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Clacking, Ticking noise - oilpan area.

I don't know if they removed the flex plate.

The story is, I took my car to have the 1-2 bang shift corrected. They noticed the tranny mounts were bad so I had them replaced. During the mount replacement, they cracked the tranny housing. So they replaced it with a used one that has 80,000 miles. Runs great. So, I am not sure what's involved when they removed my old tranny.

The dealer checked the tranny they installed and told me it was the lifters making those poad noise. There was no problem with the tranny nor felx plate, ect.

I was told to add a quart of transmission oil to the engine and it would resolves the issue.

Also was told that by using Mobil 1 Synthetic Oil, it usually make the noise worse and that I should resort back to regular oil increase the weight to 10W30 ad possible add B&G to it if I don't want to add the tranny fluid.

Has anyone heard of such fixes?
 
In my Automotive care class I took in high school we had a guest speaker talk about engine oil addatives, and strongly suggested NOT to use them. Oil is already formulated to be the best possible thing for you engine, adding chemicals to the oil alters the basic mix of the oil and can actually cause more problems than fix.

However, there is one acception, and I would suggest anything lucas to the engine/trans, lucas products do actually do as they say they will do, anything else out there really is kind of a gimick
 
In my Automotive care class I took in high school we had a guest speaker talk about engine oil addatives, and strongly suggested NOT to use them. Oil is already formulated to be the best possible thing for you engine, adding chemicals to the oil alters the basic mix of the oil and can actually cause more problems than fix.

However, there is one acception, and I would suggest anything lucas to the engine/trans, lucas products do actually do as they say they will do, anything else out there really is kind of a gimick


So, what exactly oil should I use and which type of additive? What about BG Products?
 
Do not add that crap. Are you sure it's not the a/c clutch making the noise? They make a death rattle when they go. Open the hood and listen down in the passenger side front. Where in MI are you? Most knowledgable CEGers reside here.
 
just givin props to what the guy said about lucas, it really works and my car runs better, gets better gas mileage. It really does do everything it says it does. You'll notice a major difference when you use it.
 
Might want to post in the EGL region and ask if you can take your car to someone. Always someone to lend a hand. I'm on the W. side or else I would.
 
Lucas is crap. A friend of mine sent it to Blackstone for analysis, and when it came back it looked exactly like regular motor oil, except with a much higher viscosity. No significant amounts of ZDDP in there (the most important anti-wear additive). The only way Lucas helps is if your car has severely worn bearings and low oil pressure, and needs something to thicken the oil up. But buying 20w50 and using that instead would be much cheaper and do exactly the same thing.

As far as BG products, forget it. I work on cars at a dealership and yes, I sell these services all the time. We call them "wallet flushes." They don't do anything. Neither will adding ATF to your oil. Forget it.

Chances are when you went to the dealer and mentioned clicking, they automatically said "collapsed lifter!" But as you said, it's coming from the bottom end. Nowhere near the lifters. Take your car back there and tell them to fix it for real. Don't fall for any more flushes or "services". Just have them fix it like they should have the first time, and certainly don't pay any more money. They broke it, they'll need to fix it.
 
I live in the shelby area and would be more than willing to listen to it run and see if i can decifer where the noise is coming from. send me a pm
 
Lucas is crap. A friend of mine sent it to Blackstone for analysis, and when it came back it looked exactly like regular motor oil, except with a much higher viscosity. No significant amounts of ZDDP in there (the most important anti-wear additive). The only way Lucas helps is if your car has severely worn bearings and low oil pressure, and needs something to thicken the oil up. But buying 20w50 and using that instead would be much cheaper and do exactly the same thing.

As far as BG products, forget it. I work on cars at a dealership and yes, I sell these services all the time. We call them "wallet flushes." They don't do anything. Neither will adding ATF to your oil. Forget it.

Chances are when you went to the dealer and mentioned clicking, they automatically said "collapsed lifter!" But as you said, it's coming from the bottom end. Nowhere near the lifters. Take your car back there and tell them to fix it for real. Don't fall for any more flushes or "services". Just have them fix it like they should have the first time, and certainly don't pay any more money. They broke it, they'll need to fix it.

The dealer put in on the hoist and showed me where the noise was coming from. They said the lifters and some other words they used I forgot. They said it travels through the engine and may appear to to sound like the bottom of the or near the oil pan.

