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2 Probs - Heat and Vibration

K

KennyT772

Veteran CEG'er
Joined
Jan 6, 2008
Messages
842
Problem No.1, my radiator fan does not kick on until very high engine temps (right line of normal bracket). Even then it is sporadic. I'm in michigan and until just a couple hours ago it has been in the mid 40s. The past couple days is when it has been the worst, obviously.

Also, I just recently replaced the engine coolant sensor, but I have no idea if it worked before I replaced it or not. I was trying to fix the dash gauge and have no idea what the engine ran before I swapped out the sensor.


Problem No.2, Dash/Steering Wheel vibration when in gear and stopped. My idle is around 550-600 and it feels as if the engine is idling low and unbalancing because of it. A toe on the throttle or taking it out of gear and the engine smooths out and sits about 700-800 rpm. Engine mounts all appear to be in good shape.
 
How close is left bottom of transmission to subframe? I had giant vibration at idle which went away as RPM increased. It was the transmission kitting the subframe in the area visible thru the LF wheel well at the bottom. New LF trans mount fixed it.

Mike
 
zetec tend to run hot, as long as it isn't going into the red and it isn't over heating don't worry about it to much. remember the temp guage is calibrated per say, since there are no numbers on it you can't really say what it is reading. if you are really concerned get a inferred thermometer and check the upper radiator hose and the hoses after the thermostat, they should be about the same at temp, if they are not then the thermostat might be stuck closed.

not sure about the vibration at idle, could be the iac but since it idles correctly in neutral or park I suspect that is ok.

when was the last time the fluid was changed? it should be done about every 30k since this atx doesn't like alot of heat ....
 
A common failure is of the fan low speed dropping resistor. When it opens, you loose low fan speed operation and only get high speed operation after the ECT senses another 10F degrees higher engine temperature.

You have two coolant sensors: One is used only by the gauge, the other is used by the PCM. Which one did you replace?

Steve
 
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BrApple Where is the IAC located and how can I test it?

ProjectSHO I have replaced both. I was trying to get the gauge working and replaced the pcm one first by mistake. Then I replaced the other and got the gauge working.

The resistor might be it, cuz the fan is always off other then when its redlinine and it kicks in full.
 
So the way to check would be a visual inspection of both sides to check for a blown mount?
 
KennyT772 said:
So the way to check would be a visual inspection of both sides to check for a blown mount?
Click to expand...
4 sides. The most obvious one is the tranny sitting on the subframe. If it is sitting on the subframe, you know the tranny to driver fender mount is broken.
 
Mount is going in tomorrow after I get outta school.

Does anyone know how I can check if the low speed radiator fan resistor is broken??
 
Mount is in and no more vibration on stop. I think I need to adjust the rest of my mounts though, the tranny did not want to bolt in as high as the new mount is.

Can anyone help me out on the heat issue??
 
Low Speed Fan Check

Low Speed Fan Check

Remove the black (high speed) and dark green (low speed) relays from the engine compartment fuse box. Do not mix them up, they are not interchangeable.

Observe the single socket terminal that is rotated 90 degrees from the other terminals in each of the sockets. That is the output pin for each relay.

Using your multimeter, check for a low resistance (less than 15 ohms) between these two points. If you measure an open circuit, the resistor is open.

The resistor is mounted to the lower portion of the radiator shroud and is a PITA to replace.

Steve
 
projectSHO89 said:
Remove the black (high speed) and dark green (low speed) relays from the engine compartment fuse box. Do not mix them up, they are not interchangeable.

Observe the single socket terminal that is rotated 90 degrees from the other terminals in each of the sockets. That is the output pin for each relay.

Using your multimeter, check for a low resistance (less than 15 ohms) between these two points. If you measure an open circuit, the resistor is open.

The resistor is mounted to the lower portion of the radiator shroud and is a PITA to replace.

Steve
Click to expand...
Thank you sir. I will check this out after school and report back.
 
projectSHO89 said:
Remove the black (high speed) and dark green (low speed) relays from the engine compartment fuse box. Do not mix them up, they are not interchangeable.

