Adding some spark to regain some low end on my 3L

[MapOfTaziFoSho]

Full oval port 3L so no secondaries obviously. I am just curious as to how to add spark safely. I say safely because my car has no knock sensor (thank you ford).

I haven't really looked at the software in a while so I cannot recall what anything looks like. IIRC there is a global spark adder...

Any input would be great. Once my power comes back on I will get my laptop charged. (I am on a university computer)

 

[ViggenPower]

1" ID copper tube bolted to the block

OLD SCHOOL!

Being around many OEM cals...you can move probably 3-4 degrees either way pretty safely.

BTW Denso makes knock sensors.

-Tim

 

[warmonger]

Full oval port 3L so no secondaries obviously. I am just curious as to how to add spark safely. I say safely because my car has no knock sensor (thank you ford).

I haven't really looked at the software in a while so I cannot recall what anything looks like. IIRC there is a global spark adder...

Any input would be great. Once my power comes back on I will get my laptop charged. (I am on a university computer)

Yes. The answer is ....DON'T MESS with the global adder! j/k you could use it if you liked the tune you had but wanted to add a few degrees to it for use with 100+ octane or something like that.

You reallyneed to change the "borderline_knock_table" and the "max_allowed_spark" table.

Then look in the rpm range you had prior to IMRC opening, about 3500 and below. You can then multiply all those values by about 10% or 1.10

If you want to take the time, you disable the whole IMRC section, you then add 5* or so and drive it. Keep adding timing until you can tell that you aren't helping anything, then you will retard it a few degress.

Demon SVT can probably help more about this as he has tuned to NOT USE the IMRC and set up his timing curves.

 

[Barge]

You can add a pretty decent amount of timing without the IMRC's... mostly because it's running less efficiently really and needs more time to burn a slow filling crappier distributed cylinder.

Just raise the timing until the spark plugs melt [that was a joke, if you're too stupid to figure that out... put the PRP down and back away slowly]

Really there's no way to tell what the ideal timing is without a load bearing and load holding dyno.

Not sure how the IMRC sections works on cars different than mine but I believe mine just added 10 degrees or whatever after the IMRC's had opened. Unless there's something in the PRP that wasn't in the twEECer the IMRC stuff doesn't do anything to the spark table when the IMRC's are closed. I haven't had a chance to study the PRP software that well though.