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Debating 3L Swap and had some questions

Bignose94015

New CEG'er
Joined
May 5, 2011
Messages
8
So I just purchased my 1st CSVT. I almost bought one 8 years ago but the dealership decided that them being straight A-Holes to me was the best way to get the sale. Didnt work out to well for them.

So tommorow I pick up a 1999 CSVT with 61k original miles for 800 bucks. Now I know that eems like a screaming deal but here are the two negatives.

1. Dent in driver side door. I plan on re skinning it and calling it a day.

2. Number 6 hole has zero compresion... :-(

So here is my dilema. I plan on using this rig for daily driving so drivability is a must. I have read numerous post on this site for the past 4 hours about the car running rough after a 3l swap. My other major concern is the smog nazis we have here in california..... It must pass smog, all smog equipment needs to stay on the car.

So my limited experience with this car tells me there is probably a stuck valve causing cylinder 6 to have zero compresion. In my eyes that means the head is ruined along with the cam.

So what is my best bet fro changing out the engine? Escape, taurus, sable 100% longblock out of a wrecked car? If so will it pass out the tail pipes and not flash any codes on teh computer. I have not been able to find out if these are OBD2 or not yet but I am assuming they are not.

If any one is local to the bay area I would be willing to pay them to do the swap and source the parts for this swap as long as they are confident that they can do it and have the car pass smog and run as if it were stock.

Thanks for any advice and I look forward to learing from all +of you.

Eric
 
They are OBD2. As far as which 3.0 to use they are all similar with minor differences. But with a bad head you probably wont be doing a hybrid. I haven't heard of anyone complaining about a rough running 3.0 after they get a tune but I'm sure it happens. As far as the emissions go I don't know. I wouldn't think it would be an issue knowing that the contour has cats out the ass, but i don't live in California. My car isn't even legal here lol
 
Best bet in CA, do a port match 3L swap. This will retain all the emissions components and assuming its all put back together right, you wont have any check engine lights. Also, there would be no way for the emissions techs to tell it isnt stock. Also, if you keep the stock 19# svt injectors, the idle should be fine. I am running my port match 3L with stock injectors, no tune, no issues. Smooth idle, easy start up. Butter.

So you would port match the 3L heads to mate up with the 2.5L svt intake manifolds. All the ancillary bits will be retained and in there original locations.
 
Best bet in CA, do a port match 3L swap. This will retain all the emissions components and assuming its all put back together right, you wont have any check engine lights. Also, there would be no way for the emissions techs to tell it isnt stock. Also, if you keep the stock 19# svt injectors, the idle should be fine. I am running my port match 3L with stock injectors, no tune, no issues. Smooth idle, easy start up. Butter.

So you would port match the 3L heads to mate up with the 2.5L svt intake manifolds. All the ancillary bits will be retained and in there original locations.


^Listen to that - I also have the portmatched 3.0L V6 DOHC from a 2005 Taurus put into my 1995 Contour SE. No check engine lights, no tune, no one would ever suspect that it wasn't a factory 2.5L V6. Emissions will be perfectly good for you. Retain your stock exhaust manifolds, y-pipe, cat, and exhaust it will be smooth sailing for you.
 
I am a fan boy of the full 3.0L, but in this case I agree with the split port match because of your emission testings.
 
My car idled perfectly with my 2004 full 3L swap. And that was using the 19lb injectors and untuned.
But, if the CEL is an issue, listen to SHOgoFast, and do the port match.
 
Just did a 3L portmatched swap literally last month. The car runs, if anything, smoother than it did before and I only had 90 thousand miles. Believe me, this is the best route to go. It takes a bit more effort than putting in another 2.5 but its worth it. Also, if you want to source the motor, I suggest a company called LKQ. Got a 2004 Taurus motor with 44k for 500 dollars. Came clean as hell and with everthing intact. Very good company to do business with.
 
I agree that the port matched setup sounds good for this case. But just out of curiosity, would the lack of an IMRC cause an emissions failure in CA? I guess I'm just curious if a full 3L would be ok as far as the CA smog thing goes. If things get turned off in a tune do they see that on an inspection?
 
So here is my dilema. I plan on using this rig for daily driving so drivability is a must. I have read numerous post on this site for the past 4 hours about the car running rough after a 3l swap. My other major concern is the smog nazis we have here in california..... It must pass smog, all smog equipment needs to stay on the car.
Eric
Multiply that by a million to the third power
 
Port the heads (bugzuki plates)
Unused tab cut off the block for alternator bracket
Unused tab cut off the block for oil cooler lines
Pilot bushing removed/cut flush
Passenger side motor mount ground down to fit between the 3L heads
Crank case breather box moved to 3L block
 
I assume these engines are non interferance. I think I have a stuck valve so maybe I am better of just swapping the head. What does a head job on one of these cars usually cost?
 
Wish I was closer, I would do this for you if I had the extra time and space. The 3L is going to be your best bet. Picture it like this, get the 3L and tear it down to the block and heads, remove/cut a couple things and port the heads, then transfer everything from your 2.5 to the 3L. Its really a fairly easy swap as long as you know what needs to be done.
 
If anyone local to the bay area wants to tackle this for me in their spare time let me know. Cash in hand. I just dont have a open garage at the moment to perform teh swap.
 
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