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Brake problem

I

intravino

CEG'er
Joined
Sep 9, 2004
Messages
169
Location
Montreal
Hi,


I had a grease money work on my car for a wheel bearing and after I had this noise that goes away when I brake.

I check the bolts of the caliper to the knuckle and they were fine, the brake spring are fine also.

The noise is from the drivers side and the disk rotor have a lot of play compared to the passenger's side.

I made two small videos:

Driver side:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XsesL6R-N-Y


Pass side:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FJxgc_5SOrY


Thanks,


Intravino
 
they are supposed to be loose, the wheel bolted on will hold the rotors from moving. the reason is the on rotor the otherside is rusted on to the hub flange. and im willing to bet the rotor that loose is the wheel bearing side that was replaced.
 
they are supposed to be loose, the wheel bolted on will hold the rotors from moving. the reason is the on rotor the otherside is rusted on to the hub flange. and im willing to bet the rotor that loose is the wheel bearing side that was replaced.

Yes that is right. the bearing was replaced.


Sorry for a dumb question..... what does the noise sound like?

It sounds like something is not turning round and loose, but when I apply then brakes, the sound disappears. I don't have to turn the wheel to hear the sound, it does it on a strain line. I think it does it's also in neutral when coasting.

Any ideas???


Thanks,



Intravino
 
So it's intermittent, and applying the brakes stops it - is it a scraping noise, a squeal, a tick, or grinding? Can you feel it as well as hear it? The more descriptive you are, the more we can help.
 
So it's intermittent, and applying the brakes stops it - is it a scraping noise, a squeal, a tick, or grinding? Can you feel it as well as hear it? The more descriptive you are, the more we can help.

It's loud, people on my cell phone can hear it. It's not a scraping sound nor a grinding. It's started when the grease monkey replaced my bearing. It's a rotative sound. I don't fell it in the steering and brake pedal.

It's more a of thumping sound but it's a not CV joint, I just replaced the axle and the sound was there before. BTW, I replaced my lower arm, ball joint, sway bar link. Like I said the sound was there before those repairs. The grease monkey damaged my ball joint.
 
maybe a bad wheel bearing again.... could have been pressed in crooked ot the other wheel bearing is shot too see if you can get a video of the actual noise ...
 
It is possible for it to be a wheel bearing - I just replaced mine Thursday and by Sunday it was already making noise again. Take it back to the mechanic and let him know that it started making noise after you picked it up. It is possible that something happened to break at the same time that was unrelated, too - don't take it out on him, it might not have been his fault at all.
 
maybe a bad wheel bearing again.... could have been pressed in crooked ot the other wheel bearing is shot too see if you can get a video of the actual noise ...

I will make a video but later on this week. Right now the car is on jack stands.

Should I make a video with the car on jack stands?
 
00stealthySVT said:
another thing we all over looked it could be as simple as a warped rotor.
Click to expand...

He said he can't feel it in the brake pedal or steering wheel though.

Intravino, do the caliper retainer springs look like they are installed the same on both sides? They are on, I can see them in the videos, but I can't see them very clearly. The driver's side might be incorrectly installed and are not pulling the pads away from the rotor surface when the brakes are not actively engaged. They are the wire pieces that are on the outside of the caliper. Make sure the driver's side looks the same as the passenger side. They're a pain to get on sometimes.

Also, if you are able to safely get a video of it with the wheels turning while it's up on jackstands, that would be very helpful. Put the wheel on and tighten it up, leave it in neutral, and turn the wheel by hand first to see if you can make the noise. If you can't make the noise by turning the wheel by hand, then you can run it on the jackstands, just be really careful. Let the clutch out, no gas, and it should turn the wheels so you can make the video.

If the driver's side rotor was rusted onto the hub like the passenger side currently is, then the mechanic might have had to use creative measures to get it loose. When I replaced my rotors, I had to take a hammer to the back side of mine to get them loose. I wasn't going to reuse them, so it was ok if I damaged them - and I really had to beat on them to get them loose. Maybe this guy put a small nick or dent in the rotor surface that's scraping. Take a look at the inner face of the rotor on the driver's side - is it smooth all the way around?
 
ive had warped rotor that you couldnt feel when braking, all depends on how bad they are warped... also check the caliper bolts
 
Please read post #23 by Rara, who is (was?) a brake engineer on the subject of warped rotors: http://www.contour.org/ceg-vb/showthread.php?39620-Rotors-bad-after-one-year&p=574998

In my professional experience, "warped" rotors are virtually non-existant. Overheating leads to uneven pad deposition or uneven wear on the face of the rotors. Most typically, on street car pads, the actual cause is pad material deposition on the rotor, sort of "smearing". And its not always visible to the naked eye. I've had many sets of development rotors that had to be sent back for analysis to determine how much pad deposition there really was. Even on my team's race cars, I've never had a rotor "warp". I've had my drivers melt and bend pad backing plates, and weld them to the pistons, and still no "warped" rotors.
Click to expand...
 
Wow, did it sound like that as soon as you left the shop? It sounds like your something didn't get secured properly and is banging around on the inside of the wheel. I would take it back to the shop you used and have they guy take a look at it, especially if you can see that everything is bolted securely in the wheel well.
 
It was not a shop, It was a grease monkey that normally works at a ford dealer, imagine :(


It did not sound like that at first, the second day after getting the car, it started slowly to sound like that but not as loud.

After 100 miles, it sounded like now. Remember that I changed myself, the axle, the transmission seal, the lower control arm and the sway bar link after the monkeys repair.

He told me that the axle was gone on the drivers side and the seal ( it was true ) . I decided to change also the LCA and the SBlink also.

Now, the sound is the same or worst.

Can it that the hub is damaged ?
 
I would still call him back and ask him what he thinks, maybe ask him for an estimate.

Did the noise start before you replaced all that stuff, or after? A jackstand video would be helpful. Take the wheel off, and run the lugnuts down far enough to secure the rotor in place. Then you can look and see if you can pinpoint the noise.
 
So I'm pretty sure I'm not hearing it with the wheel off. I hear the brake pads making noise, but I don't hear the clanking noise at all.

I'm wondering if maybe there's a problem with the wheel itself. You can be sure it's not the wheel if you rotate the fronts. Also I'm noticing a bit of wobble in the entire wheel in your 0:16 video.

I also am wondering how tight you torqued the hub down. It almost looks to me like it's wobbling a bit at about 0:50 in your 0:59 video. Sometimes they'll seem tight until you get it down on the ground and move the wheel around a bit, and they'll get a little loose. I don't know the torque specs on the hub off the top of my head, but I'm sure it's around here somewhere.
 
I'm wondering if maybe there's a problem with the wheel itself.

I replaced it with a spare summer tire rim and they same result. So it's not the wheel.


I also am wondering how tight you torqued the hub down. It almost looks to me like it's wobbling a bit at about 0:50 in your 0:59 video. Sometimes they'll seem tight until you get it down on the ground and move the wheel around a bit, and they'll get a little loose. I don't know the torque specs on the hub off the top of my head, but I'm sure it's around here somewhere.

I did check this about 5 times now. I've checked it again this morning after reading your post. I have the same number of thread exposed as the other axle side (passenger). The spec is 212 lbs.

Can it be the wheel bearing? Remember that the grease monkey replaced the bearing.

Or the caliper touching the wheel? It's not the brake springs, I replaced them yesterday.


Thanks,


Intravino
 
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