So, now what do I do to correct this other than replacing? I use Mobil 1 synthetic 5X30. What else should I try? I think this noise actually increaded when I started using synthetic. Maybe a heavier oil with some additive?
 
So, now what do I do to correct this other than replacing? I use Mobil 1 synthetic 5X30. What else should I try? I think this noise actually increaded when I started using synthetic. Maybe a heavier oil with some additive?
Well, there's no such thing as a cure all in a bottle for engine problems. If all you are looking to do is hide the symptoms for awhile, I suppose there are all kinds of potions out there. Understand that whatever the problem is will eventually get worse over time. However if you are interested in fixing the problem, then replacing the offending bits are your only option.
Karl
 
I was told to stop using the Mobil1 5W30 Synthetic oil and resort back to the conventional oil 5W20 which flows easier amd add STP Blue which has engine-quieting properties? But I wanted to use 10W30 and not 5W20....

Then I read that the variable cam timing mechanism on that engine doesn't particularly like 10W30 and stay with 5W30 and to use Motorcraft 5w30 semi synthetic.

It appears that the Mobil1 5W30 is the most problematic oil with numerous noise complaints.

In addition, I use the Motorcraft FL-2005. Although, someone suggest to use FL-200S, the "S" signals silicon ADBV. But, I have never heard of that.

Where do you get Motorcraft 5w30 semi synthetic or should I use another brand - synthetic or non?

Thanks

1999 Ford Contour L4-122 2.0L DOHC SFI.
Manufactured: 10/98
 
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I've not seen Motorcraft oil anywhere outside of a dealership. Not even at places that sell Motorcraft oil filters. Valvoline makes Durablend which is a synthetic blend and it comes in 5W30. Other outfits make blends too. Somewhere there's a post (maybe in the archives) that says who makes Motorcraft oil so they'd be a choice too I suppose.
Karl
 
Changing the brand or viscosity of oil will not fix a mechanical problem. They only told you this because they don't want to deal with whatever they messed up. If your car wasn't tapping or rattling before they worked on it, and it is now, they broke something and you need to force them to have a real technician look at it and fix it. If you want, get a second opinion from an independent shop (keep the receipts) and get a lawyer. Don't speak to anyone lower than the service manager. I'm a dealership tech and take it from me, money is the only language management knows. When they get a call/letter from an attorney, they'll change their mind real quick and fix whatever they F'd up.
 
Changing the brand or viscosity of oil will not fix a mechanical problem. They only told you this because they don't want to deal with whatever they messed up. If your car wasn't tapping or rattling before they worked on it, and it is now, they broke something and you need to force them to have a real technician look at it and fix it. If you want, get a second opinion from an independent shop (keep the receipts) and get a lawyer. Don't speak to anyone lower than the service manager. I'm a dealership tech and take it from me, money is the only language management knows. When they get a call/letter from an attorney, they'll change their mind real quick and fix whatever they F'd up.

Thanks. I already mentioned they put the car on the hoist with it running and the service manager was there along with the tech who put the tranny in. All of us heard the noise and they pointed out where it was coming from, on top and rear engine (bucket tappets) that can radiate sounds throughout the engine. I guess I need the valve bucket tappets adjusted with shims?

Also, Motorcraft 5W30 Synthetic Blend can be purchased at Murray's Auto Store along with Motorcraft FL-2005 Oil Filter.
 
If that's the case, it's a simple valve clearance issue. Remove the valve covers and check the clearance with a feeler gauge. Too much clearance causes tapping, not the other way around. If it is out of spec on any valve, you'll need to install shims.
 
If that's the case, it's a simple valve clearance issue. Remove the valve covers and check the clearance with a feeler gauge. Too much clearance causes tapping, not the other way around. If it is out of spec on any valve, you'll need to install shims.

I will use the Motorcraft 5W30 Synthetic Blend, Motorcraft FL-2005 Oil Filter, and additive....

...which additive would be the best to use?

STP Blue, STP Red, or Lucas - but there are several type.

Then when I can afford it, I will have the valve clearance checked.
 
Walmart or Autozone much?:shrug:
Sure. Pepboys too but never saw Motorcraft oil. Only filters. Didn't say they didn't stock it - only that I didn't see it. I usually buy oil and filters at the same time unless I've stocked up on one or the other last time I shopped.
Karl
 
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