Observe the single socket terminal that is rotated 90 degrees from the other terminals in each of the sockets. That is the output pin for each relay.

Using your multimeter, check for a low resistance (less than 15 ohms) between these two points. If you measure an open circuit, the resistor is open.

The resistor is mounted to the lower portion of the radiator shroud and is a PITA to replace.

Steve
Click to expand...
Awesome Steve great easy way to test the resistor. I looked at the ETVM schematic, Now the $64K question what if anything on the ETVM tells you that's the terminal socket?? Or did have the BJB out and chased the wire colors from underneath?
10 years now and still don't trust myself with the ETVM schematics. Of course if the resistor is open down under you have go to the bottom of the middle fan or actually the fan that most central of radiator? For me it means removing the air damn cover or whatever it's called? It seems automotive electrical wiring is totally unique to all the other stuff I ever worked with. I've heard aviation techs complaining, Our stuff's simple compared to the automotive world. I mean looking at schematic is one thing but where all that is actually located on the chassis? There must be schooling and some other reference materials privy to the mechanics at least I how would hope?
Wooo!! Thank-you sooo much for sharing Steve your a true car buff friend!
Oh yeah I like this " R27 engine cooling fan resistor". Ok how about the value of the resistor? If I was a mechanic I'd feel slighted!
Both my resistors read .4 to .5 ohm at 15F I had jet engine style kerosene heater on for 10 minutes warmed it up abit.
 
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Just to be sure I measure between the two 90 degree posts of the two relays correct?

Edit- Tested the two 90 degree posts and got an open circuit. Where exactly is this resistor so I can get it replaced?
 
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If you look at the relays themselves you'll see all blades/terminals are oriented same except these two. On the BJB socket these slots are the furthest away from the outer edge of the BJB. I'm better at taking pictures than I'm with descriptions.
Easy test go to ground and look for voltage if you see battery voltage use the other large slots.
Resistor if you were the engine would be lower left (the fan closest to the battery). I can't possibitl reach mine from above but I've got the v-6 not sure what the on yours. The pic in the CD manual it must be mounted to the outside of the fan shroud.
 
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There has to a better place to mount the Resistor?

There has to a better place to mount the Resistor?

It's all ok until they start messing tranny oil cooler. So it actually sits on the inside of the shroud facing the radiator? I'm admit its a good place to keep it cool, however as many as have failed, might as well mount where it easily accessed, since burn up and open. That or get resistor of better quality.
I guess when it warms up I'll have to add this to my "to-do-list actually the round-to-it. I spent the last seceral days fixing/unclogging/ cutting and cleaning roots inside the main-hole where my 4"plastic sticks thru. That took twenty minutes the rest of the time working in the basement. Who would have though the plug was clear out at the other end????
I'm rather been working on this resistor thing!!!!! This is a small town and I built my own house 31 years ago and I was the first in then new allotment, so I was part of water and sewage line install. That and I could wait for village to get to their round-to-it list.
Never plant Maple or Oaks anywhere near your sewage drains, it will allow much more time being a car buff!!!
If anyone has a pic of a new resistor could send it to me? TNX
NEVER MIND in too big a hurry not sure where I read about the tranny cooling?
The 2.0L is simpler than the V-6 well sort-a!!!!!


1. Remove the battery. For additional information, refer to «Section 414-01».

2. Raise and support the vehicle. For additional information, refer to «Section 100-02».

µ 3. Remove the radiator splash shield.

µ 4. Detach the air conditioning accumulator and place to one side.

µ 5. Disconnect the fan resistor electrical connector.

6. Lower the vehicle.

µ 7. Disconnect the fan motor electrical connectors.

µ 8. Remove the wiring harness from the fan shroud.

µ 9. Remove the motor, fans and shroud assembly.

1 Remove the nuts.

2 Remove the assembly.
 
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Does anyone know where I can get one of these resistors? autozone/advance don't have the part.
 
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