• Welcome to the Contour Enthusiasts Group, the best resource for the Ford Contour and Mercury Mystique.

    You can register to join the community.

Coolant frustrations....

DirtyBird

CEG'er
Joined
Nov 10, 2010
Messages
62
Location
Colorado Springs, CO
Ok, first, what I've done, in order.... I replaced the water pump, thermostat, blower resistor and switch, resevior cap, top hose, and did a flush....

Now the problems.
The pump was seeping, thats why I replaced it, no problems after that for a while. Then the thermostat was getting stuck closed randomly and overheating, so I replaced it... THEN the issues started (during a few -30 degree days)....
The heater blower resistor went out, the the switch when out, while it was cold... :nonono:

There was random heat and no hose pressure, so I replaced the resevior cap.

Then the top hose split, after temps warmed up....:mad: (replaced, EXPENSIVE)

Now it drinks anti-freeze like crazy (almost 2gal in a month). It will heat up a little above normal (like 2 needle widths), until I turn the heat on full blast, then back to normal the rest of the trip.

No white or blue smoke from the exhaust, I had a friend follow/race me, and there are no engine leaks that I can see. Although there has been a SLIGHT (but noticable) and progressive power loss during all this car drama. I would say that in total it has overheated to, or almost to, the red line maybe 2 or 3 times, because I couldnt stop the car. When it starts to go up
towards that hot, I turn the heat on full blast and pop the hood to help as much as it can.

There is an odor of anitfreeze a lot of the time. The coolant dash light is on when I start the car, till it comes up to temp, then goes off, usually... But today coming home on the highway, when I would get on the gas and go, the coolant light would come on for a minute, then back off. No overheating, and Fluids were just below max.

When I check the resevior when is cold, the fluid is a little below the MIN line, I take off the cap to add and it bubbles back up past the MAX line....

Im lost here, Thanks for the help.
 
I would run what they call a "Block test". Very few people know about it, only expert mechanics. It is a tool that tests the cooling system/radiator for HC (Hydrocarbons) or to the uneducated "exhaust gases".

That will tell you if you cracked the block, a head or if you warped the head gasket sealing surfaces enough to let coolant flow to the combustion chamber and burn. And Yes, you can burn coolant inside an engine and not see it in the exhaust. Just ask anyone with a MK3 supra.
 
I saw that video... pretty cool. I talked to a mechanic I know, he said it sounds like a head gasket. But since it is, or even might be, by the time I make all the purches to test and replace the stuff, I could do a 3L swap... got lots of questions for that too tho, in the 3L forum. Thanks guys.
 
Back
Top