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97 contour 2.0 clattering

S

soyomb

Be Gentle I'm New Here
Joined
Nov 23, 2007
Messages
3
here's the deal:

under higher rpms, the engine clatters, whether driving or standing still.
no loss of power and no excessive gas consumption. it also idles fine.

i'm thinking it has something to do with advancement or retardation of the timing.

hence, the knock sensor comes to mind.

anyone have ideas about this before i spend $40 on a new sensor?

update. just removed oil filler cap when running. there's a pulsing pressure coming out and it sounds like an exhaust pipe.
 
1 - if my thought is correct, after reading through the ZX2 forums. Our knock sensor is too sensitive and starts to retard timing at higher rpms.

2- your have a pre98 with hydrolic lifter. Its going to chatter.
 
when was the last time you changed the oil? I suspect its probably just sticky lifters and if you changed the oil it would minimize it.
 
Devanmc said:
2- your have a pre98 with hydrolic lifter. Its going to chatter.
Click to expand...

i would say not. hydraulic lifters are suppose to be quiet, that is why they are used. mechanical lifters will tap away when properly adjusted.

but a hydraulic lifter can make noise is it isn't adjusted correctly.
 
while the hydraulic lifters are supposed to be quiter, they have a tendency to get sticky and then will make noise, so much so that it sounds kind of like a diesel engine. lol
 
striker2 said:
while the hydraulic lifters are supposed to be quiter, they have a tendency to get sticky and then will make noise, so much so that it sounds kind of like a diesel engine. lol
Click to expand...


and that is the reason why the zetec needs to be taken above 4k rpm at least once daily right? to keep the hydraulic lifters adjusted correctly :laugh:
 
Devanmc said:
1 - if my thought is correct, after reading through the ZX2 forums. Our knock sensor is too sensitive and starts to retard timing at higher rpms.

2- your have a pre98 with hydrolic lifter. Its going to chatter.
Click to expand...
it just started doing this a couple of weeks ago. remember older cars when the timing was adjusted and you had to turn the distributer manually to get rid of the clatter? that's what it's doing.
 
take a listen

take a listen

First check your oil level, if too low add the correct amount.

Find yourself a long large screwdriver and take a listen to the engine. Put the steel end of the screw driver against the area of engine you suspect of having problems. Put the other end against your ear, you will be amazed how much you will hear. This will help you pinpoint the area of trouble. Cheap and damn effective

As for ignition, I doubt this is a problem if your car starts and runs fine. As the car has no distributor, it fires off of a set of sensors, cam and crank. They usually work nor not.
 
Sounds like a typical sticky lifter to me. Try changing your oil, or replace the valve lifters. If you change them, be sure to properly bleed them before installing.
 
mcgarvey said:
Sounds like a typical sticky lifter to me. Try changing your oil, or replace the valve lifters. If you change them, be sure to properly bleed them before installing.
Click to expand...

How do you "properly bleed" them? I see nothing in the haynes manual about that.

I think I have one lifter that is making noise, how can I tell which one? Can I run the engine at idle with the valve cover off without making a big oil mess?

Thanks,
John
 
you don't change just one lifter, you would change them all. then of course you would want to change what the lifter wear against.

i know on the 289 mustang engine my father and I rebuild that the hydraulic lifters had to be filled with oil before we installed them. even after that a few months later one made a ticking sound on the first run. left it overnight and it went away after starting it the next day.


you would be better off make sure you use a good quality oil and change it at a reasonable time frame. also take the engine above 4k rpm daily to keep them adjusted
 
BrApple said:
you don't change just one lifter, you would change them all. then of course you would want to change what the lifter wear against.
Click to expand...

If I have just one that's making noise, why change them all? They are $10-15 apiece. (this is just a get-around-town extra car, not trying to refurb to pristine or anything :) )

BrApple said:
i know on the 289 mustang engine my father and I rebuild that the hydraulic lifters had to be filled with oil before we installed them. even after that a few months later one made a ticking sound on the first run. left it overnight and it went away after starting it the next day.
Click to expand...

I understand the idea of bleeding or pre-oiling the lifters, my question is how do you do that properly on the contour lifters?

BrApple said:
you would be better off make sure you use a good quality oil and change it at a reasonable time frame.
Click to expand...

I do that. But I have a single noisy lifter, and its still noisy :)

BrApple said:
also take the engine above 4k rpm daily to keep them adjusted
Click to expand...

Now this I didn't know, but I've seen reference to it on these fora, but sometimes followed by a "snicker" comment, so I wondered if it is OWT or perhaps a matter of lively debate.

Thanks,
John
 
my conyour sounded exactly like a lifter with air in it but it ended up being the pistons hitting the head. ran fine lots of power etc. just put a new ford headgasket in it to replace the felpro and it still ticks a little but i am thinking exhaust manifold this time which like to get hairline fractures and leak.
 
You do not need to rev the engine to 4000 rpm to adjust lifters. Actually better at lower speeds as long as motor has good oil pressure since a time element to fill is in there. Lifter fills between movements opening valve. One way check activates on cam bump to seal the chamber so faster speeds allow less time to fill even though oil pressure may be coming up then. No need to change all lifters on these either like older cars, just a noisy one. You actually risk killing cam with all new lifters since the cam lobe is run in to the old lifter and will have to re-break in on the new one. Why risk that 16 times? You bleed one by working the plunger up and down while soaking in oil, maybe let it sit overnight in oil after that. You don't necessarily want the lifter entirely full of oil as that could hold valve open and engine will not run right. All that's needed is enough oil inside to prevent dry run on startup. On used ones going back in engine I take a C clamp and squeeze them down flat so can startup too low and fill up to take up just the loose space.
 
I prefill them with diesel fuel, which is a little bit less viscous than motor oil and makes the bleeding process easier. Sounds weird but diesel is what many OEMs recommend.
 
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