ctmystique
Hard-core CEG'er
If the wheels are spinning slowly and you can stop them easily I wouldn't worry about that. I believe that is not uncommon.
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Blu's 1995 Contour SE 3L build thread
- Thread starter blu_fuz
- Start date
yeah that seems right. I remember this happening with other cars we have worked on out here.
todras
Pretty fly for a white guy *cowbell*
Yep. It's normal.
blu_fuz
New Member Classroom vulture
After 4.5 months being down, I am finished! I just need to install the front bumper and plastic wheel well liners for the front. No leaks still, car is staying nice and cool, no misses, no cel's.
I really want to get this dyno'd now, I would hate to be starving the motor of fuel.
Would the motor start to make any noise if it was starting to show signs of not enough fuel?
27 problem free miles on it right now. I bled the clutch again and finally it is 100%.
The air fuel ratio gauge is definetly reading in the "ideal" range down towards the "lean" side and even leaving the gauge completely on the lean side:blackeye:. When I 3/4 throttle it climbs up into the "ideal" to semi "rich" portion.
High temp powder coat does not hold up on headers I am finding out :blackeye:. Burns off and is smelly, yuk
Any suggestions for the future:shrug:?
@ 500 miles change:
-oil
-trans fluid
-bleed clutch again?
I really want to get this dyno'd now, I would hate to be starving the motor of fuel.
Would the motor start to make any noise if it was starting to show signs of not enough fuel?
27 problem free miles on it right now. I bled the clutch again and finally it is 100%.
The air fuel ratio gauge is definetly reading in the "ideal" range down towards the "lean" side and even leaving the gauge completely on the lean side:blackeye:. When I 3/4 throttle it climbs up into the "ideal" to semi "rich" portion.
High temp powder coat does not hold up on headers I am finding out :blackeye:. Burns off and is smelly, yuk
Any suggestions for the future:shrug:?
@ 500 miles change:
-oil
-trans fluid
-bleed clutch again?
todras
Pretty fly for a white guy *cowbell*
I'd leave the clutch and trans alone. Change the oil since it has assembly lube.
blu_fuz
New Member Classroom vulture
Yah, that's what they told me at the motor shop.
I will def. change the oil and if the clutch doesn't feel right, I might bleed that again, but it feels good now. Trans is pretty much all new, so I will go out 15K on it and change that fluid too. Can't hurt.
What about my A/F, should I continue to drive it with moderate to low fuel injection? Should I just call up nautilis to get a chip burned befrore a dyno?
Or dyno the car first, that whay they can get an accurate measure of A/F throughout your rpm range. So they will have more to work with when dialing in your tune.
SicSE
Veteran CEG'er
I'll keep trying...
Your A/F gauge is meaningless at anything other than WOT.
Your A/F gauge is meaningless at anything other than WOT.
Don't even bother looking at your gauge when you're not at WOT, until you understand your PCM's fuel strategy during closed loop operation.
Get someone to ride with you somewhere that you can do a WOT pull from 2K to redline in the highest gear that you have space for. If your gauge reads lean during your WOT pull anywhere above 3K, THEN you DO have a fuel problem and should drive it as little as possible until you can get it tuned. If it stays in the "ideal" range or richer, you should be happy that things are working as they are supposed to.
If you're going to have fuel delivery issues, (over-lean, or over-rich), you WILL throw a code after only a few WOT pulls.
blu_fuz
New Member Classroom vulture
ok...... thanks for "trying again" - I get it now. I will be in a somewhat "safe" zone for driving if my WOT is atleast "ideal" to "rich".
if you want to know for sure you will need to get a wideband O2 sensor ....
blu_fuz
New Member Classroom vulture
I know, I know...... errrrr 
Tex
Hard-core CEG'er
Exactly. I can be at 3/4 throttle and 15:1 A/F, but when I give it that last little bit and floor it, I go to 11.5:1. If you want a NIB wideband, I saw that the sho-source website from the LIM GB sells Autometer widebands for $240. That's probably within a couple of dollars of the cheapest you will find one. Someone said earlier that they aren't always accurate, but mine consistently reads between 14.5 and 15.0, when cruising, which is right where it should be (14.7), so I trust it to be pretty accurate.
todras
Pretty fly for a white guy *cowbell*
Doesn't a stock 3L come with 21 lb injectors? If so I don't see how 17 lbers would be enough.
blu_fuz
New Member Classroom vulture
blu_fuz
New Member Classroom vulture
I am tired of posting everywhere to get my A/F situation worked out. I just need it safe.
This is what I have installed:
'95 Lim
'95 return fuel rail
'95 17# injectors
I have bought:
SCT Eliminator Chiphttps://laclinux.com/~larry/picasa/sc_flipchip/target0.html
this:
Pro-MAF "poor man's tuning"http://img381.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc02112hc2.jpg
and now a bunch of SVT LIMs, fuel rails, and injectors. I hope to gosh to not need pigtails of wire harness' for years of SVTs that I don't even know, to match the years the other parts originated from. blah <--- see now it is really making no sence even when I type it :nonono:
This is what I have installed:
'95 Lim
'95 return fuel rail
'95 17# injectors
I have bought:
SCT Eliminator Chiphttps://laclinux.com/~larry/picasa/sc_flipchip/target0.html
this:
Pro-MAF "poor man's tuning"http://img381.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc02112hc2.jpg
and now a bunch of SVT LIMs, fuel rails, and injectors. I hope to gosh to not need pigtails of wire harness' for years of SVTs that I don't even know, to match the years the other parts originated from. blah <--- see now it is really making no sence even when I type it :nonono:
any SVT LIM will be fine.
all 98 thru 99 return fuel rails are the same.
go for the 19# orange SVT injectors. I can't confirm but I think they maybe the same as the 95, at least they look the same as the ones on my 95 zetec .... if that helps or not.
I have never seen a 95 injector so its hard to comment.
all 98 thru 99 return fuel rails are the same.
go for the 19# orange SVT injectors. I can't confirm but I think they maybe the same as the 95, at least they look the same as the ones on my 95 zetec .... if that helps or not.
I have never seen a 95 injector so its hard to comment.
so did you have to change the fuel lines or are those what the 95 lines look like? what you have pictured is identical to the post 98 return fuel system fuel line connectors
blu_fuz
New Member Classroom vulture
Just high pressure hoses and clamps ?? Do you keep a fire extinguisher with you Mosh? I am sure they wouldn't leak, but I would worry. BK4293 from chi-town lost his 3L because of a leaky fuel rail and that scares me. Looks simple enough though.....