• Welcome to the Contour Enthusiasts Group, the best resource for the Ford Contour and Mercury Mystique.

    You can register to join the community.

Bought an LC-1 (Innovate 3795)

CSVT#49

CSVT#49

Addicted CEG'er
Joined
May 28, 2004
Messages
6,768
Location
Andover, MN
I've got to say I scored a deal in my opinion and anyone else can too if you want an Innovate DB gauge kit. Details are below. However I had some questions about installation as well.

Atlantic Speed Warehouse (authorized dealer of Innovate) on eBay has the kits going for buy it now at $289+free shipping or best offer. Well I shot them an offer of $250 plus I wanted the stainless steel bung/plug kit (Innovate 3736) so I could weld it into my test pipe. As it turned out they accepted the $250 and for an extra $5 I got the stainless steel bung. However heres the best part, it shipped in less then 26 hours. The package came from SC to my house in MN. Now thats service.

Anyway for the guys that have these how did you go about mounting them?? I mean I have an idea as to where I want to put the bung buy what about routing of the sensor, wiring (where did you tap into), etc. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Also any pics would be fantastic.
 
My sensor is on the top of my cat pipe... in front of the cat (between it and the flange). I then removed the heat shield above that pipe, and pulled the carpet up that's behind the floor vent box. I then located a spot that would come up behind the vent, and avoided the reinforced or welded areas (checking from both the top side and under side). I used a 1" hole cutting bit for the hole, got a 1" blank grommet (slit then cut center to clear the wire). After reinstalling the heat shield, I needed to bend a little bit of the front end to clear the o2 wire. I have the lc-1 unit mounted inside, under the center console and next to the shifter. For power, I'm using the stereo's switched power, and ran the ground out the firewall to the bracket below the DPFE... the bracket where the knock sensor connector is attached.

I mounted the XD-16 gauge (with foam tape) to the plastic gauge cluster cover, right in front of my disabled temp gauge.

Unfortunately, I didn't take any pictures during the install.
 
that's about what i did, but i didnt mount my guage vertically. i mounted it at a 45 degree angle. i have the AEM wideband though. i ran the wire up the hole where the trunk release is, across the trim, and into the center console. the stainless steel bung came with mine and i paid 250$ ;)
 
I also had my bung installed in the section of piping before the cat. It was a tight fit as I had to grind off a small section on the axle bracket, but it wasn't a big deal. I ran the wiring up over the alternator, zip tied everything down and then ran into the cabin via a hole I had previously for my S-AFC near the ECU hole.
 
well I finally installed my LC-1 the other weekend. I ran the wires through the steering column boot. I drilled the one inch whole in the plastic and then cut a slit in the rubber to run the sensor and wires through. It comes down right behind the sway bar and has a clear run over to the exhaust behind the rear roll restrictor. The control unit is behind the kick panel next to the gas pedal. ran the wire under the carpet over to that point. I grounded everything to the metal dash frame behind the lower dash panel. I check as suggested on the Inovate Motorsports webpage and only had a voltage offset of 0.02 volts when I set the LC-1 to output a constant 2.5 volts. But then again I have the battery in the trunk grounded to the frame, instead of having the main ground to the engine. I also have to output scaled for the Autometer A/F guage which works well. I need to adjust the range some as using the logging software that came with the LC-1 I am hitting ~11:1 under wot but the guage doesn't go all the way rich. I had great luck getting Live Link to display the A/F ratio when compared to the LC-1 data logging software.
 
Make sure you don't have anything else grounded in that area. I have several things (including the lc-1) grounded to the braces under the dash, for the tube frame, and I think my overlays are causing interference. I'll soon be running my lc-1 ground out to the engine. I think this is also the reason my 2way radio sometimes causes my xd16 to freak out and go offline.
 
morbid said:
Make sure you don't have anything else grounded in that area. I have several things (including the lc-1) grounded to the braces under the dash, for the tube frame, and I think my overlays are causing interference. I'll soon be running my lc-1 ground out to the engine. I think this is also the reason my 2way radio sometimes causes my xd16 to freak out and go offline.
Click to expand...


actually my alarm and guages are ... like I said I didn't get any ground offset or interference.
 
I've been having problems with my LC-1. It seems after a week of running it loses the calibration and the gauge pegs to 22.4

I recalibrate it and it's fine for another week or so. Very weird. Almost like the LC-1 controller is losing power momentarily and it resets. I'm pulling power off of the connector under the center console, which I believe is used for automatic cars...

Any ideas guys? The Innovate Motorsports guys told me to send it in for warranty, but that's a royal pain in the a$$ to uninstall and reinstall later the way I have mine routed.
 
i don't know about loosing memory. I set mine up and made sure I could data log it with my xcal2 when I got it like a year ago. I install everything and left the sensor unplugged as directed and got an error. when I plugged the sensor it in fired right up and worked.
 
Yeah.. I wouldn't want to uninstall mine either. Re-check all the wires and connections... maybe try a different ground point and power source.

Also, maybe something is activating the recalibration? Did you get the XD16 or do you have the calibration light & switch?
 
CSVT#49 said:
I've got to say I scored a deal in my opinion and anyone else can too if you want an Innovate DB gauge kit. Details are below. However I had some questions about installation as well.

Atlantic Speed Warehouse (authorized dealer of Innovate) on eBay has the kits going for buy it now at $289+free shipping or best offer. Well I shot them an offer of $250 plus I wanted the stainless steel bung/plug kit (Innovate 3736) so I could weld it into my test pipe. As it turned out they accepted the $250 and for an extra $5 I got the stainless steel bung. However heres the best part, it shipped in less then 26 hours. The package came from SC to my house in MN. Now thats service.

Anyway for the guys that have these how did you go about mounting them?? I mean I have an idea as to where I want to put the bung buy what about routing of the sensor, wiring (where did you tap into), etc. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Also any pics would be fantastic.
Click to expand...


Good call. I ordered my LC1 from atlantic speed off of ebay. I did the same thing, I offered more but wanted a different gauge with it :). Enjoy
 
morbid said:
Yeah.. I wouldn't want to uninstall mine either. Re-check all the wires and connections... maybe try a different ground point and power source.

Also, maybe something is activating the recalibration? Did you get the XD16 or do you have the calibration light & switch?
Click to expand...


I have the light and switch. However they would not be getting triggered.

The guy I talked to at Innovate Motorsports said he thought the power source could be cutting out. However I doubt thats the case. Although I could try pulling power from somewhere else... I just don't know where short from running a wire directly from my battery then fusing it. My OEM fuse box is jammed full of electronics. The circuit that it's hooked into now is not very loaded. I know it's getting at least 12V when the ignition is on as I used a Fluke to monitor it while I was driving and during startup.
 
Dyoel182 said:
I wasnt sure thats what he was talking about. I assumed he meant he would ditch the narrow band when he hardwired the LC1 and got a gauge for it.
Click to expand...


yes you can get the matching gauge if you like, but I am saying it works well with the narrow band gauge. The output is scaled to display correctly on the narrow band gauge from the wideband sensor. It doesn't behave like the narrow band gauge connected to a narrow band sensor
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top