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3l doesnt have that get up and go in it n e more :-(

M

montrese04

Veteran CEG'er
Joined
Aug 11, 2008
Messages
835
Location
Indianapolis, in
so i had a 04 taurus motor in my t-red and it had some real kick to it. i ended up taking it out of the t-red and putting it in a silverfrost b/c it tore up the trans in the red. but now that it's in the silver it has no spunk n e more :-(

these are the codes that autozone pulled.

(MIND YOU THIS CAR HAD THE A-PILLAR GAUGE POD BUT IS NOW REMOVED)


  1. p0112 iat sensor
  2. p0118 engine coolant temp (could this be why my fan stays on high from the second i turn the car on?)
  3. p0135 i have mill elim that i built and they worked successfully on the t-red but guess i might haft to make some more
also my heater/ac fan does not blow what so ever. (well perhaps a severely faint blow lol) but nothing that's noticeable. WHATS UP WITH THAT?
 
well going off your codes I can see why your engine would be holding back. you have 2 sensors tripped that feed the pcm with info that effects timing and fuel. If your IAT sensor is bad then it isnt reading correct intake air temp. Also if your engine temp sensor is faulty and you have the IAT code as well your car is probably running with a lot of timing pulled. Which will give you the feeling of lost power.

As for the a/c heater blower. You might have a blown blower motor resistor. Although I would start simple and run test. Like check fuse, and check to see if you are getting power to the blower. But on my e1 I found a blower resistor that looked like it was set on fire. Resulting in no blower
 
will check into those issues as soon as i get back around the car. I sure didnt know that those two sensors could effect the car that much. darn thing feels like a sluggish 4 cylinder when i step on the gas.
 
you don't say what type of 3L it is. if its a ported 3L with secondaries they may not be working. But I would start with correcting the codes you have and go from there.
 
ok, if it was a full 3l then it had a tune in the previous car? was the tune or PCM transfered? Its not going to run right without the tune.
 
BrApple said:
ok, if it was a full 3l then it had a tune in the previous car? was the tune or PCM transfered? Its not going to run right without the tune.
Click to expand...

I saw the t-red this motor came out of but didn't see it run. I don't think it had a tune but from what Charles and OB1 said...... the car ran good without a tune before his tranny went out on the t-red.
 
that doesn't make any sense. a full 3l without a tune is going to be a dog under the imrc point. it needs a tune to remove the secondaries and bump the timing in the low rpm range.
 
BrApple said:
that doesn't make any sense. a full 3l without a tune is going to be a dog under the imrc point. it needs a tune to remove the secondaries and bump the timing in the low rpm range.
Click to expand...

I know it doesn't....I have rode in a full 3L without a tune and I know what your saying. Although Rexxydoggy's full 3L that Sam built has no tune, stock pre-cats, sho shop y-pipe and no main cat and still put down 194whp. So a full will run once you get past the secondaries. I think what Montrese is trying to figure out is why it ran better in the t-red. I'm assuming everything is the same in the silver car he has it in now.
 
and the winner goes to bgrogan01 :)........... I might do what brapple suggest and take the pcm out the red one. But to Brapple....

first setup out of t-red was

  • full 3l no tune
  • stock exhaust with gutted pre cats and main cat
  • optimized y-pipe
  • mill elims
  • final drive ratio swap to trans :)
2nd setup in silver

  • full 3l no tune
  • gutted pre cats and main cat BUT all going out of a single pipe instead of the normal two( dont know why)
  • optimized y-pipe
  • mill elims
  • stock trans :-(
also to note: this silver had a hybrid 3L untuned in it when car was purchased (it failed due to incorrect swapping of timing material)

also while its on my mind i know i'm pretty sure where the iat, and ect sensors are located but just for giggles. could some one take a pic of the area each one is in? PLZZZZ
 
A full 3L will run without a tune, assuming you hooked up the EGR and are running stock SVT injectors it might even idle ok. It will be very slow down low and then you'll get a good power jump when the secondaries are supposed to open.

Get a tune for it. Most of the full 3L's I built a while back gained a ton of hp and tq down low from a dyno tune.
 
the following pictures are taken from the driver side fender facing towards the passenger side of the car

is this the engine coolant temp sensor?
P1010148.jpg


and this fuse is blown, whats is for?
P1010147.jpg
 
the sensor is for the temp guage.

as for the fuse, not sure off hand. check your oweners manual. if you don't have one they are available for viewing online from Ford....
 
found out what my issue was about a week ago. i completely forgot i had put this thread up.......but just to close the thread out. It turned out my car was feeling sluggish b/c i had my cylinder 5 and 6 plugs mixed match
mad0228.gif


thanks for the suggestions tho gentlemen
 
Thats good....glad you got it fixed. Are you still selling it? You missed all the fun at OB1's yesterday.
 
i wanted to come but when i got up and seen it was raining so hard i fell back asleep lol. and i figured by the time i would have got out there yall would have been wrapping things up.

and nah for right now i'm not going to sell it b/c my mom needs a car to get back and forth to dialysis. so i'm going to let her use the black car while i tackle the silver one.
 
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