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Anyone here using the NPG adapter plates for a "port matched" build?

S

ScottyDsntKnow

Veteran CEG'er
Joined
Dec 24, 2008
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Location
Brick, NJ
I would like to do a full 3L and a ST220 intake, however my CSVT is about to become my daily again with no backup vehicle for at least the next 6 months. So I need to be able to pull out the 2.5L and drop a 3.0L right in and be able to drive the next day. I know the port match is a plug and play and obviously I would get it tuned soon afterwards. I do not want to port for a few reasons. 1 is that I've had bad experineces in the past with porting things myself and 2, I want to be able to pull the CSVT intake off at some point and go full 3.0L with the ST220 and deleted IRCM and the NPG adapters would allow this. I don't care about spending the extra $300ish, I'd honestly rather spend that money and be able to bolt the intake on with 0 porting even if I was not looking at leaving the full 3.0L option open.
 
i know your asking about a portmatched, but heres a few things that would greatly improve the time neded for an full swap
if you have everything in advance you wont need to make trips to the store to pick up more parts

-buy about 5ft of tubing, i think its called fuel line tubing, to use for the vacumm lines, and a few 90* elbows and enough hose clamps
-go to the junk yard and grab the 3 longer plug wires that go to the rear bank(you will use them for the front)
-enough wire to soldier extention wires for the coilpack connector, or you can buy a male and female connectors and use that as an extension.
-your gonna need alright welding skills to fab up a tb bracket, this will probably take the longest just because of planning
-have an npg fuel rail adapter
-make sure to have some axle boots and clamps too.
-it depends on your style injector connectors, but you might have to cut off your old ones and soldier in the connectors from the 3L harness.

i cant think of anythign else. but if you have all of that done, or at least most of it. your swap will be ready to just bolt on and drop with out making trips to the store
 
aboythatskates said:
i know your asking about a portmatched, but heres a few things that would greatly improve the time neded for an full swap
if you have everything in advance you wont need to make trips to the store to pick up more parts

-buy about 5ft of tubing, i think its called fuel line tubing, to use for the vacumm lines, and a few 90* elbows and enough hose clamps
-go to the junk yard and grab the 3 longer plug wires that go to the rear bank(you will use them for the front)
-enough wire to soldier extention wires for the coilpack connector, or you can buy a male and female connectors and use that as an extension.
-your gonna need alright welding skills to fab up a tb bracket, this will probably take the longest just because of planning
-have an npg fuel rail adapter
-make sure to have some axle boots and clamps too.
-it depends on your style injector connectors, but you might have to cut off your old ones and soldier in the connectors from the 3L harness.

i cant think of anythign else. but if you have all of that done, or at least most of it. your swap will be ready to just bolt on and drop with out making trips to the store
Click to expand...


And what does that have to do with his question.
 
aboythatskates said:
i know your asking about a portmatched, but heres a few things that would greatly improve the time neded for an full swap
if you have everything in advance you wont need to make trips to the store to pick up more parts

-buy about 5ft of tubing, i think its called fuel line tubing, to use for the vacumm lines, and a few 90* elbows and enough hose clamps
-go to the junk yard and grab the 3 longer plug wires that go to the rear bank(you will use them for the front)
-enough wire to soldier extention wires for the coilpack connector, or you can buy a male and female connectors and use that as an extension.
-your gonna need alright welding skills to fab up a tb bracket, this will probably take the longest just because of planning
-have an npg fuel rail adapter
-make sure to have some axle boots and clamps too.
-it depends on your style injector connectors, but you might have to cut off your old ones and soldier in the connectors from the 3L harness.

i cant think of anythign else. but if you have all of that done, or at least most of it. your swap will be ready to just bolt on and drop with out making trips to the store
Click to expand...

Summary = No ScottyDsntKnow I've never used the NPG adapter plate because I have a full 3.0L setup. LOL


On topic though, I haven't used it but from what I can tell this is a viable option if you'd like to run a close to stock setup initially so you can retain drive-ability and then move to a full 3.0L setup down the line. I'd probably email the guys over at NPG to see what they think before purchasing it. I think personally if you want to go 3.0L eventually, with the money you'll spend on the NPG adapter you can probably do everything necessary for a full 3.0L swap initially and then just upgrade your supporting components like intake, exhaust, etc., in the future.
 
And if you do go the full 3.0L set up later, you can always sell the adaptor to recoup some of the costs.
 
Actually that 3l swap list was helpful. I can always drive my Expy 60 miles round trip to work for a few weeks while i do a full 3l but that thing gets 17mpg on a good day lol...

Does anyone on here make tb brackets for the 3l swap? I have about 0 welding skills although i do have a no name fluxcore welder in my garage that i got off ebay a few years back. Might be a good time to learn?

Other issue i keep going back and forth on is that my 2.5l has less than 40k on the rebuild that the PO did on it. I had all the receipts for it when i got it and it runs great so i might actually just leave that in for the time being and put a 3.0l block on my engine stand to start building up... my other worry is that a 3.0l would grenade the transmission and i dont have the spare income to do a terry haines build with a quaife right meow...
 
its more likely going to grenade it if you beat the piss out of it, doing dumb things like one wheel peels, and wheel hop being the biggest enemy. its more about driving style, limit the tq shock the trans will see, shift smoothly for example. it appears you have a cobra, thats the car for that kind of fun.
 
Sold the Cobra last fall :( should probably update my sig... and no i dont drive like a moron lol. Ill get ahold of npg and see if i need anything special for the npg adapters.
 
Well, if I do a 3L and have 220whp on tap I might get on it a bit from a roll and around corners but that's it. With so many basic sedans pushing that number off the showroom floor. No idea when I'd ever try to race anyone from a light not to mention its illegal as hell and I've seen what can happen when morons race on the street. I think I got light to light racing out of my system years ago lol. I won alot with that Cobra tho... Not having it anymore is making me kind of sad. Sort of looking around for another 5.0, this time a 94/95 GT and a convertible. I know so much about those cars I can pull them apart and put them back together in my sleep... Then I'd just use the CSVT as my DD again which it is complete and totally badass for. I really never had a more fun DD than my CSVT.
 
Sorry to get off topic. My buddy is looking to sell his 94 gt conv 5 speed. Cars is in pretty good shape.
Has mach1 wheels,shorty headers,catless hpipe and summit brand cat back, smog delete pulley
Cold air intake and ram hd clutch and not sure what brand clutch cable and quad.
Pm if more interested i can get you his number.
 
Heh, sry not interested right now. Deploying for 3 months this summer so id be buying after that for an over winter project. Need to get the csvt running asap though since my dd right now is my truck and its killing me in gas...
 
you know what costs more than gas??? engine swaps.

but you dont need anything special for the NPG fuel adaptor maybe some vaseline for the o-rings. (it comes with new o-rings too btw) i made a mount for mine but it's not necessary.
 
And what costs more than an engine swap?

Etown2010003.jpg


Yeah, I couldn't help myself after threads like this got me to missing my old Cobra and then I stumbled upon this beauty literally an hour away, lots of mods and less than I sold my Cobra for. Done and done, its in my garage right now lol.

Think I might just ditch the 3.0 swap, drill that pin out of my transmission in the CSVT, make it my DD again and drive the Mustang to work on nice summer days. I will say it hauls all kinds of ass. Probably making 260-270whp as it sits but coupled with 3.73s and Nitto DRs that isn't too shabby.
 
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