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Duratec valve sticking open

J

jimbosvt

CEG'er
Joined
Aug 2, 2009
Messages
39
Location
Windsor Ontario
Hey everyone. I recently have been having a problem with my duratec valve sticking open. my engine light came on and i hooked up my code reader and it said that the intake valves were stuck open. I think it could only be the duratec valves since if it was the main valve, the engine would rev out. i tested my idea by putting the car to 4000 rpm to see if the valves would open. The extra little boost never happened. and it sounded and felt like it was in duratec the whole time. has anyone had this problem or does someone know how to fix it?:shrug:

or, has anyone ever played around with a switch or lever that would manually keep the duratec open through the rpm range? (i am liking the extra power at low rpm) any help would be appreciated.
 
I think you're referring to the secondary intake valves. Duratec is the name of a family of engines. Its use is not interchangeable with how Honda enthusiasts use "vtec". (vtec kicking in, etc...)

Try searching for: imrc stuck open

There are a lot of discussions on the subject.
 
When the IMRC is stuck open, you get no extra power at low RPMs. It is designed to be CLOSED at low RPMs to increase torque, and opens at high RPMs to increase airflow.

If it's not working, you're suffering somewhere.

Usually they stick open because the linkage on the lower intake manifold has come apart. In this case, usually only one bank is stuck open, but it still throws the same code.

It can also be due to a faulty IMRC unit.
 
Andy Bennett said:
When the IMRC is stuck open, you get no extra power at low RPMs. It is designed to be CLOSED at low RPMs to increase torque, and opens at high RPMs to increase airflow.

If it's not working, you're suffering somewhere.

Usually they stick open because the linkage on the lower intake manifold has come apart. In this case, usually only one bank is stuck open, but it still throws the same code.

It can also be due to a faulty IMRC unit.
Click to expand...


Okay, well i figured it gave me more power because, my tires break loose when i stomp on the pedal. it has never done that before. if i would drop the clutch or do a fast start then it would, but never a rolling start.
 
i took some stuff apart today and found out where the problem is. the computer that tells the motor to pull the cable to open the valves, never tells the motor when to shut off. so the motor is keeps trying to pull the cable until the computer reads that there is something wrong and shuts it down. could this do damage to the engine if i just leave the valves open? or would it better to leave them closed and disconnect the IMRC?
 
duratec just kicked in yo!!! ( sorry i had to do it , im going to get that sticker made to mess with the lil honda ricers around here lol ) i would say keep them open till your able to fix the problem the right way , do a search thow of imrc it will help you out a ton
 
isnt there a write up on how to repair the part that goes bad? i have seen the cable part repair but i thought there was a resistor? to repair also?
 
2.5L_Rice_Eater said:
isnt there a write up on how to repair the part that goes bad? i have seen the cable part repair but i thought there was a resistor? to repair also?
Click to expand...

the transistor. it can be replaced as well, i have used a TIP120 from Radio Shack with good results. some searching of posts i have made should bring up the info.
 
ok sweet i want to try that it seems that mine dont always open. sometimes when it hits it torque steers it pulls so hard others u barely feel it at all, if at all
 
so upon further inspection of the imrc. I found the reving it 5-6k the valves did not open get this.. Until atleast a full second after the motor was winding down.. it would open for a few seconds then close again.. i take it that a weak transistor would cause that? i got the imrc apart in the morning im gonna get a transistor and see if i feel the big torque steer hit of power!
 
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