifold plate, header cap, hardware, vacuum line plug and new gasket.
 
Keep an eye on the group buy forum as I (PRT) will be selling EGR delete kits that include a water-jet cut 6061 aluminum manifold plate, header cap, hardware, vacuum line plug and new gasket.

What is the vacuum line plug for? there are still 3 other things need a vacuum source (fuel pressure regulator/sensor, EVAP, HVAC) and there are 3 ports in the stock rubber elbow adapter. :shrug:
 
What is the vacuum line plug for? there are still 3 other things need a vacuum source (fuel pressure regulator/sensor, EVAP, HVAC) and there are 3 ports in the stock rubber elbow adapter. :shrug:

For the single line in the vac harness that runs solely to the top of the EGR.....

There are 4 lines coming off the vac harness- EGR/Fuel press/EVAP & HVAC.
 
For the single line in the vac harness that runs solely to the top of the EGR.....

There are 4 lines coming off the vac harness- EGR/Fuel press/EVAP & HVAC.

the line that runs to the top of the EGR valve or the solenoid? either way, you can remove the short piece that comes from the elbow splitter (which then splits for EGR and either the HVAC or EVAP) and that leaves an open port for the EVAP or HVAC (which ever one comes from the split off the short piece)

stock there are 4 vacuum lines, but only 3 ports in the elbow. since you are removing 1 system (EGR) that leaves you with 3 systems and 3 ports.
 
Or, I could make it simpler and more easily reversible for my customers by just providing a plug for the connection to the EGR valve. I do things the way I do them for a reason. Will I be simply plugging the line on my cars? No. I'm going to eliminate the vac line to the EGR all together like you're talking about, but not everyone wants to go that far, so I'm providing a simple solution that they can choose to use or not to use.



the line that runs to the top of the EGR valve or the solenoid?.

For the single line in the vac harness that runs solely to the top of the EGR.....
 
Last edited:
its whatever, its your kit obviously. I just know that I cant stand having extra vacuum lines or wires hanging around that go to nothing. I know you are the same way (obviously or you wouldnt be completely removing the lines from your car) so i was wondering why you would sell a kit that promotes having extra vacuum lines that go to nothing. since the lines just pull out of the rubber connectors/splitters its not like it couldnt be put back to stock later if needed, and it would result in a cleaner looking engine bay.
 
Dan, I see what your getting at, and we're on the same page as far as form/function. If someone wants to remove the line completely that is their choice, but i can't have the liability of them damaging their vacuum harness on my end.
 
Dan, I see what your getting at, and we're on the same page as far as form/function. If someone wants to remove the line completely that is their choice, but i can't have the liability of them damaging their vacuum harness on my end.

ok, that makes sense. less risk to the lines if you just plug the opening(s). I forget that Ford used the stupid plastic lines everywhere that get brittle, im used to my VR4 that has real rubber lines for everything. lol
 
kinda off topic but can you get rubber lines small enough to be a direct swap replacement for the plastic ones?
 
so, block off header connection, block off intake connection, get rid of the DPFE or w/e and get it tuned,correct?
 
and get a vacuum cap for the egr vacuum line. I pulled the plastic line, but couldn't find a vacuum plug at any of the stores around here. So I got a plastic vacuum union, and capped the other end.... and zip tied them.
 
Back
Top